[jlm69]

Hi folks,

I've been on this forum for a few years, following what's happening with the brand and itching to get going. I put off building a car for more years than I care to mention due to family obligations. Every time I wanted to start doing some work on my car, something in life always came around the bend head on. I'm finally at a point in my life that I can commit to scratching this itch. I'm in the process of looking for my first enclosed trailer while I'm waiting for my car to arrive from California and my engine is being built (I decided to buy a rolling chassis to get going quicker). I'm getting together things that I think I would need to haul with me. Other than the given like tools, I'm wondering about things like transporting fuel. I'm looking to run alcohol so I thought about probably the 5 gallon fuel jugs. Are they compatible with alcohol? Northern sells a 14 gallon fuel caddy for about $110 made out of polypropylene with what looks like brass fittings. Would that be compatible with alcohol? I guess the list could go on as if I wanted to drag my entire garage with me.

Your thoughts??....and not just on the fuel issue.

[mike leech]

fyi i would strongly recommend a lower half tool box. get yourself set up with a set of tools that stays in the trailer and a small bench with a vise. as fuel goes I have a 15 gal drum i fill and keep in the trailer and transfer out of that for the car. the drum seals better to keep moisture out and fuel in. Not an alcohol guy but it would seem the lower perm metal better with it as well.

[bad69bird]

JLM69,

I have an enclosed 24' trailer. I bought a 100amp service box and ran homeruns to every outlet in my trailer because of the potential amperage draw from some of the things I have going at any given time. The only exception to this are the outlets that I put above the counter top. I put them all on the same circuit because the only things on there usually is a laptop, maybe a crockpot or something like that, and under the cabinet lighting. All of the trailer lights inside are also on the same circuit, with the exception of the halogens that are mounted at the back of my trailer for when I'm pitted off of the back of my trailer or if I'm loading up late.

As far as powering the box...I bought a 30' RV cord to plug into the 240v side of my generator and mounted a box to plug the RV cord into that. Then ran a line from the box to the 100amp panel. That way I'm feeding the panel with 240v and regulating it with the box. The 30' cord allows me to get that noisy POS as far away as possible from my pit area (would like to purchase an Onan but funds do not allow at this time).

I also bought a small homeowner grade tool chest and roller that I permanently mounted in the front corner of the trailer. Then tied it in with a counter top.

Good luck with your project!

[twooldgoats]

Originally Posted by jlm69

..... I'm looking to run alcohol so I thought about probably the 5 gallon fuel jugs. Are they compatible with alcohol? Northern sells a 14 gallon fuel caddy for about $110 made out of polypropylene with what looks like brass fittings. Would that be compatible with alcohol? ....

Excellent choice to go with alcohol, IMO. And it's compatible with both of the above. I have both types, but find I only use the 5-gallon containers----never had much use for the bigger caddy. I have an open trailer, but built a couple of aluminum boxes to hold four of the five-gallon jugs.

Welcome to racing.

Jim

[twooldgoats]

Here is a link to a site with some excellent checklists for going racing:

http://racecarbook.com/blog/

Jim

[Probird]

Something you will probably need eventually and maybe use to load the car every weekend is a winch. Here is how I'm getting ready to mount mine: http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...r+winch+instal .

A generator is always nice to have with you too. Of course the quietest you can afford is the way to go. I get by just fine with a 3500 watt. It will power the motorhome A/C along with lights and battery charger in the trailer.

I also run alcohol. The plastic jugs work great. I usually take 5 with me along with a jug filled with 87 octane gas for the generator and a jug filled with 92 octane gas for the primer plus. The primer plus will allow you to warm the car up and drive around the pits on the 92. It will cut the amount of alcohol you use in half. I could get by with about 2 jugs of alcohol with this but I don't like to cut it close and I have the room for 5 so that's what I take. Before the primer plus I used to go through 20 gallons a day.

An awning is very nice to have also to get out of the sun or rain.

I like to take a spare of just about everything with me too. You never know what you will need, or another racer may need. Not many out there keep Pontiac parts or gaskets in their trailer.

[cgeise]

Originally Posted by bad69bird

JLM69,

I have an enclosed 24' trailer. I bought a 100amp service box and ran homeruns to every outlet in my trailer because of the potential amperage draw from some of the things I have going at any given time. The only exception to this are the outlets that I put above the counter top. I put them all on the same circuit because the only things on there usually is a laptop, maybe a crockpot or something like that, and under the cabinet lighting. All of the trailer lights inside are also on the same circuit, with the exception of the halogens that are mounted at the back of my trailer for when I'm pitted off of the back of my trailer or if I'm loading up late.

As far as powering the box...I bought a 30' RV cord to plug into the 240v side of my generator and mounted a box to plug the RV cord into that. Then ran a line from the box to the 100amp panel. That way I'm feeding the panel with 240v and regulating it with the box. The 30' cord allows me to get that noisy POS as far away as possible from my pit area (would like to purchase an Onan but funds do not allow at this time).

I also bought a small homeowner grade tool chest and roller that I permanently mounted in the front corner of the trailer. Then tied it in with a counter top.

Good luck with your project!

SOOOOOOOO your the one with the damn noisy generator @^@$$@^@@&!% We all run the 2000wt honda that is super quiet and light -- it has inverter technology so it will be ok with your computer. and puts some nice bright lights in the trailer -- mounted or portable will work.

[65nss4spdGTO]

As far as the trailer, a 24' may work, but a 28' will get you plenty of room for ATV, golf cart, Harley, what ever you want to bring. I also recommend a double entry door, you may pack the car away and still want to use your pit ride to run around. Spend a bit more money on the trailer, a lot of junk out today. I recommend white exterior as it will weather better, the "coin floor" option is the best bang for the buck IMO. My last living quarters trailer had small ramps the car would sit up on(had extra storage), allowed me to pull the trans in the trailer, change the oil, ect.

I've attached a picture of the ramps.

Feel free to call or send email.

Calvin Hill
Hill Performance
708-250-7420

[S/st 54]

Originally Posted by mike leech

fyi i would strongly recommend a lower half tool box. get yourself set up with a set of tools that stays in the trailer and a small bench with a vise. as fuel goes I have a 15 gal drum i fill and keep in the trailer and transfer out of that for the car. the drum seals better to keep moisture out and fuel in. Not an alcohol guy but it would seem the lower perm metal better with it as well.

Good call Mike! Something you also might want to do is carry an extra set of wheel bearings & inner seal and dust cover for your trailer.....hopefully you'll never need them but man they are sure nice to have in that bottom of that tool box if you ever need them. Speaking from experience on that one.

Also a infrared temp gun......check your tire temps and bearing temps every time you stop for gas and just you pull into the track. You can tell if you have a bearing going dry or going bad and also you can tell how level your load is in the trailer by looking at the temps...

Best of luck to you!

[Elarson]

a few more thoughts from the road:
.
1) invest in some Pit Pal (or similar) storage racks. Getting stuff off the floor will really multiply the available space and make it easier to walk around in the trailer.

2) 4-wheel brakes on trailer...some cheap trailers only put brakes on 2 wheels.

3) factory built-in brake controller on the truck is the best way...next best is the Tekonsha Prodigy add-on brake controller.

Eric

[bad69bird]

Originally Posted by cgeise

SOOOOOOOO your the one with the damn noisy generator @^@$$@^@@&!% We all run the 2000wt honda that is super quiet and light -- it has inverter technology so it will be ok with your computer. and puts some nice bright lights in the trailer -- mounted or portable will work.

HAHA...Yup that's me!!! I am respectful at night though and shut it off. I try to shield it with trash cans etc. the best I can.

[60man]

Originally Posted by bad69bird

HAHA...Yup that's me!!! I am respectful at night though and shut it off. I try to shield it with trash cans etc. the best I can.

Busted !!! I know $$$$ has a lot to do with choices for a lot of people. But it only takes to be courteous....kuddos for that Pit Bitch...
I sold my 3200w conventional generator and bought a Honda EU2000i .Expensive but paid for itself already..in fuel savings alone......plus I use it during power outages at house. I ran it continuously for 3days/nights on about 10 gallons of fuel......and never heard it running. Only weighs like 50# so I throw it in truck camper to..... You can run these
in tandem if wanted for 4000w..
They now make a 3000w version ......be my next trailer acquisition,,,, i could run my AC

[ventura7211]

I would say it depends on the car and if you want to take a quad/golf cart to determine the trailer.

I had a 26' Vintage, it was "full" with my Ventura and 4wheeler. I sold it and bought a 28' Haulmark Edge with the low car floor option, the floor on this trailer sits lower in the frame than most others, it has a beaver tail that starts behind the wheel wells and has an extra long extension on the door. Its made for "chassis cars" or any car maximizing the NHRA 3" minimum ride height rule.

I have a warn winch in the trailer to load the car, instead of a steel cable it is a nylon, less weight dragging it out, easier on the car's paint. The trailer is carpeted half way up the wall for the same reason, keeps the trailer and the car from getting dinged when you open the door to get in/out of the car (if your doors don't lift off).

I have a door caddy that holds all the fluids and cleaners, it has a fold down tray which can be handy at the track to place grimy items on instead of on the cabinets in the trailer.

Other "pit pal" accessories that are handy is a fuel rack, the one I have will hold 3 5 gallon jugs, I have a 6 nitrous bottle rack to leave room for a 2 bottle spa before the door and hanger in the rear for straps.

I also bought some clips designed to hold brooms in garages, the broom would snap into them, I use them to hold a broom and the pushbar for towing at the track.

I added a cheap roll around tool box from lowes next to the generator compartment for tools.

The most useful item I added might sound odd, it is a large white marker board, I use it for notes (what needs to be done at the track to the car if anything) as well as notes for tune ups and changes under timeslips held to the board by magnets. I find it is easier/quicker to do this than fill out the log book between rounds.

Oh and if you haven't purchased a trailer yet, go with the rubber coin floor, it is well worth the cost to upgrade. The vinyl checker board stuff will stain if you have a tranny fluid or oil spill.

HTH.

[02Hawk]

Ditto on what the experts above have listed.

One thing that needs to be added is ensure your tow vehicle can handle the weight of a loaded trailer, carts, tools, race car and all the crap you need.

A half ton is not legal in most of North America to haul a 24 to 28 foot tag with a 3500 lb car in it

Other items on the list
1) carry 2 spare tires and have a well or accessible mount....include a jack that can lift the trailer if you have a flat ....and a place to tie the jack down with...Note...PITPAL is your friend

2) carry good quality straps to tie car down with

3) have a small compressor ....very handy at the track

4) Battery charger

5) a decent radio so you can hear the calls for your class

6) lots of extension cords

7) extra clothes in the trailer plus rain gear and hats (for sun)

8) bug spray and sun block

9) weather station

10) a drop sheet for the car to sit on in the pit

11) Garbage bags

12) brooms and a mop

13) extra marker light bulbs etc

14) pens, paper, cheap camera, white board, etc

15) lots of nuts, bolts, washers, o-rings, fasteners, AN fittings, some braided hose , electrical tape, gun tape (duct) rpm pills, set of spark plugs, plug wires etc

16) extra belts, oil, WD 40, white shoe polish, rags, distilled water

17) fire extinguisher (ABC)

18) BBQ (briquetts or LPG) and cooler, paper plates, napkins, TP . forks , knives , spoons, condiments, saran and foil

19) chairs and we carry a 6 foot folding table and a pop up tent

20) bucket for washing, oil drain pan,

21) extra fuel pump and regulator

plus about a 1000 other things

[PONTIAC DUDE]

Originally Posted by mike leech

fyi i would strongly recommend a lower half tool box. get yourself set up with a set of tools that stays in the trailer and a small bench with a vise. as fuel goes I have a 15 gal drum i fill and keep in the trailer and transfer out of that for the car. the drum seals better to keep moisture out and fuel in. Not an alcohol guy but it would seem the lower perm metal better with it as well.

X 2 I also made jug holders that mount under the front section of the 5th wheel. As listed along with others...............

I also have a cheap bench grinder with pads on my counter under shelves. Go to harbor freight and buy the assorted mini boxes of small screws, washers, cotter pins, Flashlights with extra batteries. roll around battery charger, mini air compressor. Calculator, Data book with hard pad. Holley parts. I have a peg board with appropriate hooks that I hang my Holley spare parts, hose clamps, gaskets, screw drivers, 200 mph and electrical tape on. Pit pal oil storage unit. Pit pal fold down oil rack with table. I also have a hang on the outside table that I mount on the side of the trailer. Foldable table. Don't hang it the door. Time will tell. I also have 2 hooks mounted on the outside to hold the hood against the trailer with a felt bungee cord when working under the hood.
aluminum floor jack.
First aid kit. Lot more I probably forgot to list.

[S/st 54]

Originally Posted by 02Hawk

Ditto on what the experts above have listed.

One thing that needs to be added is ensure your tow vehicle can handle the weight of a loaded trailer, carts, tools, race car and all the crap you need.

A half ton is not legal in most of North America to haul a 24 to 28 foot tag with a 3500 lb car in it

Other items on the list
1) carry 2 spare tires and have a well or accessible mount....include a jack that can lift the trailer if you have a flat ....and a place to tie the jack down with...Note...PITPAL is your friend

2) carry good quality straps to tie car down with

3) have a small compressor ....very handy at the track

4) Battery charger

5) a decent radio so you can hear the calls for your class

6) lots of extension cords

7) extra clothes in the trailer plus rain gear and hats (for sun)

8) bug spray and sun block

9) weather station

10) a drop sheet for the car to sit on in the pit

11) Garbage bags

12) brooms and a mop

13) extra marker light bulbs etc

14) pens, paper, cheap camera, white board, etc

15) lots of nuts, bolts, washers, o-rings, fasteners, AN fittings, some braided hose , electrical tape, gun tape (duct) rpm pills, set of spark plugs, plug wires etc

16) extra belts, oil, WD 40, white shoe polish, rags, distilled water

17) fire extinguisher (ABC)

18) BBQ (briquetts or LPG) and cooler, paper plates, napkins, TP . forks , knives , spoons, condiments, saran and foil

19) chairs and we carry a 6 foot folding table and a pop up tent

20) bucket for washing, oil drain pan,

21) extra fuel pump and regulator

plus about a 1000 other things

Heck yeah BUG SPRAY especially if you go to Brainerd! Ive seen skeeters up there that can easily be confused for small eagles.

[ho428]

While I agree to a point it's nice to have your entire garage with you in a massive rig, it's not nessesary.
My races are 2-3 day events and I just use a 20' enclosed, has full cabinets up front, a small air compressor, trailer has AC, lights, jack, jack stands, folding table, pop up, weights for pop up, ratchet straps, lots of drop cords, two sets of mounted tires, winch, drop cords, pit bike, broom, battery charger, hand cleaner, oils and fluids, big fan for cooling the engine, hangers on the wall for driver suit and such, clock, electric impact wrench, assorted small parts, belts and hoses, and most any tool I need to fix things at the track, biggest repair I might do is a clutch or brake repair, but not anything real major, not at the track.

My tracks usually have power but the RV does have a Generator, I used to pull with an SUV and hit the local motel, but staying at the track is much better. Don't let the RV fool you, I don't have a single thing in there for the race car, it's all in that 20' trailer.

Little things like already mentioned are great, white boards, bug spray, sunscreen, lot's of water, a couple of lights for working in the evenings, etc... I started with a notepad and added to it at each event when something came up I could use or needed.
If you take too much you'll just clutter up everything, take only what you think you'll need and grow from there. I've actually taken things out once I realized they're not really needed.

[cgeise]

If you dont take it with you -- YOUR GOING TO NEED IT !!!!!!!

[jlm69]

Gentlemen,

First I want to thank you all for the suggestions & recommendations. I plan on making a hard copy of this post & of the racer logbook mentioned & refer to them. I will be planning my purchase of a trailer based on the ideas here.

Have most of you purchased your trailers completely done or buy them finished on the interior with wood & built-up from there?

Is so, who can I turn to in order to buy the aluminum wall panels? Rubber Coin flooring?
Are added receptacles installed into the walls or surface mounted? If built-in, how do fish 120V wiring thru very thin walls? Power Vents or A/C units? What kind of structure is needed to mount them. Any special attention needed to the trailers roof?

PROBIRD,

You mentioned Primer Plus. Is that a special fuel separate from regular fuel / alcohol? Who distributes it? Do you have a separate fuel cell in the car & switch between them?

Lou

[ho428]

Mine was already done.
All enclosed trailers are definitely not equal, you get what you pay for. A quick reference is the tongue, it it's two tubes chances are the trailer is lightly built, 3 tubes, left-center-right, chances are it's better quality. I prefer torsion axles over leaf spring.
An entire thread can be made on what to look for in a quality trailer.

Not sure how much general knowledge you've got on trailers, but if you have a dealer close by go pick his brain, they'll usually show you entry level to fully decked out.
Even if you buy used it'll help seeing each level and the details.

If you can wait until warmer weather for a decent size sportsman race at some local track go and walk the pits looking at trailers.
Doesn't matter if it's road race, short track or drag, they're pretty much the same trailers, just outfitted differently.
Everytime I go to a race I check out other rigs, some ingenious rigging going on.