[Formulas]

I had a stint where my 70 bird had shorter than normal battery life turned out to be bad alternator internals, a diode stays engaged or something to that effect after key is off slowly draining the battery and after so many deep cycles they give up

[R 70 Judge]

I’ve always used Northstar Pro AGM batteries but they have since been bought out by Odyssey. You’ll need to check the fitment but the Odyssey extreme group 31 is pretty much baddest battery around. 1150 CCA. I have no idea if it will fit in your car though.

I plan on putting an Odyssey extreme group 31 in the trunk of my TA. I’m running a coil near plug EFI set-up, dual 460lph fuel pumps, along with a Holley 6.86” dash and 4K rear view mirror.


Check out this page from Summit Racing https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ody-31-pc2150s

[glenn911]

Advance tried that crap with me on last battery I got for the '74. It was on shelf for 1.5 years. I said I want one of the ones with a newer date. They said they don't normally do that and acted like they were doing me a favor or something. Go to walmart they are good batteries, cheaper, and don't sit that long cause they sell so many.

[Lee]

XS Power and Braille make some amazingly powerful AGM batteries, and shockingly small. The XS Power S925 will easily crank over probably any street motor on this board, with ease, and is only about 25 pounds.

CCA is a rating for 30 seconds of cranking at zero-degrees F. Not a common situation for most of us? The XS Power S925, under normal conditions, provide more starting power than a 1,000cca lead-acid battery.

[Schurkey]

There's two dozen ways to kill a battery, and one way to keep them functioning for their entire expected service life. EVERYTHING in the charging/starting system has to be working properly, including the wire harness that connects it together, AND you have to eliminate parasitic draws. The battery needs to be properly secured in the battery tray, terminal corrosion kept in check, and--depending on the battery--electrolyte level topped-off now and then.

If you've got a heap of aftermarket electrical loads, you need a bigger alternator more than you need a bigger battery.

I've owned two Optima batteries. The first one went ten + years. The second one was Mexican, and went somewhat less than one year. Charge the battery, it'd go three or four weeks and leave SWMBO stranded. Charge the battery again...three or four more weeks. Replaced alternator and starter "just because". Pulled cables off, cleaned both ends. No difference. Eventually replaced the Optima, and all electrical problems ENDED.

[kingbuzzo]

I upgraded to the 80a alternator last year but assumed my battery troubles (now two T/A's) were always attributed to my giant radio gadgets.

I have also tried the dick trickle charger, storing it indoors on wood in the winter, and now have heated storage. Drive the car once a week in the three seasons and disconnected for the fourth.

For me the warranty has always been key - these pontipigs need the juice just to turn over, especially when they are hot!

The best batteries I have had were the factory installed delco's - they lasted forever vs the off brand. I had a buddy who worked at the stealership who would hook me up but he doesn't work there anymore.

My experience anyways...

[Sirrotica]

FWIW, a new battery company that makes AGM batteries called Full River, or, Full Throttle Batteries, is supposed to blow Optima away. Listing for a 70 GTO has 840 CCA. Of course they are not cheap, but any battery anymore is not cheap, but you get what you pay for.

I saw that Matt's Off Road Recovery is using them for his vehicles equipped with 12,000 LB electric winches. Electric winches are quite hard on batteries, maybe something that will work for your GTO.

Link to Full River:

https://fullriverbattery.com/

[Gach]

Originally Posted by glenn911

Advance tried that crap with me on last battery I got for the '74. It was on shelf for 1.5 years. I said I want one of the ones with a newer date. They said they don't normally do that and acted like they were doing me a favor or something. Go to walmart they are good batteries, cheaper, and don't sit that long cause they sell so many.

Exactly why I won’t deal with Advance auto anymore. Unfortunately all the little independent auto parts stores have been bought out or gone.

[Schurkey]

The LAST thing I want to do with a "stored" battery is to keep it warm.

Ideally, a stored battery has the case cleaned of conductive slime, electrolyte topped-off as required, fully-charged, then left in an unheated shed, (or in the vehicle with one or both cables disconnected) stored as cold as Mother Nature allows.

1. I don't trust cheap-junk (but unreasonably expensive) Communist Chinese "battery tenders" to not fail and burn down the house in the process.

2. A guy could check the battery every month or so, and connect a charger to "top it off"; but if the battery is cold and clean, there should be no need. If your winter temps are moderate, occasional charging might be beneficial.

[Gach]

So they be now worries its store in my heated garage. Which is my man cave. The battery tender is on a switched outlet, so it goes off at night. That was my concern also. So basically its on about 10 hours a day then off at night. That way I don’t have to worry about connecting and disconnecting.

[Dragncar]

I use these all the time. Solar battery trickle charger, 22 bucks. They are not burning anything down.
My Tundra, a 2007 has had 2 batteries its entire life. These things work.
https://www.amazon.com/Sunway-Solar-...grid_rp_0_88_t

One place I have bought several great batteries from, the local junk yard. Yup, junk yard. Batteries have dates on them and the wrecking yard charges 30$ for any battery. So if you are not in a hurry you can check in once in awhile and get a expensive name brand battery that is only a few months old for 30 $

[Formulajones]

I'm not sure I could use those on the classics that sit in the garage for long periods. I'd have to find a way to have that thing sit outside in the sun and run cords under the garage door?? Wild animals out here would chew that up.

I've used regular battery tenders for decades on the cars that sit and I've never really been concerned with burning the garages down. Usually when they quit, and I've had a few that do, they just do exactly that, quit working. The garages have surge protector circuits on the plugs anyway, as all houses and garages should per building code, so if they overloaded the circuit in the event of a power surge it would turn the electric off to it anyway
As far as the tender charger itself, I always make sure they are just sitting on the concrete floor in case they ever do get hot. Not on a table near anything that makes fire tinder.

[vertigto]

Have a battery terminal quick disconnect and it is pretty convenient.

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by vertigto

Have a battery terminal quick disconnect and it is pretty convenient.

I have one on a car that I don't care about appearances in the sense of originality. I agree, they are pretty convenient.

[glenn911]

Yep, I got a disconnect on the T/A, it gets turned off every winter and the batt gets a full charge and then it sits in non heated garage until spring. Last battery for T/A was from 2007! lasted until 2019! Hope this one lasts half that long! wifes wrangler battery was original mopar unit from 2014 to 2023 can't complain about that!

[Formulajones]

I used to get 10-12 years out of the replacement AC Delco batteries back when I could buy them at the local KOI auto parts store. Those old green eyes would work for years even after the green eye disappeared LOL

I had those batteries in 3 different vehicles at that time, never used tenders on them, would sit during Ohio winters, and they all went at least 10 years or more.

As those batteries became harder to find and eventually unobtanium where I live now I've had to switch brands.

Settled on Interstates for a couple different reasons but in a nut shell, they typically last almost exactly to their predicted fail dates which I find funny and disturbing at the same time. If it's a 5 year battery I can pretty much bank on that thing quitting right around that 5 year time frame like clock work whether it's on a tender or not. They have been that way in almost a dozen cars I keep Interstates in for the last 15 years.

Because of that, with the number of cars and the frequency they get replaced there is no way I can afford one of those $500+ batteries. That's more than $6000 worth of batteries LOL It's bad enough keeping tires on the cars. For something that is basically a consumable anyway.

[Ram Air IV Jack]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

I'm not sure I could use those on the classics that sit in the garage for long periods. I'd have to find a way to have that thing sit outside in the sun and run cords under the garage door?? Wild animals out here would chew that up.

I've used regular battery tenders for decades on the cars that sit and I've never really been concerned with burning the garages down. Usually when they quit, and I've had a few that do, they just do exactly that, quit working. The garages have surge protector circuits on the plugs anyway, as all houses and garages should per building code, so if they overloaded the circuit in the event of a power surge it would turn the electric off to it anyway
As far as the tender charger itself, I always make sure they are just sitting on the concrete floor in case they ever do get hot. Not on a table near anything that makes fire tinder.

I use the Battery Tender brand on my classic and lawn mower. Never had an issue with them and IMO are the best units on the market, though expensive. The others we sell at my work are fine but the BT to me is the best and are fused so if there are any issues with the battery or tender the fuse will blow. A battery cutoff switch is a must as well if you want to preserve the battery longer.

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by Ram Air IV Jack

I use the Battery Tender brand on my classic and lawn mower. Never had an issue with them and IMO are the best units on the market, though expensive. The others we sell at my work are fine but the BT to me is the best and are fused so if there are any issues with the battery or tender the fuse will blow. A battery cutoff switch is a must as well if you want to preserve the battery longer.

Yes I have a couple of those "Battery Tender" brands here (the green ones right?)

I like those and the fact that they are fused too, good point, I forgot about that. They have worked good for me for many years.

[70GS455]

Originally Posted by R 70 Judge

I’ve always used Northstar Pro AGM batteries but they have since been bought out by Odyssey. You’ll need to check the fitment but the Odyssey extreme group 31 is pretty much baddest battery around. 1150 CCA. I have no idea if it will fit in your car though.

I plan on putting an Odyssey extreme group 31 in the trunk of my TA. I’m running a coil near plug EFI set-up, dual 460lph fuel pumps, along with a Holley 6.86” dash and 4K rear view mirror.


Check out this page from Summit Racing https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ody-31-pc2150s

And Odyssey is made in the USA!

Sent from my SM-T817V using Tapatalk

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

I'm not sure I could use those on the classics that sit in the garage for long periods. I'd have to find a way to have that thing sit outside in the sun and run cords under the garage door?? Wild animals out here would chew that up.

I've used regular battery tenders for decades on the cars that sit and I've never really been concerned with burning the garages down. Usually when they quit, and I've had a few that do, they just do exactly that, quit working. The garages have surge protector circuits on the plugs anyway, as all houses and garages should per building code, so if they overloaded the circuit in the event of a power surge it would turn the electric off to it anyway
As far as the tender charger itself, I always make sure they are just sitting on the concrete floor in case they ever do get hot. Not on a table near anything that makes fire tinder.

I just use the solar chargers on my Tundra where I just set it on the dash and on a riding lawn mower and generator where its easy to get to the sun. I might go 2 weeks not starting the Tundra as I drive the beater Honda to work. Which is currently down waiting for a starter from Amazon. 100$ when the last one I bought was 40$. Still better than the current Auto Zone starter at 230 $ !
I also have a Batter Tender and several of the cheaper little units. One I bought for 7$ at Harbor Freight years ago that still works.