[Tim Corcoran]

I need assistance to find out why I have so much free play on my shifter. It has so much slop I can't even get it into 1st gear no matter how I adjust it. There is no play at the trans and no play at the shifter. The slop is within the cable itself but why? Do I need a new cable? Thanks

[Verdoro 68]

I just put a new cable on mine. I'd still call it loose by modern standards, but it's better. I have all gears - but I had to adjust it exactly right. After futzing with it for a while and getting frustrated, I came to the conclusion that I needed to drill an additional hole on the cable at the trans end. That gave me enough leverage to get both Park and 1st.

[Tim Corcoran]

The cable I have in my 67 LeMans with the dual gate doesn't have a threaded end it has the slotted hole on the shift lever like Ken has as shown in the picture. Thanks for sending the picture and I like the idea of drilling a new hole in the cable end, thanks for your response.

Look at the photo of the shifter cable and lever on my 65 LeMans, it has an after market shifter and I think the cable came with the shifter. I think it's a better cable and better design. The shift lever just has a 3/8" hole and the cable end has a clevis with a 3/8" pin on the threaded cable end and provides lots of adjustment and almost no slop in the cable. Maybe I can find a cable like this and the correct shifter arm to go with it. The OEM style cable that Ames sells has so much slop in it.

[Formulajones]

I moved to using these cables from Shiftworks

https://shiftworks.com/collections/c...30-shift-cable

They are infinitely adjustable with threaded sleeves on both ends as well as the normal adjustments you have at your eyelet connections. I've made them work on His/Her shifters with and without overdrives and they can be ordered in different lengths. They've also worked great for me on other types of shifters.

There are also some really good videos out there on these cables showing their construction and why they work so much smoother than other stuff on the market. You can literally bend these things in a severe "S" shape (sometimes required on some installs) and they work perfectly smooth.

[Tim Corcoran]

Formula, thanks for the great resource from shiftworks it looks like a great cable I am sure this would work great and solve my issue. I have a TH-400 and Hurst Quarter Stick in my 65 LeMans bracket car I know this works and I like the way it is adjustable with the threaded clevis on the threaded cable end. After doing some research I will be using the same setup with my dual gate I have listed the parts below.

Cable: Hurst 5000023
Clevis: Hurst 1940005
Lever: Hurst 1050180

I am very disappointed with the cable that Ames has for the 67 Dual Gate mainly because of the excessive play within the cable makes it very difficult to use.

[HWYSTR455]

Shiftworks cables are the best. I had a graveyard of cables after doing the 442.

.

[Holeshot71]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

I moved to using these cables from Shiftworks

https://shiftworks.com/collections/c...30-shift-cable

They are infinitely adjustable with threaded sleeves on both ends as well as the normal adjustments you have at your eyelet connections. I've made them work on His/Her shifters with and without overdrives and they can be ordered in different lengths. They've also worked great for me on other types of shifters.

There are also some really good videos out there on these cables showing their construction and why they work so much smoother than other stuff on the market. You can literally bend these things in a severe "S" shape (sometimes required on some installs) and they work perfectly smooth.

Wow thanks for the info on this! I’m also using a ‘68 Dual Gate shifter and wasn’t aware there is actually a good aftermarket cable that works out there.

Here’s something I’ve found with these shifters. When the cable is adjusted and working correctly you should be able to put It into drive on the non-gated side, then push the shifter forward into neutral, then back in to drive. If it does this repeatedly without any slop and and you you can feel the detents it should be working/adjusted correctly.

[HWYSTR455]

You may want to also ensure you have the correct shaft paw on the trans. They control the amount of travel on the shaft which if not correct, well, you get the idea.


.

[Tim Corcoran]

I get that but my problem is strictly due to way too much slop in the cable.

[gokitty]

There is a rubber ribbed cover behind the linkage in the picture above. What is it called? Mine has dry rotted and I need to find a replacement. Thanks!

[Formulajones]

That's just a dust boot, and I've never seen them sold separately. They also have more of a permanent style crimp clamp holding them on, they aren't technically intended to be replaced. Least not on the examples I've had in my hands.

[dataway]

From my experience installing them the only thing that can really cause slop in the cable itself is if the jacket is compressing. Inner cable is a heavy steel wire, so it's not compressing or stretching to any degree. If the outer jacket is compressing, or has too much inside clearance to the steel cable it can allow the cable to have a bit of slop.

Must keep in mind that the shift lever on a Dual Gate is not connected directly to the cable, it goes through several pieces of linkage in the shifter, all of which are subject to wear, all of which usually have slop in them if they are original.

The shift lever has its own spring mechanism that keeps it feeling "tight" so it doesn't rattle around, this can easily fool you into thinking there is no slop in the shifter, but if you actually look closely with the console off at the amount the shift lever moves before it moves the shifter side of the cable you might be surprised.

A lot of the Dual Gates I've had hands on needed the linkage pins replaced, washers added etc. to remove enough slop to make them shift properly.

[Greg Reid]

Years ago when I replaced my DG cable, I couldn't get it to go into the Low-1 position (Or was it Park?)... Whichever position requires the inner cable to extend out the furthest from the shield. The inner was too flimsy and not stiff enough to force the shift lever.
Finally, complained to Ames about it and got a refund. At the time they offered two levels of cable quality. I replaced the cheaper one with the factory quality one and no issues since. Probably been close to 20 years ago.
Not sure if they still offer both types or not but if they do just get off of that dime and buy the better one. It had GM packaging.

[dataway]

Exactly the cable I used after studying pictures of the nice one compared to the cheaper one.

I "think" the OEM cables are still available ... at least they were a few years ago.

[Tim Corcoran]

I ordered the Shiftworks cable and the guy recommended I get the 32" cable instead of the 30 inch because I have a dual gate shifter. It is a better cable than the OEM one and cost less. Don't get a cheap aftermarket cable as they are junk and they have excessive slop and not enough travel and you won't be able to get park and low gear.