[blueghoast]

You guy's aren't reading the early posts, it was a different carb for the E-85
and the plugs and AFR looked fine with the different carb on the E-85 thats why I didn't
do any jet changes. on the other fuels the motor made best power @37*
I found out why I was down on power from 3-years ago, It stated eating up
the rod bearings well only two and I don't know why yet we are still checking
what the problem might be I droped the rotating assm off this morning.
Man I'm just having some real bad luck this go-a-round. when I find the
problem I'll post it here. The mains look brand new still.

GT

[grandville455]

Originally Posted by blueghoast

You guy's aren't reading the early posts, it was a different carb for the E-85
and the plugs and AFR looked fine with the different carb on the E-85 thats why I didn't
do any jet changes. on the other fuels the motor made best power @37*
I found out why I was down on power from 3-years ago, It stated eating up
the rod bearings well only two and I don't know why yet we are still checking
what the problem might be I droped the rotating assm off this morning.
Man I'm just having some real bad luck this go-a-round. when I find the
problem I'll post it here. The mains look brand new still.

GT

You don't recall what the AFR was with the E 85 carb u borrowed? Just curious what u were seeing with it

[grandville455]

Originally Posted by blueghoast

You guy's aren't reading the early posts, it was a different carb for the E-85
and the plugs and AFR looked fine with the different carb on the E-85 thats why I didn't
do any jet changes. on the other fuels the motor made best power @37*
I found out why I was down on power from 3-years ago, It stated eating up
the rod bearings well only two and I don't know why yet we are still checking
what the problem might be I droped the rotating assm off this morning.
Man I'm just having some real bad luck this go-a-round. when I find the
problem I'll post it here. The mains look brand new still.

GT

You don't recall what the AFR was with the E 85 carb u borrowed Or the BSFC? Just curious what u were seeing with it

[blueghoast]

Originally Posted by grandville455

You don't recall what the AFR was with the E 85 carb u borrowed? Just curious what u were seeing with it

No I don't I'm going to give them a call and see if he's still got the information but I doubt it.
Figured out the problem on the bearing issue.. To lite of an oil that I was
using. I ran 5-quarts of conventional 10W30 with 2-quarts of 20-50.racing oil
Just not enough cushion for the bearings and I turn down the oil pressure
from 80-psi to 60-psi. going back to 80-psi on this motor and check clearances
when I get the assembly home.
The crank is now standard main- .010 on the rods and I will run a racing oil
from here on out. A lesson learned for me here. your never to old to learn.
I will try the E-85 again sometime later.

GT

[Dragncar]

What did you see that makes you think its too light of oil ?
What kind of main bearings are you using and did you line up the oil hole on the tab side of the bearing ?
Reason I ask is, not having them line up is not going to effect the mains. It will effect the rods at high RPM.
Its a old Whitmore trick he told me.
I have always done this and never had a rod or main bearing issue. Ran a 60lb pump in a 455 for years.
Lots of folks run 10-30 with 60lb pumps and do not have problems.

[blueghoast]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

What did you see that makes you think its too light of oil ?
What kind of main bearings are you using and did you line up the oil hole on the tab side of the bearing ?
Reason I ask is, not having them line up is not going to effect the mains. It will effect the rods at high RPM.
Its a old Whitmore trick he told me.
I have always done this and never had a rod or main bearing issue. Ran a 60lb pump in a 455 for years.
Lots of folks run 10-30 with 60lb pumps and do not have problems.

Not sure what you mean line up oil in tabs?
Runing a race ingine with .0025 rod clearance and .0032 mains, 60lbs pump
and comventional 10w30 oil doesn't give enough cusion for the bearings
That was the first thing my machinest ask is what WT oil was I using. I here people saying they run lighter
oils all the time but there not racing there motors like this one see's The main's are clevite rod's are king.

GT

[Dragncar]

The block has 3 holes that intersect on the mains. Of those 3 holes the one that gets the :shot" of oil is the hole on the "tab" side.
All my engines I drill a hole right through the main bearing in those locations . Then take a jewlers file and de bur.
Its a old Dan Whitmore trick. He said if its not done your rods (6 and 4, maybe 2 ?) get starved of oil at high RPM.
The Clevite style bearings are the worst with their round oil hole. Oil hits the back of the bearing, moves over and goes on through. Make it a straight shot.
FM Race bearings with their slot are a little better but I drill them too.
I have never hurt a main or rod bearing doing this.

[blueghoast]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

The block has 3 holes that intersect on the mains. Of those 3 holes the one that gets the :shot" of oil is the hole on the "tab" side.
All my engines I drill a hole right through the main bearing in those locations . Then take a jewlers file and de bur.
Its a old Dan Whitmore trick. He said if its not done your rods (6 and 4, maybe 2 ?) get starved of oil at high RPM.
The Clevite style bearings are the worst with their round oil hole. Oil hits the back of the bearing, moves over and goes on through. Make it a straight shot.
FM Race bearings with their slot are a little better but I drill them too.
I have never hurt a main or rod bearing doing this.

OK I remember seeing this before. Great idea for sure, think I'll do this
on the motor while it's down. Thanks.

GT

[Skip Fix]

I never have understood why the bearing manufacturers don't make the bearing hole coincide with the main feed hole there -or slot it to encompass both holes.

[grandville455]

Originally Posted by blueghoast

Not sure what you mean line up oil in tabs?
Runing a race ingine with .0025 rod clearance and .0032 mains, 60lbs pump
and comventional 10w30 oil doesn't give enough cusion for the bearings
That was the first thing my machinest ask is what WT oil was I using. I here people saying they run lighter
oils all the time but there not racing there motors like this one see's The main's are clevite rod's are king.

GT

I've been running ,003 on my rods and .0032 or so also on my IA2, and that's all i use is 10/30, and i've spun it to 7500 a few times lol, never no issue when i've pulled the bearings,60 psi pump also
My stock block 468 we ran same clearances with 5/30 with different rods, now using molnar rods, its in the little details that make them live!

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by blueghoast

OK I remember seeing this before. Great idea for sure, think I'll do this
on the motor while it's down. Thanks.

GT

Its kind of a pain to do but IMO worth it. Might as well get everything as good as you can make it. Just labor and TLC.
I also always do the P Dude thrust bearing mod.

[blueghoast]

Originally Posted by grandville455

I've been running ,003 on my rods and .0032 or so also on my IA2, and that's all i use is 10/30, and i've spun it to 7500 a few times lol, never no issue when i've pulled the bearings,60 psi pump also
My stock block 468 we ran same clearances with 5/30 with different rods, now using molnar rods, its in the little details that make them live!

Do you use a racing oil or is it just conventional oil. I know racing oil give's
A little more cushion than regular oil does. Thanks to every one for your
information as your never to old to learn something new.

GT

[slowbird]

Originally Posted by grandville455

I've been running ,003 on my rods and .0032 or so also on my IA2, and that's all i use is 10/30, and i've spun it to 7500 a few times lol, never no issue when i've pulled the bearings,60 psi pump also
My stock block 468 we ran same clearances with 5/30 with different rods, now using molnar rods, its in the little details that make them live!

I'm. 003 on rods and .0035-.0037 on main and run 5w 20 and spin to 9000rpm. Bearing looked almost new after 2 seasons. I'm not recommending it but we did it.

[grandville455]

Originally Posted by blueghoast

Do you use a racing oil or is it just conventional oil. I know racing oil give's
A little more cushion than regular oil does. Thanks to every one for your
information as your never to old to learn something new.

GT

Kendall

[tom s]

Where did cushion come from?Tom

[blueghoast]

Originally Posted by tom s

Where did cushion come from?Tom

Racing oil has more of a cushion then conventional oil does not to mention all the other additives in the racing oil's

GT

[tom s]

I have never heard of cushion with oil,the oil flos and cool and lubricates the bearing keeping metal from being against metal.Something new for me.Thanks,Tom

[Tim Corcoran]

I haven't taken the time to read completely through this thread so forgive me if this has already been posted. You say oil is spraying out the seal. That is unusual as when these seals leak I have never heard of one that leaked like that. Could this be due to excess pressure in the crankcase due to inadequate venting? My 455 engine is in the 650 HP range. I don't run a vacuum pump but I have a header evac system that works well. My BOP rear main seal has a slight drip it has for years but it not an issue. How is your engine vented?

[blueghoast]

Originally Posted by Tim Corcoran

I haven't taken the time to read completely through this thread so forgive me if this has already been posted. You say oil is spraying out the seal. That is unusual as when these seals leak I have never heard of one that leaked like that. Could this be due to excess pressure in the crankcase due to inadequate venting? My 455 engine is in the 650 HP range. I don't run a vacuum pump but I have a header evac system that works well. My BOP rear main seal has a slight drip it has for years but it not an issue. How is your engine vented?

You know that's been bugging me also. I didn't glue all the way under the
seal just the two spot's under each one (Two Piece BOP Seal) I can only
think that it was pushing oil under the seal and flinging from the flywheel.
But it must have a great deal of pressure to spry that much oil out.
I run two PCV valves from baffled valve covers to the back of the intake.
I think at around 6000 rpm's the pressure build's and blows past the seal.
I have everything to install a vacume pump exp for the correct mandrell.
The pcv works ok in the car but code be better, so I'll have to get it right.

GT

[Tim Corcoran]

Originally Posted by blueghoast

You know that's been bugging me also. I didn't glue all the way under the
seal just the two spot's under each one (Two Piece BOP Seal) I can only
think that it was pushing oil under the seal and flinging from the flywheel.
But it must have a great deal of pressure to spry that much oil out.
I run two PCV valves from baffled valve covers to the back of the intake.
I think at around 6000 rpm's the pressure build's and blows past the seal.
I have everything to install a vacume pump exp for the correct mandrell.
The pcv works ok in the car but code be better, so I'll have to get it right.

GT

It's not recommended to glue around the BOP seal. Wade only recommends a small dab at the parting lines of the cap and where the ends meet. He even says it's not required to put silicone in the anti-rotation holes although he says it optional. Usually the leak is past the lip where it rides on the crank. Even with a proper functioning PCV system you still need to have at least one vented valve cover to allow pressure to escape. I think there is either a serious problem with how the seal is fitting, or too much pressure in the crank case. I suspect the latter. Good luck