#1  
Old 09-08-2021, 12:09 AM
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GOAT8U2 GOAT8U2 is offline
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Default Brake Switch, Rear Tail Light Issue, Always On

My 1969 GTO just ate a battery down to 1.9 volts, whoa.
Rear taillights were constant on, I adjusted the switch and I could hear a clicking sound when the battery was on the charger.

After swapping in a new battery, the lights are still on.

I adjusted the switch in and out etc and nothings changing. It will though randomly turn off but it's mostly on, I'm pretty sure it's the switch though I'll test it soon.

To be sure, anyone with this issue before...
Do the switches cause a constant on when they die?


Ordered a new one at OPGI.
https://www.opgi.com/interior-access...e-c990048.html

Found this on Amazon
Borg Warner S237 Stoplight Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E72P66...ing=UTF8&psc=1

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69 GTO Convertible, 4000lbs
462ci, 606tq/569hp
11.7:1, KRE H Ports, Lunati HR 282/290 w Johnson Lifters & 1.65 Scorp, E30, EFI, Holley HP + Dual Sync, 12-1 Crank Trig, 120lb Inj & 1000cfm TB, Torker II EFI Intake & Rails, PTC 10" 0 Stat, Ricks Hot Rod SS Gas Tank, Magna 4303, Aerom EFI Reg, Aerospace Front & Rear Disc Brakes, Dougs 1 7/8" Headers & Borla Pro XS 3" Muffs, Alum Rad & Dual Fans, Powersteering.com Pump & 12:1 Box, QA1 Front Arms & Viking Berz CO + Rear Shocks, Hella UP28 Vac Pump
  #2  
Old 09-08-2021, 02:10 AM
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lust4speed lust4speed is offline
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Usually the switches strip out the threads and they will no longer maintain adjustment. The brake arm should contact the stop on the pedal assembly and the switch should be adjusted where the plunger is depressed fully into the switch case. Basically the brake pedal arm should contact the stop and almost touch the end of the threaded portion of the switch at the same time. I would expect to see the plunger extend out between an eighth to a quarter inch before the contacts close and the circuit is made. If the switch is extended too close to the arm it becomes the stop and will be battered, and if it is too far away from the arm the contacts might close and activate the switch without the pedal being depressed.

I would check that the arm can swing free without binding so it always returns against the stop with the plunger depressed fully.

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1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon in progress.
  #3  
Old 09-08-2021, 07:23 AM
Formulas Formulas is offline
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You sure it's just stop lights your seeing and not energized from the main light switch?

Pulling the wire from the brakes switch should turn them off if the problem is there

  #4  
Old 09-08-2021, 09:45 AM
"QUICK-SILVER" "QUICK-SILVER" is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Formulas View Post
You sure it's just stop lights your seeing and not energized from the main light switch?

Pulling the wire from the brakes switch should turn them off if the problem is there
OP didn't mention side markers, front park, dash lights.. So likely not headlight switch.

Yes to unplug or just pull the stop fuse. Or just check wires at the stop light switch with a test light since it comes and goes.

Clay

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Old 09-08-2021, 10:01 AM
Formulas Formulas is offline
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OP's often leave out a plethora of useful information more often than not

The Following User Says Thank You to Formulas For This Useful Post:
  #6  
Old 09-08-2021, 10:45 AM
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george kujanski george kujanski is offline
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The stops/directionals and the taillights are on different circuits. If the OP's original post regards the stop lamps, The problem is either the brake switch (misadjusted/faulty) or possibly the directional signal switch since the circuit goes thru there.

George

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  #7  
Old 09-08-2021, 11:02 AM
"QUICK-SILVER" "QUICK-SILVER" is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GOAT8U2 View Post
Rear taillights were constant on, I adjusted the switch and I could hear a clicking sound when the battery was on the charger.
Could you tell where the clicking was coming from?

Not impossible that your hazzard light switch has been bumped and partially depressed. Dead battery wasn't strong enough to heat the flasher and make it click. Then adding the charger got it working.

Stuff happens
Clay

  #8  
Old 09-08-2021, 02:56 PM
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GOAT8U2 GOAT8U2 is offline
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Sorry missed some details..

Only rear tail lights on

Clicking sound happened during dead battery, on charger, then me playing around with the Brake Switch. Clicking sounded like it was coming from the chair area, strange.

I'm so busy I can't get to it, I'm taking a short work break during my 12 hour day to post this.

New Brake Switch comes today from Amazon, luckily it's the same one as the other one I bought before seeing prime had a switch I could get today.

I'll report back, I'll even probe this one first before swapping it.

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69 GTO Convertible, 4000lbs
462ci, 606tq/569hp
11.7:1, KRE H Ports, Lunati HR 282/290 w Johnson Lifters & 1.65 Scorp, E30, EFI, Holley HP + Dual Sync, 12-1 Crank Trig, 120lb Inj & 1000cfm TB, Torker II EFI Intake & Rails, PTC 10" 0 Stat, Ricks Hot Rod SS Gas Tank, Magna 4303, Aerom EFI Reg, Aerospace Front & Rear Disc Brakes, Dougs 1 7/8" Headers & Borla Pro XS 3" Muffs, Alum Rad & Dual Fans, Powersteering.com Pump & 12:1 Box, QA1 Front Arms & Viking Berz CO + Rear Shocks, Hella UP28 Vac Pump
  #9  
Old 09-09-2021, 02:07 AM
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GOAT8U2 GOAT8U2 is offline
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My badd, a lesson in these old cars.

It came with cruise control, we took it out decades ago.

The switch I think I was adjusting was the cruise control switch and not the actual brake switch. I noticed the rear of this switch had a port on it, then I saw the vacuum hose nearby. It hit me...

The actual brake switch on top was the issue, it just was not getting pushed in. I took off the 3 total connectors and rotated it into the pedal, all good.

I'll keep the switch just in case it actually fails.
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69 GTO Convertible, 4000lbs
462ci, 606tq/569hp
11.7:1, KRE H Ports, Lunati HR 282/290 w Johnson Lifters & 1.65 Scorp, E30, EFI, Holley HP + Dual Sync, 12-1 Crank Trig, 120lb Inj & 1000cfm TB, Torker II EFI Intake & Rails, PTC 10" 0 Stat, Ricks Hot Rod SS Gas Tank, Magna 4303, Aerom EFI Reg, Aerospace Front & Rear Disc Brakes, Dougs 1 7/8" Headers & Borla Pro XS 3" Muffs, Alum Rad & Dual Fans, Powersteering.com Pump & 12:1 Box, QA1 Front Arms & Viking Berz CO + Rear Shocks, Hella UP28 Vac Pump
  #10  
Old 09-09-2021, 02:46 AM
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OZZIEVILLE 67 2 door OZZIEVILLE 67 2 door is offline
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  #11  
Old 09-10-2021, 10:03 AM
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Here's the closest looking to my current cruise control sensor I could find.

https://www.ss396.com/chevelle/GBL-852-CC.html


The other ones (D850a) on Amazon etc have the two separate connectors at the bottom of the sensor vs the rear like the one I have in there now.

GM Genuine Parts D850A Brake Light Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KFZ3UM...ing=UTF8&psc=1

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69 GTO Convertible, 4000lbs
462ci, 606tq/569hp
11.7:1, KRE H Ports, Lunati HR 282/290 w Johnson Lifters & 1.65 Scorp, E30, EFI, Holley HP + Dual Sync, 12-1 Crank Trig, 120lb Inj & 1000cfm TB, Torker II EFI Intake & Rails, PTC 10" 0 Stat, Ricks Hot Rod SS Gas Tank, Magna 4303, Aerom EFI Reg, Aerospace Front & Rear Disc Brakes, Dougs 1 7/8" Headers & Borla Pro XS 3" Muffs, Alum Rad & Dual Fans, Powersteering.com Pump & 12:1 Box, QA1 Front Arms & Viking Berz CO + Rear Shocks, Hella UP28 Vac Pump
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