[lust4speed]

Called ARP and they don't have a kit for the IA2 aluminum block running the early style Edelbrock heads. There are two normal stud kits they advertise, one for early and one for later style heads. Both of these kits set the bolt threads 1" into the block which is good for iron blocks, but leave a lot to be desired on the aluminum block. Hole depth on the aluminum block looks to be 1.9", which would easily support 1.75" thread engagement. We are using a set of Ford 1/2" studs for honing with the torque plate since we can use spacers to make up for excess bolt length, but I would like to have a set that really fits the block.

I was going to call Butler today to see what they use, but time got away from me. It's a Friday night, so looking at Monday now before I can call them -- so figured I'd see what others have done to get enough stud length.

[77 TRASHCAN]

I agree w/ your thinking 1" ain't enough...A Real machinist friend gave me a rule of thumb for thread engagement...
Steel 1X bolt dia.
Iron 1.5X bolt dia.
Alum 2.5X bolt dia.

[Darren 639]

Does anybody know any reason why this one stud would be different ? It is for my IA2 aluminum block. They have about 1/2” longer reach to go deeper. bought these from a member a while ago but didn’t open the package till now. maybe the person had lost one and replaced it rather than selling me 19. Thank you

[lust4speed]

Safe to say that if a shorter stud was required there would be two of them - one for each head.

Just about every make and model aluminum head uses different stud lengths. There was nothing available for my first generation Edelbrock heads and we had to pick and choose from open stock. Even then, I ended up having to use steel bushings for spacers on some where the correct length simply wasn't available. That was almost eight years ago and the spacers are still working out fine.

I'd stick them in place and check the heights with the head dropped on. Even a current set of Edelbrocks has quite a few different lengths required. Studs give you a little more latitude in fitment than bolts, but you won't know until you check.

[mgarblik]

It looks to me like that 1 stud is an odd ball that probably doesn't belong. I say this because the other 19 studs have a bullet nose end which would be correct for an aluminum block application and the one odd one doesn't. If it's long enough to work, I would grind a little bullet nose on the end and use it. If it's too short, well you need a longer one. Darren 639, I just re-read your post. If you want to use that kit and the 20 studs, I would drop a steel ball bearing in the one hole that odd stud is going into. That will raise the stud and give it something to bear against in the aluminum block. I feel that would work fine and not give you any issue as long as their is plenty of thread engagement. Those bullet nose studs for aluminum blocks I torque into the block 10ft. lbs or so. In iron blocks, I let the studs float. Different builders have various methods they like.

[Skip Fix]

The guys at IA told me they did have a separate length they sold for the aluminum blocks-maybe more thread engagement?. At that time they were waiting an ARP for them-and that E heads and High Ports use the same kit they use. Probably 6 months ago.

[AG]

I just got a set of from Allpontiac made by ARP for my Ali block. Get ready for sticker shock at $320 shipped, but they have the extra thread engagement into the block.

[Darren 639]

OK thank you reason why I ask is I did notice the front main stud from all Pontiac has a groove in it. I actually marked that one to make sure I don’t block the oil feed hole even though the oil hole I probably won’t be using without a power adder. Still can work for oil temp

[PAUL K]

We helped Frank at AP design a kit for the first design heads. Call Frank he should be able to help you.

[GTOGEORGE]

Originally Posted by PAUL K

We helped Frank at AP design a kit for the first design heads. Call Frank he should be able to help you.

You should have had them made from ARP2000!



GTO George

[Scott Roberts]

Originally Posted by AG

I just got a set of from Allpontiac made by ARP for my Ali block. Get ready for sticker shock at $320 shipped, but they have the extra thread engagement into the block.

Paid 450 for a set for an LS... don't feel bad...

[PAUL K]

Originally Posted by GTOGEORGE

You should have had them made from ARP2000!



GTO George

We wanted to use as many of the studs that Frank already stocks from his other kits. I believe two lengths needed to be changed and one stud double washered if the heads were milled more than .060. That way we were able to use all existing ARP part numbers and not pay for a custom length stud.

[mgarblik]

Originally Posted by PAUL K

We wanted to use as many of the studs that Frank already stocks from his other kits. I believe two lengths needed to be changed and one stud double washered if the heads were milled more than .060. That way we were able to use all existing ARP part numbers and not pay for a custom length stud.

That's the only smart way to get the job done now. Especially with the extreme backorder situation at ARP. Before COVID custom length studs/bolts were a 4 month average wait time. Now, I bet they are a year out or more for custom short run parts. Grinding the ends down, or adding washers is really your only choice and not a big issue. Many times we have called ARP and just gone down a list of everything they have on the shelf to use or modify and get the job done. They have an accurate on the shelf inventory you can work with. FYI, when grinding a few threads off an ARP stud for length, I recommend installing a hardened nut first, then using this nut to de-burr the final ground thread with removal. You will kill a typical machinist die running it over an ARP hardened stud. Also, you will remove material since the studs are rolled and not cut. It's a bad deal all around. ARP specifically says never use dies on their studs.

[GTOGEORGE]

Originally Posted by PAUL K

We wanted to use as many of the studs that Frank already stocks from his other kits. I believe two lengths needed to be changed and one stud double washered if the heads were milled more than .060. That way we were able to use all existing ARP part numbers and not pay for a custom length stud.

Would’ve been nice to have a better set of studs, 8740 seem to stretch.
ARP2000 work better.

GTO George

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by GTOGEORGE

Would’ve been nice to have a better set of studs, 8740 seem to stretch.
ARP2000 work better.

GTO George

They either stretch or they do not. Its not like you could not easily measure it.

[Richie Hoffman]

got my studs form aluminum block with early Eheads thru PaulK

[GTOGEORGE]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

They either stretch or they do not. Its not like you could not easily measure it.

Yes they stretch!


GTO George

[AG]

All bolt/stud materials have a set stretch/inch value which determines the proper torque value (approximate). The tensile strength determines the proper material for the application.

[GTOGEORGE]

My ARP2000 don't.


GTO George

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by GTOGEORGE

My ARP2000 don't.


GTO George

Yes they do. All bolts stretch with tq. ARP 2000 7/16 rod bolts have a stretch number from Molnar.
A 1/2" ARP main stud also stretches . Its called clamp force. Engineers have calculations for such things.
https://www.securitylocknut.com/how-...ly-calculated/

Measure a main stud. Take a main cap by itself and put a ARP 2000 main stud in a inner hole. Nut on both ends and torque it. Then measure.
There is your bolt stretch.