[dataway]

So I'm going to be using my old 2011 GMC 2WD (94,000 miles) for a bunch of 2400 miles round trips, light towing (2000 lbs). Truck is a 1500, 5.3, six speed auto, tow package, HD cooling, HD suspension, locking diff, standard cab, standard bed, something like a 3.55 rear. (originally ordered for towing a small goose neck).

In the last 10K miles this work was done.
Flush cooling system, change coolant (Delco coolant)
Flush tranny, change filter (Delco products)
New rotors, calipers, pads, drums, shoes, hoses, wheel cylinders and brake fluid.
New battery, new tires, TPMS sensors, serpentine belt, idler and tensioner.
New vapor cannister purge valve, headlight bulbs, sway bar links and bushings. New front struts and springs, charged the AC.

Work done this week.
Diff fluid changed
New rear leaf spring bushings, new fuel pump, new tank straps, new rear shocks, new vapor vent valve and lines, new Class IV hitch, new spare tire, new universal joints, new alternator, (have new water pump in box to bring along), new plugs and wires, new front hubs/bearing, air filter, oil change, new rear tail light junction box, rear O2 sensors.

All the parts were GM if available, Delco when necessary, only a few aftermarket things like a Curt hitch, Bilstein shocks.

Anything I missed? Can't really do much if there is a catastrophic engine or trans failure, but both seem to be quite healthy at the moment. Will be bringing along the usual travel safety and emergency gear, extinguisher, basic tools, jumper pack and cables.

Last vehicle with this many miles on it that I drove this far was my GTO 45 years ago, and it was in much worse shape, and I didn't think twice about it .. sucks to get old

[Stuart]

Used to be that cars were worn out by 100,000 miles, these days the number is typically 200,000 miles or more. I'd say your truck hasn't even reached middle age, I wouldn't worry about it.

[JJDeville]

Only issue I have seen with towing with a 1500 truck is rear end failure. They have small bearing rear ends compared to a 2500 or 3500 truck. The 1500 rear ends are always in short supply in wrecking yards due to this. It could be that the trucks are being used to tow too much weight, I don’t know. I get calls regularly looking for 1500 rear ends from people that know I was buying and selling.

[Murf]

Seems like you covered about everything. I generally buy vehicles with around 100K on them and drive them at least 100K. Should be a great truck for ya! I’m kinda old fashioned, I’d probably care a belt & idler with me. You know, If you have spares you never need them.

[OG68]

Original owner of an 2006 1/2 ton crew cab, 5.3 / 4L60 transmission / 3.23 Posi, HD towing package. When I bought this truck new I requested the 3:23 axle knowing that at the time 95% of my driving would be without a trailer.
Over the last 17 years it's been very reliable overall. Probably the best vehicle I've ever owned.
Unlike those in winter environments, I didn't have any problems with rusting brake lines or body. Truck is as solid as the day I bought it. Always had factory recommended service by the local Cadillac / GMC dealer. I did the oil changes.

When I bought my travel trailer (7500 #, tow on the ball), the truck had 190,000 miles. In addition to everything you have done, I had the rear axle rebuilt with a 3:73 gearset. I had a trusted shop to go to, and he found the posi case was cracked. He mentioned that this was common for 1/2 ton GM trucks. New bearings, brake shoes and drums rounded out the work.

He also recommended a local AAMCO shop to go through the transmission. AAMCO didn't find anything wrong with the trans but beefed it up with HD components, torque converter and a shift kit reprogrammed for towing.

In addition to the items I just listed you may want to have the oil pump replaced. Apparently the oil pickup seal gets hard over the years / mileage and starts sucking air. Mine failed at 140,000 but at least it did it in my driveway. This I understand is a common problem with the LS engine between 100-150,000 miles.

Take a good look at the Tire and Loading weight sticker on the door frame. You may be surprised at the weight rating (which also includes trailer tongue weight) that you can carry safely.
Review the owners manual again in regards to towing. The Tow / Haul switch works pretty good and has some nice features when traveling over the mountains.

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by dataway

So I'm going to be using my old 2011 GMC 2WD (94,000 miles) for a bunch of 2400 miles round trips, light towing (2000 lbs). Truck is a 1500, 5.3, six speed auto, tow package, HD cooling, HD suspension, locking diff, standard cab, standard bed, something like a 3.55 rear. (originally ordered for towing a small goose neck).

In the last 10K miles this work was done.
Flush cooling system, change coolant (Delco coolant)
Flush tranny, change filter (Delco products)
New rotors, calipers, pads, drums, shoes, hoses, wheel cylinders and brake fluid.
New battery, new tires, TPMS sensors, serpentine belt, idler and tensioner.
New vapor cannister purge valve, headlight bulbs, sway bar links and bushings. New front struts and springs, charged the AC.

Work done this week.
Diff fluid changed
New rear leaf spring bushings, new fuel pump, new tank straps, new rear shocks, new vapor vent valve and lines, new Class IV hitch, new spare tire, new universal joints, new alternator, (have new water pump in box to bring along), new plugs and wires, new front hubs/bearing, air filter, oil change, new rear tail light junction box, rear O2 sensors.

All the parts were GM if available, Delco when necessary, only a few aftermarket things like a Curt hitch, Bilstein shocks.

Anything I missed? Can't really do much if there is a catastrophic engine or trans failure, but both seem to be quite healthy at the moment. Will be bringing along the usual travel safety and emergency gear, extinguisher, basic tools, jumper pack and cables.

Last vehicle with this many miles on it that I drove this far was my GTO 45 years ago, and it was in much worse shape, and I didn't think twice about it .. sucks to get old

Used my ‘03 Silverado to tow trailers (under 5,000 lbs) to CT, FL and home to IN when my wife was working in those states. The Silverado is a 4.3/NV3500/3.23. It had 100,000 miles during this time period ( ‘10-‘17). All I did was change the fluid in the transmission, the diff lube, added a Class III hitch receiver and wiring for lights and an electric brake control. That little 4.3 V6 never even “breathed” heavy towing through the mountains of PA, NY, GA and TN. You should be fine.

[Cardo]

I'd replace the front O2 sensors too. They actually do all of the work... the rears just pretty much confirm the results. As they get older they respond more slowly... dinging your fuel economy a bit. You did everything else.....

[mzbk2l]

At about 200,000 miles my family member's 5.3 Tahoe started getting a Low Oil Pressure warning at idle. Some research revealed the common culprit to be the o-ring where the oil pickup tube goes into the oil pump. I was able to change that in-chassis and she's at over 330,000 now with no reoccurrence.

[1965gp]

I would have to wonder if it would be worth having the transmission gone through before you start the move. I mean you know it’s going to go around 150k (it’s a GM truck). Are you better off having it done by a trusted, reputable shop on your schedule prior to starting the trips or are you willing to chance getting stuck somewhere and being forced to have the closest shop fix it at a fantasy labor rate?

[dataway]

Wonder if the oil pump o-ring can be serviced in-vehicle on a 1500 ... from memory at the moment I recall the front of the pan being pretty shallow like it would slide out above the cross-member.

When I had the rear end open to change the fluid I noticed it seemed very clean, nothing to speak of on the magnet.

The only towing I did with the truck is probably 6,000 miles or so over the first four years of its life towing a 4500# goose neck to the races. I think this truck is rated for #9600.

This truck originally came with LT tires, I've since gone with the OEM standard tires. Max I'll be towing on these trips is 2000#, can't imagine more than about 300# of tongue weight.

How about the starter? It still has the original starter in it, never so much as a squeak from it.

I can tell you that changing out leaf spring bushings and front hubs on a 12 year old truck in the northeast is no fun at all.

Already warned the wife that if it fails on the way it's going to be a very expensive situation

hurryinhoosier62 .... I had a 4.3 in a late 90's S-10, yep, excellent little engine, I worked the heck out of it. Great engine and a great small truck (made by Nissan I think)

[242177P]

Bring a jerry can. You might not ever need it, but knowing you have a gallon or two on hand is reassuring.

[dataway]

Finished up today ... went down and filled it up with premium and some Techron, no codes, no funny noises.

Wondering about a front end alignment ... still has the original factory alignment, has no strange symptoms other than a mild vibration at the steering wheel at about 75mph that goes away at lower or higher speed. Wheels recently balanced, might have that checked again ... when the truck was new I don't remember this vibration. Might have tossed a weight at some point in the last year or so.

I just replaced all the universals ... haven't had it up to highway speed since then, universals I took out appeared to just fine.

[mgarblik]

You own the truck and are pretty locked in on how the truck's systems are all supposed to behave. If everything feels good and you have done all the maintenance items listed, you should be fine. My daily driver is a Jeep Grand Cherokee with 300,000 miles on it. I would drive it anywhere. I have driven high mileage vehicles most of my life with only a few failures. By 2011, most of the teething problems with the GM trucks were worked out. Rust is the most serious enemy of vehicles this age in Ohio at least. Most common one being the gas tank falling out of the truck from the cross tube rusting completely out and tank and straps falling off. You mentioned the oil pump. The long pick-up tube from the rear sump to the front oil pump connection is one of the few sore spots with the LS series engines. If your oil pressure is fine, no way I would try to mess with that connection. Very hard do deal with on a 4X4 and still tough on a 4X2, but I have done a few. An unnecessary can of worms IMO. At 95K miles, I might take a dental mirror and look carefully at the weep hole on the water pump body. If you see a coolant trail, it may be time for a pump. They are fairly easy. Your truck should have another 100K of reliable service left in it. I know this is the wrong thread but congratulations on your new property purchase. We almost moved to TN about 7 years ago. But that's another story.

[Sirrotica]

Like Mike, I always drive high mileage vehicles, and of course know that things can go wrong on long trips. It doesn't deter me from driving them though. Actually most times when I have a failure, it's running locally.....LOL

DW, seems like you have covered the bases pretty well, like Mike said look at the weep hole on the water pump, my 05 GTO started leaking at around the same mileage, so I just bought a new one, been fine since, and it's at 145,000 now. That was the only major part I've put on the engine in the last 17 years of ownership.

Been dealing with rusty vehicles ever since I started twisting wrenches, lived in Erie PA until I was nearly 50 and then moved to central Ohio about 20 years ago, so rusty vehicles were always common to me. I did live for almost 2 years in Memphis, so unless a car/truck is a transplant, that area is mostly rust free for vehicles.

[dataway]

Mike ... excellent idea on the mirror ... I was wondering how I would get a look at that even though I have about three mirrors in the tool box

When I had the bed off to replace the fuel pump I did a bit of welding on the fuel tank support crossmember, and replaced the straps, and lots of rust treatment. It wasn't good, but I've seen WAY worse still on the road.

When I replaced the front hubs the dust shields that are sandwiched between the hub and steering knuckle were too rusty to reinstall, and are unavailable from any source (before my truck series and after, but not 2011) ... so at first I trimmed them down to just the part that got sandwiched between the parts .. but I didn't like the way that felt when I was torquing down the hub, too spongy as it tried to compress the bent up dust shield ... so I didn't use them, which moves the hub closer to the knuckle by probably 0.040" ... which of course moves the rotor that much closer, and shifts the rotor 0.040" to the inside of the caliper ... anyone think that is a problem? Nothing rubs, brakes work fine so far .. basically I think it would be the same as pads wearing a bit uneven.

And .... what the heck is that plate bolted on the bottom of a 5.3 oil pan? four bolts in asymmetrical through holes that hold it on, but it covers up nothing, there is no access to the oil pan ... it's just a metal plate bolted to the bottom front of the pan.

[242177P]

Originally Posted by dataway

... what the heck is that plate bolted on the bottom of a 5.3 oil pan? four bolts in asymmetrical through holes ...

Sound deadener. According to this thread anyway

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=648261

[dataway]

Interesting, thank you. Never would have guessed that.

[mgarblik]

Those damn GM dust shields are really something. The rears are worse than the front generally. It's almost like they were treated with a special rust agent that would make them rust faster and dissolve faster than any metal known to man! I have seen them go to dust in 3 years around here. Never had an issue running without them. The brake caliper doesn't know the difference. It's a floating design so it just takes a new set on the slide pins. You may have already done this but Rock Auto sells some genuine GM dust backing plates. Possibly GM still has them in their parts system. I would think finding good used ones would be impossible. Those GM trucks are nice vehicles.

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by dataway

So I'm going to be using my old 2011 GMC 2WD (94,000 miles)

"Old" 2011: heh heh.

Just rolled 270,000 over the weekend on my 2004.

(although admittedly it is a bit of a different animal, being a Duramax/Allison 2500HD)

K

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by 242177P

Bring a jerry can. You might not ever need it, but knowing you have a gallon or two on hand is reassuring.

I do this too. It is comforting to have a splash of fuel on hand. Seems like it drops off pretty dang fast below 1/4 tank, especially when trailering.

I have a couple experiences of late where I went from "I'm about ready for our next stop" to "DANG! We NEED fuel!" in short order.

K