[VCho455]

Interesting interview with Dave Chamberlain of Joe Gibbs Driven Oil.

Being aware that they have a monetary interest in the discussion I believe that there is information here of value and worth considering.

https://youtu.be/y8nAxtFcxAE?si=4gWE9zE2bSOZX0W1

[Tim Corcoran]

There are many ways to skin a cat and what is the best way depends on who you are talking to at the time. Just because something works for you doesn't mean there isn't a better way to do it.

[Tim Corcoran]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ObJMnlF0F3g

Interesting comment about Comp flat tappet cams in the towards the beginning of this video

[P@blo]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Just to say it out loud, the lubricant in assembly lube stays on the surface for some time, even if the 'carrier' gets almost immediately washed away. So thinking that it doesn't have an impact more than the fractions of a min oil reaches the assembly lube is incorrect.

What's the factor that causes the most engine wear? Initial startup. And that's through the life of the engine, not just the first startup.

Do you fill the oil filter when you do an oil change? Based on some mentalities, some would say it's not needed. Does it impact the life of an engine? It could make the difference between an engine that goes 100k miles and an engine that goes 300k miles. Same principal applies to assembly lube.

In almost every situation, there will be 'foreign matter' in a newly assembles engine. It might be fine enough of a material that won't cause immediate damage but can reduce the potential life of an engine (100k/300k).

If someone wants to avoid spending $10 on a bottle of assembly lube and just use oil or whatever, so be it, but can't deny there is no impact or risk.

STP as discussed here is an additive, and technically not a lubricant, also just to say it out loud. It may have some lubricants/properties in it, but not anywhere near what an assembly lube has. And because of how thick it is, it can actually prevent the lubricant properties of engine oil from reaching the surface.

'Professional' engine builders use assembly lubricants, 'general' mechanics in the field usually don't. Does it make a difference? You be the judge.


.

I wondered about using an oil accumulator and a solenoid valve to pressurize for start-up for that very reason. At some point there has to be cut off point and wear caused by my junk just sitting is probably more of a problem.

Tractor grease for cams out this way, never an issue. Well bad lifter QC but thats it.

[Ram Air IV Jack]

Originally Posted by Tim Corcoran

There are many ways to skin a cat and what is the best way depends on who you are talking to at the time. Just because something works for you doesn't mean there isn't a better way to do it.

True, but the internet is full of bilge, opinions from yahoo's, and generally about 75% to 80% inaccurate!! Cliff Ruggles speaks of this all the time and has seen many of his customers hornswoggled by supposed experts on the net. Moral of story, if something works for you, keep using it. Why listen to someone you don't know tell you otherwise? Now that makes no sense!!

[mgarblik]

Originally Posted by Ram Air IV Jack

True, but the internet is full of bilge, opinions from yahoo's, and generally about 75% to 80% inaccurate!! Cliff Ruggles speaks of this all the time and has seen many of his customers hornswoggled by supposed experts on the net. Moral of story, if something works for you, keep using it. Why listen to someone you don't know tell you otherwise? Now that makes no sense!!

I think there is always a chance to learn new, better, and different ways to do things. The key is to really verify the source of the information. Two quick examples. I have a student in class needing to degree the cams on a Honda V-tech engine. I was not familiar. So go to Youtube. Found three videos posted right away. Watched all three. One was totally wrong, everything from finding TDC to the process. Next one had some things incorrect in the procedure. The third one made sense, was correct in every process and worked perfect on the kid's engine. So you have to check multiple sources if your not sure of something and do what makes sense. Second example was how to use ARP lube properly. A few years ago ARP began recommending putting lube only on the side of the torquing washer that contacts the underside of the nut or bolt. The side of the washer that contacts the head or main cap do not lube. I had been lubricating both sides of the washers for 30+ years without any issue. I changed to the recommended method and the torque seems to be smoother and more consistent. Never too old to learn.

[Gach]

And some people know enough to be dangerous.

[tom s]

These threads are interesting,they pop up from time to time and NONE have ever influenced me to change what I have been doing for years and I’m sure a lot of others are the same?Tom

[tom s]

These threads are interesting,they pop up from time to time and NONE have ever influenced me to change what I have been doing for years and I’m sure a lot of others are the same?Tom

[Dragncar]

If you have a way of building your engines and it works for you its hard to just change because some internet thread.
These things are EXPENSIVE and time consuming. Lots at stake when you fire up a new build and you put it all together. Its all on you, lot of money flinging around.
Its like the .030 lifter bore restrictor deal. Some never run them and swear by it.
I have always ran them and never hurt a thing. So its hard to change with so much at stake and you know it works.

[Gach]

Well we read theses threads hoping to learn something new. Does it mean you’re going to change the way you’ve been doing it for years, what you’ve learned from the best.

[TA63]

Only thing I have to add is this. I know diesel 15-40 oil is popular here, and with owners of other classic cars. I've also seen Rotella t4 mentioned plenty of times. I'd encourage you all running t4 to consider switching to mobile delvac or chevron delo instead. I used to be a Rotella user, but experienced excessive consumption in a bunch if diesel engines ranging in size from 7 to 15.2 liters. I switched to chevron delo and not only was consumption cut nearly in half across the board, but wear metals in my oil samples.were reduced by on average 30%. I had one of my drivers come to me and ask what I had done because he no longer needed to add oil to the cat c15 in that particular rig between changes. I have since learned that there's been a shift away from Rotella by many other outfits as well because of the reasons mentioned.

[Tim Corcoran]

Originally Posted by TA63

Only thing I have to add is this. I know diesel 15-40 oil is popular here, and with owners of other classic cars. I've also seen Rotella t4 mentioned plenty of times. I'd encourage you all running t4 to consider switching to mobile delvac or chevron delo instead. I used to be a Rotella user, but experienced excessive consumption in a bunch if diesel engines ranging in size from 7 to 15.2 liters. I switched to chevron delo and not only was consumption cut nearly in half across the board, but wear metals in my oil samples.were reduced by on average 30%. I had one of my drivers come to me and ask what I had done because he no longer needed to add oil to the cat c15 in that particular rig between changes. I have since learned that there's been a shift away from Rotella by many other outfits as well because of the reasons mentioned.

I have a Duramax Diesel in my truck and have been using Rotella T4. I really appreciate you posting this information I will be switching to Chevron Delo. I just learned something new.

I saw this on the Chevon site, it says the Delo 400 SDE is discontinued and has been replaced by Delo 400 XLE B which is a synthetic blend? Which Delo 15/40 did you change your fleet to? Chevron has several Delo 15-40 diesel oils, there is ADF, XSP, XLE and SDE.

https://www.chevronlubricants.com/en...ae-15w-40.html

[TA63]

Originally Posted by Tim Corcoran

I have a Duramax Diesel in my truck and have been using Rotella T4. I really appreciate you posting this information I will be switching to Chevron Delo. I just learned something new.

I saw this on the Chevon site, it says the Delo 400 SDE is discontinued and has been replaced by Delo 400 XLE B which is a synthetic blend? Which Delo 15/40 did you change your fleet to? Chevron has several Delo 15-40 diesel oils, there is ADF, XSP, XLE and SDE.

https://www.chevronlubricants.com/en...ae-15w-40.html

No problem at all. I know oil choices are almost a religion to some folks, but i wanted to share my experience. I initially switched to the SDE when I decided to try an alternative to rotella, and that ls when I realized it's advantages. We now run the synthetic blend as it allows us to extend our drain intervals by about 50%, which is a decent time and money saver when you have a significant number of engines running all the time. With the switch, consumption has remained steady, and wear metals have as well. I've become a big proponent of oil sampling on high dollar engines, and I do so every other change. It can detect issues in the early stages, such as an oil cooler or head gasket that's on its way out.

[Formulajones]

Just another example where an oil analysis pays dividends. No one can truly know what their oil is doing for them without one.

[grandam1979]

We just ran a 68 r/a II engine we assembled on the test stand using VR1 and Lucas break in all went well have cut open 2 filters 1 after cam break in 1 after playing with a couple carbs when engine was on test stand.

[PunchT37]

I wonder if any engine is finished breaking in after 20 to 30 minutes?

[grandam1979]

We did the 20-30 minute 2000 rpm break in did some playing around and actually did the 20 minute run again. Next run will be on the dyno.

[geeteeohguy]

Didn't read every post, but I'll say that when breaking in a cam be SURE to NOT use detergent oil. Use break-in oil ONLY. Not racing oil. Not diesel oil. Break in oil. We used to simply use non-detergent 30 weight that was the cheapest. Probably not available today.
Detergents in pretty much ALL oils except break-in oil will remove the lube from the cam and lifters quickly and render them useless for the cam break-in. And, NOT changing the oil after the cam break-in is false economy. My method is a 20-30 minute cam break in, dump the oil and filter, fill with normal fill, run about 500 miles, dump oil and filter again, and good to go. I've been using Rotella diesel spec in all my flat tappet engines for the past 23 years with no issues. The '65 has about 55,000 miles on the cam and lifters and the '67 has about 90,000 miles on the cam and lifters. No issues. Both broken in with non-detergent oil. But to be fair, in the '80's when parts quality was decent.

[tom s]

I have engine on my run stand right now,builder put in 20-50,not my pic,it will be out the moment he leaves my garage.Tom