[wakesupremo]

Hi all. Now that I have had my 469 tuned and dyno'd it is about ready for fitting into my '69 bird convertible. I really don't like the oil filter so close to the headers so I need to relocate it. Are there any preferences to which kit to buy?

[tom s]

Do you have the RA filter bracket on the engine?I kicks the filter back giving more clearance.Tom

[steve25]

Butler performance has all you need in one kit for 245 bucks.
If you do not use his kit then the main consideration is if the hoses screw into a adapter that takes the place of the oil filter or if a block is used as in the Butler kit,

Many times the adapters that just replace the filter are thin walled and installing the hose end fitting too tight into it bows out the threads and then even with Telfon on the threads the dam thing leaks!

Ask me how I know this, lol!
When this happened to me ages ago and no thick blocks could be had I bit the bullet and drilled & taped the block for the needed 1/2” pipe threads.

If your motor is assembled you do not have that option now I guess.

[leeklm]

I have tried using a remote filter on a couple of occasions, but in each case did not like the results due to losing 5-10 lbs of oil pressure vs using the filter in stock location. I was using a canton adapter in place of factory housing and #10 lines, about 20" long each, good fittings, no 90s, etc. Had two different filter housings and filters, but same result. Definitely fine for street, but liked a few more lbs when racing

Next time engine is refreshed I will add lifter bore oil restrictors , etc to keep more oil in the bearings, then try the remote system again.. Until then I will deal with an inconvenient filter location...

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[steve25]

A 2 Qt filter is a must!
I only saw a 5 lb drop with one and darn near zip with two filters.

[leeklm]

"A 2 Qt filter is a must!"

I will have to try that. I first used an Amsoil bypass system, which has a 1qt full flow filter and a large bypass filter. It is internally valved to bleed a small percentage of oil flow into the bypass filter, but still has just 1 input and one output like any other remote filter housing.

I then tried an Earls Aluminum remote housing with a 1 qt filter (I think it was a Royal Purple), but same pressure loss as above.

In my case I had full pressure at the remote housing, but losing some psi at the adapter block at engine, so am assuming the filters are doing it


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[Baron Von Zeppelin]

Originally Posted by tom s

Do you have the RA filter bracket on the engine?I kicks the filter back giving more clearance.Tom

just adding on to that comment - in case Wake isn't familiar with it -
it angles/slants the filter 45 degrees towards firewall, instead of being strait up and down.

EarlyBird / BigCar RamAir-HO oil filter adapter used with factory LongBranch Exh Manifolds

[HWYSTR455]

The problem with the plates that mount to the block for remote lines is that due to the radius of the AN fittings, and the NTP to AN fitting before it, it moves the lines so close to the header is super heats the oil, defeating any cooling efforts.

Tapping the block has been the preferred method, which moves the fitting/lines a little further away from a header. It's better, still not perfect, and of course it requires the block to be bare, in order to ensure no metal particles from tapping the thread enter the oil passages.

Spotts has an adapter that the fittings goes in the side of the adapter, facing back, which helps a lot. I'm not too familiar with it, not sure if the passages in the adapter are radius, but I suspect they aren't, though it's still better than any other adapter.

Then there's the issues associated with added lines, line volume, filter adapter flow (also not radiused), etc, and unless done properly, can introduce flow/psi and delay in psi to critical areas.

Honestly, the OE filter/filter adapter setup is hard to beat, even if it does maybe add some heat to the oil. Many have experienced issues when running remote setups, or they just don't realize the have.

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[imposter]

i have a few sets available

[taff2]

Put a piece of heat reflective material around the filter, you can get the embossed thin alloy sheet type that can be folded,shaped,riveted etc, or the fibreglass backed cloth type that can be made into a sock that fits over the filter. Both on ebay uk.
I used the fibreglass cloth type to shield my master cylinder from one of my turbo down pipes.

[78w72]

Originally Posted by taff2

Put a piece of heat reflective material around the filter, you can get the embossed thin alloy sheet type that can be folded,shaped,riveted etc, or the fibreglass backed cloth type that can be made into a sock that fits over the filter. Both on ebay uk.
I used the fibreglass cloth type to shield my master cylinder from one of my turbo down pipes.

x2 on the heat wrap/shield. i use the sock/bag type on my mini starter that is close to the big 2" super comp headers & also use the fiberglass backed tape stuff on the oil filter & wrap brake & fuel lines where they pass too close for comfort to the headers. angling the filter housing is a good idea too.

although on other current & past cars with headers i have never used any type of heat protection & never noticed any overly hot oil issues after lots of years & miles. verify the oil is getting to hot before going to remote oil filters, countless pontiacs & other cars out there have headers close to oil filters & other parts without any real problems.

[Steve C.]

Relevant or appropriate ??

Headers: Solving An Oil Filter Clearance Problem:

https://pontiacstreetperformance.com...iladapter.html


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