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#1
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Solid motor mounts
Anyone run solid mounts on thier street car? Do yo have vibration issues or are they quiet ?
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www.bowhanger.com 468 poncho powered 66 cutlass 77 Trans http://s1059.beta.photobucket.com/us...rnout.mp4.html |
#2
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I had them on my streetcar, but I took them off. It was like my whole front end was solid when I went over railroad tracks.
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#3
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I ran one on the drivers side to control engine torque and a rubber mount on the passenger side. There was a little more vibration but not real noticeable.
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68 GTO,3860# Stock Original 400/M-20 Muncie,3.55’s 13.86 @ 100 Old combo: 462 10.75 CR,,SD 330CFM Round Port E's,Old Faithful cam,Jim Hand Continental,3.42's. 1968 Pontiac GTO : 11.114 @ 120.130 MPH New combo: 517 MR-1,10.8 CR,SD 350CFM E's,QFT 950/Northwind,246/252 HR,9.5” 4000 stall,3.42's 636HP/654TQ 1.452 10.603 @ 125.09 http://www.dragtimes.com/Pontiac-GTO...lip-31594.html |
#4
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Thanks thats why i was asking
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www.bowhanger.com 468 poncho powered 66 cutlass 77 Trans http://s1059.beta.photobucket.com/us...rnout.mp4.html |
#5
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I thought about that too. Thanks guys
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www.bowhanger.com 468 poncho powered 66 cutlass 77 Trans http://s1059.beta.photobucket.com/us...rnout.mp4.html |
#6
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That's my story too
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'78 Macho T/A DKM#95, 460cid, SRP pistons, KRE 310 D ports, 3" pypes, Hooker 1 3/4" headers, hydraulic roller, 10" Continental, 3.42 gears 11.5 @117.5mph 3900lbs ([_|_] ##\|/##[_|_]) |
#7
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i run them on my 79 TA
no motor movement and surprisingly SUPER SMOOTH too i did run just the drivers side for a while, less movement and now on both sides, so much more stable and even more stable now since i added the dual bolt trans mount (in place of the single bolt(trans mount to x member)) |
#8
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I didn't like having one on the driver's side either, so I went back to two stock mounts and I added a modified shift handle that bolts to the head (behind the alternator), and bolts to a mount on the frame. It is slotted to get a little movement, then it locks up. No negative impact on the ride.
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#9
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Same here, no issues.
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1969 GTO 4spd. Antique Gold/black, gold int. 1969 GTO RAIII 4spd. Verdoro Green/black, black int. 1969 GTO 4spd. Crystal Turquoise, black int. 1970 GTO 4spd VOE Pepper Green, green int. 1967 LeMans 428 Auto. Blue, black int. |
#10
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That solid driver side, normal rubber on the passenger is interesting. I had resigned myself to paying out the nose for urethane mounts, or dealing with hard riding solids. This could be an alternative.
Are their certain brands of each that match well together? I know i have read on here of people having issues with different brands or styles of mounts leaving the engine sitting higher/lower than the stock position. I would think this problem could be even more of a headache with a different style of mount on each side.
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1967 Firebird 462 580hp/590ftlbs 1962 Pontiac Catalina Safari Swapped in Turd of an Olds 455 Owner/Creator Catfish Motorsports https://www.youtube.com/@CatfishMotorsports |
#11
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I broke a mity motor mount, that's why I put the solid on that side.
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1969 GTO 4spd. Antique Gold/black, gold int. 1969 GTO RAIII 4spd. Verdoro Green/black, black int. 1969 GTO 4spd. Crystal Turquoise, black int. 1970 GTO 4spd VOE Pepper Green, green int. 1967 LeMans 428 Auto. Blue, black int. |
#12
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I thought I read a thread on PY that with a solid mount and higher HP applications the block flexes in the mount area.
This would be my concern. |
#13
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Got solids in mine. If I didn`t tell ya, you`d never guess.
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#14
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A 3/8" turnbuckle from the frame to the left head. It's less than $5, simple to install, adjustable, and you can still use the stock mounts. Your taking the strain off of the sides of the block imposed by solid mounts and transferring the force trying to twist the cast iron block, and possibly causing distortion to the #2 and 3 main saddle areas.
My 69 GP 428 pictured in my signature, used the turnbuckles for 3 years with no ill effects whatsoever. No unusual main bearing wear on the same set of bearings in that time. Of course there will be members weighing in that have used solid mounts for 20 years with no problems. There are also some members that will chime in with stories of solid mounts either breaking the block, or causing damage to #2 and 3 mains for no apparent reason, other than using solid mounts. Pick your poison. |
#15
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I use the interlock poly mounts from Butler, and a chain from the back of the driver head to the frame with a little slack. I make about 800 hp no problems yet,
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#16
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rubber driver side mount (anchor made in Korea) $5 from partsgeek.com
Tough for me to justify solid drver mounts with $5 rubber replacement prices. Just tap the saftey tab down for much reduced compliance/movement but don't touch or it mght make a knock noise. |
#17
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The solid mount on the drivers side keeps from shoving the shaker into the hood.
I welded the stock mount (anchor) solid so no fitment issues. You would not know if I didn't tell you. I do worry about stressing the block so adding a strap/chain/turnbuckle /limmiter attached to the drivers head is on my list of things to do.
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'78 Macho T/A DKM#95, 460cid, SRP pistons, KRE 310 D ports, 3" pypes, Hooker 1 3/4" headers, hydraulic roller, 10" Continental, 3.42 gears 11.5 @117.5mph 3900lbs ([_|_] ##\|/##[_|_]) Last edited by jonmachota78; 08-22-2016 at 09:49 PM. |
#18
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Quote:
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#19
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No. In fact the replacement mount was bought to replace a completely debonded Anchor-Korea mount of same-same. Just whacked the safety tab down to zero play.
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#20
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Can't remember what GM car it was, but dealerships would install a steel cable that bolted to the head and wrapped around the upper control arm bar.
I'm kinda fond of the log chain look and funtionality myself. Just leave a little bit of slack in it...very little slack.
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All the federales say,they could've had him any day They only let him slip away, out of kindness...I suppose Poncho & Lefty |
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