[slowbird]

The thrust bearing was taken out on your GP so while the engine was out we examined why #3 intake rocker wasn't getting much oil at all. Turns out at lifter band is different from the other 15 lifters. Good quality control. Guess I/we need to really examine every individual part before installing.

[steve25]

Nice find!

Goes to show how you can never take anything for granted that it’s made right!

Which way is correct in terms of the placement of the oil hole?

[slowbird]

Left one is correct. Bottom of oil band is also higher and I believe it blocks the oil hole more due to that.

[PAUL K]

I had a wide-port engine come through my shop for a freshen up. It used Crower offset solid roller lifters. The owner had purchased them new and recently sent them to Crower for a rebuild and inspection. When I was running the completed engine on our test stand we realized the #5 intake rocker was running dry. We pulled the lifter for inspection and found the oil transfer slot going from the band the oil hole was machined about 90% of the way and stopped. Once we connected the slot it oiled the rocker arm like it's supposed to.

We are the QC department for these companies!

[slowbird]

This hobby is going to crap.
Quality parts don't exist and you pay out the nose for crap that doesn't work

[geeteeohguy]

I've been double-checking parts for about 10 years now, with high failure rates. Started with ignition parts and morphed to everything else. The rubber today is super bad. Better off re-using 50 year old shift boots and ball joint boots, body bushings, etc. The new stuff disintegrates in less than a year.

[tjs72lemans]

Isn't that the truth. I had restored my 46 Willys Jeep and the rubber shift boot started cracking and showing holes in about two years. This is garaged, covered and driven very little. My 55 Chevy I restored, the tie rod ends with the rubber covers started splitting and about ready to come off after a few years. Again, garaged, covered and driven very little.

[geeteeohguy]

Originally Posted by tjs72lemans

Isn't that the truth. I had restored my 46 Willys Jeep and the rubber shift boot started cracking and showing holes in about two years. This is garaged, covered and driven very little. My 55 Chevy I restored, the tie rod ends with the rubber covers started splitting and about ready to come off after a few years. Again, garaged, covered and driven very little.

We installed new tie rod end boots and ball joint boots on a '67 GTO we were restoring. While the car sat in the shop waiting for the engine for 6 months, when we went to install it, we noticed the rubber laying on the shop floor from the boots. Not driven one foot. Never outside. We ended up cleaning the 45 year old original stuff and re-installing it. 12 years later, still fine. Same car had the polyurethane upper control arm bushings disintegrate in 150 miles/ a few months after we installed them. Went back to NOS rubber stuff.

[Gach]

You’ve got to check everything with a fine tooth comb, taking one or two out of the box and checking taking for granted that the rest of them are fine. Not good. Especially in this day and age. A set of Iskey off set roller lifters all looked great. Couple months later assembling the motor, there was no way with the tie bars on they would fit in the block ! Turns out the tie bar where for SBC sit up. Of course they made good, but hours on phone and 3 weeks later I finally got correct tie bars.