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#1
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Block-transmission dowel removal, install
Have any of you guy replaced the block-transmission alignment dowels ?
What is involved in doing it. I could use some longer dowles, have them just need to remove and replace. Any help is appreciated. |
#2
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They make a dowel pin remover my machine shop has one. Had to put longer dowel pins in because of the mid plate
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#3
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Quote:
I removed some of them awhile back. I welded a bolt to the dowel, with the bolt head removed. I then just keep stacking washers over the dowels and tighten the nut on the bolt and out they came. You'll need a bunch of washers that will fit over the dowels.
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68 Firebird. IA2 block, 505 cu in, E-head, Solid roller 3650 weight. Reid TH400 4:11 gear. 29" slick. Best so far 10.12@133 mph. 1.43 60 ft. 76 Trans am, TKX .81 o/d, 3.73 Moser rearend, 468 with KRE D-ports, Doug headers, 3" Exh. |
#4
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I hobo'd a couple out: easier than it looks. Stilsen Pipe wrench?
Longer dowels were needed: 7/16? deep socket cut to length was used until i gto the longer dowels (4L80 vehicle?) |
#5
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#6
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On the SBC 383 I did three years ago, I was able to get on the front side (they are not in blind holes) and drive them out with a punch. DIdn't even put a mark on 'em.
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Jeff |
#7
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There are several ways I've used to remove them, none of which have been easy. IF, the engine is out of the car you can use a dowel pin puller if you have one. If the engines in the car it will hit the floor pan and you can't use it. Snap on makes one that will fit the GM dowel pin diameter, but it's pricey. Another option as mentioned is to weld a bolt on the end and then use a slid hammer or puller. Another is the cut a slot in the dowel and the stick a large flat nose screwdriver in the slot and pry it out. I've done quite a few Tremec swaps and you have to index the bellhousing by using offset dowel pins. It's my least favorite thing about the job!
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62' Lemans, Nostalgia Super Stock, 541 CI, IA2 block, billet 4.5" crank, Ross, Wide port Edelbrocks, Gustram intake, 2 4150 style BLP carbs, 2.10 Turbo 400, 9" w/4:30 gears, 8.76 @153, 3100lbs |
#8
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As mentioned, there are many ways to remove them. In the car, probably the easiest way is to drill and tap the pins with a 5/16-18 thread. You can generally get an angle drill in there pretty easy. After taped, use a socket over the pin and some washers or a small bearing and a bolt to draw the pin out. For replacement, I used the RobMac offset dowels for the first time. They are super easy to install and adjust when working with a stick bellhousing. If an auto trans, I would just use Moroso straight long pins. Put a little lube on them and drive them in.
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#9
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I used a die to thread the pins since I didn't have the room to drill. Used stack of washers and tightened a nut against them to pull out the pins.
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#10
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I have never seen it done that way but I like it. That's a large external thread? like 5/8"?
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#11
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This one wins. The Winner.
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#12
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Yes to the 5/8" die. I used a hexagonal shaped die and used a socket to screw that on. The exposed dowel ends are tapered, but it was still a bear to get started. I used a fine thread die.
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#13
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i found using my "stud remover" tool worked pretty easy...as you rotate the stud simply pry behind tool....took about 180* of rotation before dowels popped out.
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#14
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I drilled/tapped through the factory dowels and used a long bolt, washers and small socket to pull them out. They'd been in there since 1965, no chance they were coming out without massive butchery LOL
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'71 Holden HQ Monaro - 3850lbs race weight, 400c/i - 11.4 @ 120 '66 Pontiac GTO - 389, 4 speed street cruiser |
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