[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by Verdoro 68

Are digital read outs worth it?

How are your eyes?

I had no use for digital readouts until I hit 55 or so.

Now they're a real blessing. Fookin' bifocals.

I hadda buy a new 0--1 with liquid-crystal display just so I didn't need a magnifying glass.

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by Schurkey

How are your eyes?

I had no use for digital readouts until I hit 55 or so.

Now they're a real blessing. Fookin' bifocals.

I hadda buy a new 0--1 with liquid-crystal display just so I didn't need a magnifying glass.

I can still read the barrel vernier scales( with glasses) but the DROs make it so much easier. When I worked for JET most of our constant use mics were DROs.

[Verdoro 68]

Well, that happened fast. Nabbed a set of used Mitutoyo mics off eBay . As far as I can tell they have ratchet thimbles which I think I would prefer. A little over $200 for the set of 4 ranging from 0" to 4". Considering a new set of 4 is almost $500 I'm feeling alright about it.

My eyes are still holding up ok, but I'm probably due for a pair of readers soon.

[Skip Fix]

I have a ring breaker I bought from Sear in the 70s and never used until recently to take some rings OFF some pistons I bought used. I always worried about stretching them too much installing with it.

My probably Chinese mikes were good enough I could tell my Eagle 409 stroker crank had terrible journal taper! They do read right on the standards they came with. But I have the machine shop double check me when they are doing the final machining.

[Verdoro 68]

I moved on to shopping for dial bore indicators. Most of the inexpensive ones geared toward engine building are .0005. I’m assuming I’d want .0001 for more accuracy and one that could do cam, main and rod bearings? I’ve also been reading about how the cheaper gauges can mar bearings. Is that a concern?

Of course, all this is making me wonder if I should have just started with plastigauge but I enjoy learning about these tools and how to use them. Wish I could take a few of mgarblik’s classes.

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by Verdoro 68

I’ve also been reading about how the cheaper gauges can mar bearings. Is that a concern?

It is for me. Theoretically, you can pull the dial indicator apart, then replace the tension spring with a softer one. I've never done this. My machinist bought a cheap rod-bolt stretch gauge, then wanted a stiffer spring in his after using my ARP stretch gauge. I don't think he ever got around to that...he borrowed my ARP unit a few months ago.

Originally Posted by Verdoro 68

Wish I could take a few of mgarblik’s classes.

Maybe we can get him to post the syllabus, and the textbook name and ISBN. Who knows? Is the course available online, or via Zoom or some-such?

[mgarblik]

Not to hijack thread: I will start a new thread in about a month for anyone interested. It will highlight what our 1 year long course is about. I will post syllabus and some worksheets and class notes. I have never done anything like this on a forum, so have some patience. Thanks for the interest. Students over 55 years old who live in a multi-county area around Dayton Ohio can take the classes virtually for free with some lab fees. Class fills very fast. One of the areas best kept secrets. Sinclair College is a local tax supported state school. Next class starts August 23rd. It is filled with 5 on the waiting list.

[67Fbird]

numbers are all cool and stuff but there is also the "feel" to using a pr of mics and setting a dial bore gauge. Working within .0005 should be your goal WITH SOME PRACTICE. The average seasoned machinist is doubtful at +/-.0001 just due to the 100000 variable involved with measuring. Do you realize that the oil left behind from your fingerprint is typically .0001" thick?.... a sharpie marker is about .0003". I can put the BEST steel wrist pin in my hand in a 72* environmentally controlled shop and within 2 minutes make it .00015 BIGGER than when it is at 72 degrees. Your dealing with steel and aluminum, both are about as stable as a wet 2x4 in the sun. Don't get lost in the numbers....just understand what your numbers represent.

[Formulabruce]

Originally Posted by Formulas

reversable drill

Mandatory, IMHO.

[Verdoro 68]

Originally Posted by 67Fbird

numbers are all cool and stuff but there is also the "feel" to using a pr of mics and setting a dial bore gauge. Working within .0005 should be your goal WITH SOME PRACTICE. The average seasoned machinist is doubtful at +/-.0001 just due to the 100000 variable involved with measuring. Do you realize that the oil left behind from your fingerprint is typically .0001" thick?.... a sharpie marker is about .0003". I can put the BEST steel wrist pin in my hand in a 72* environmentally controlled shop and within 2 minutes make it .00015 BIGGER than when it is at 72 degrees. Your dealing with steel and aluminum, both are about as stable as a wet 2x4 in the sun. Don't get lost in the numbers....just understand what your numbers represent.

This post put things into perspective. I received my micrometers the other day, recalibrated/adjusted them against the standards and I've been practicing measuring stuff with known sizes (old valves, cranks, etc) and then double checking with my digital calipers to ensure I'm adding correctly. I generally have the hang of it and am confident that I'll be able to measure for oil clearances and such, but yeah...0001" is not a lot and easy to be a variable.

After I gained that perspective, I went ahead an ordered a .0005 bore dial gage.

Bonus - the set I got off eBay was previously owned by another Ken, or Kenny in this case, so my name came pre-engraved

[mgarblik]

Those MIC's look nice. The hardest part of getting that 4th digit is hitting the sweet spot on a cylindrical object. Pistons are the toughest because they are not round. So there is just one spot on the skirt that is the maximum diameter. I would start with lifters, easiest to measure, then valves and pushrods, then crank journals. Pistons and camshaft lobes are a challenge. Good luck.

[Verdoro 68]

My rotating assembly from Butler finally shipped and I think I'm ready for it.

Here's where I netted out on my tool cache for the build:

• Used set of Mitutoyo mics from eBay
• Titan connecting rod vise from Summit
• Performance Tool piston ring installer
• Summit piston ring filer
• Tapered ring compressor for 4.17 bore
• Total Seal ring squaring tool for 4.125 to 4.2 bore
• Fowler .0005 bore dial gauge
• Quinn 1/2" digital torque wrench from Harbor Freight
• Plastigauge to double check myself

I watched a bunch of torque wrench tests and reviews on YouTube and was surprised to see the HF Quinn hold it's own with the bigger names. Seemed like a good value, especially with $40 off as part of their parking lot sale. Grabbed it for $139.

Did some homework on bore dials and couldn't justify the expense of the bigger names so I went with the Fowler from Amazon. From trials on the old rods and bearings, dial bores definitely take some practice, but this one seems to do just fine.

[mgarblik]

Everything you have in the pic should get the job done for you. The only thing I see you might not be able to measure is the #3 housing bore and bearing clearance. Just not sure. It looks in the pic like the dial bore gauge might be a little too short to get to #3. I think you can get to 1,2 from the front and 5,4 from the rear. Possibly #3. Not a big deal either way. Enjoy your build.