[Greg Reid]

So, actually in the end, it really was an issue with the Ign.1 and Ign.2 not both being present.
Think about it, if you had 12 volts in both key positions and it still did not run, the switch and all the ignition wiring were doing their jobs...The problem would have to have been something totally unrelated.
Glad you found it and now you know all about HEI, IGN1 and IGN2...

[nytrainer]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

So, actually in the end, it really was an issue with the Ign.1 and Ign.2 not both being present.
Think about it, if you had 12 volts in both key positions and it still did not run, the switch and all the ignition wiring were doing their jobs...The problem would have to have been something totally unrelated.
Glad you found it and now you know all about HEI, IGN1 and IGN2...

Without a schematic I could only surmise the problem was in those ign 1 & 2 branch circuits somewhere and only could assume it was somewhere in the wiring to the coil or at the switch terminals. What threw me off the trail initially was the “potential” voltage (12vdcj I originally read with key on but the circuit would open and/or have such a huge voltage drop (because of the failing solder joint) the coil would drop out and engine stop when the key returned from start to run position.
Thanks again all.

[Greg Reid]

The big clue is the classic symptom, it tries to run when the key is in the start position but as soon as you release, it goes dead. It's a very common issue when we change to HEI. Ask me how I know.
If it's the other way around, ie. voltage present only in 'run', sometimes you can get it to start because when you release the key, it gets fire. If the engine is still spinning just enough, it might start.

[nytrainer]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

The big clue is the classic symptom, it tries to run when the key is in the start position but as soon as you release, it goes dead. It's a very common issue when we change to HEI. Ask me how I know.
If it's the other way around, ie. voltage present only in 'run', sometimes you can get it to start because when you release the key, it gets fire. If the engine is still spinning just enough, it might start.

Good to know if/when I put original distributor back in. Only thing stopping me is it runs great with HEI and I’d have to put resistor wire back in (or use ballast resistor I suppose?).

[Greg Reid]

Yeah, if you go back to points, you are supposed to drop that voltage back down on the 'run' side. Typically about 9 volts if I recall..

[Bill Hanlon]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

Yeah, if you go back to points, you are supposed to drop that voltage back down on the 'run' side. Typically about 9 volts if I recall..

9 or so with the points closed, battery voltage when the points are open.