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  #21  
Old 09-02-2011, 04:15 PM
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Can someone please suggest an overview of basic procedure and tools and source for tools to accomplish the cam degreeing that screamingchielf was referring to.

Would like to do this. Seems like I would need to take everyting off the front of the engine. Is this correct? Are there multiple ways to accomplish this?

  #22  
Old 09-02-2011, 08:31 PM
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I just did a search here on "degree kit" last night and came up with dozens of threads that discuss how to degree a cam. Checking mine is on my "to-do" list but I haven't gone through the process in many years, and don't have all the stuff to do it with any more.

Yes everything has to come off the front, and the intake, valley pan and at least one of the valve covers. And you have to have a degree wheel, dial indicator with some sort of base, and some other odds and ends. Suggest you do a search and read up on it.

In your case I would first go through all the other stuff mentioned and see where that gets you.

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  #23  
Old 09-07-2011, 08:07 PM
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I read some of the post here on degreeing cams and on youtube and read forums elsewhere and have a better understanding of cam degreeing, I didnt find a step by step here but did learn some.

There are methods of degreeing with heads on and with heads off.

I plan on degreeing it with heads on. Note I have hydraulic lifters. (wonder if I need solid lifter in to degree properly?

I will start another thread on cam degreeing methods to get peoples opinions there in case they skip this thread based on title (which I may change)

the thead is here:

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...ewthread&f=418


I will need to pull off fan shroud and fan and timing cover and drivers side rocker arm cover and harmonic balancer.

Summit suggested the following items.

crank socket

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-4798/

degree kit

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-4796/

balancer puller/installer

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1025/

does this seem like a good way to go?

Hoping to solicit opinions before I invest in these tools.


Last edited by cscottfergus; 09-07-2011 at 08:21 PM. Reason: more info
  #24  
Old 09-08-2011, 07:02 AM
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You shouldn't need a puller to remove the balancer- they usually slide right off. And if it is a little stuck then a cheap gear puller should pop it free. Can't speak for the socket and degree kit but they should work.

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  #25  
Old 09-08-2011, 10:32 PM
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Great thank you very much

  #26  
Old 09-09-2011, 06:46 AM
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I always use a solid lifter when degreeing cams. That way I know I dont get any movement in the lifter when I degree. I have a hyd lifter I blocked up with tinfoil for that purpose. I install a pushrod and read lifter movement off the end of the pushrod. Just make sure you get the pushrod nice and parallel to the lifter. Verifying lobe lift is a good way to verify you've got it set up right.

I use a degree wheel and a coat hanger attached to the front of the block. I usually use a piston stop to find TDC and then go from there. With the heads off, I have also used a dial indicator on the piston to find TDC. Rotate crank one way and then the other, watching for the same piston travel. Add the total degrees and divide the degrees in two to find TDC. Same procedure as a piston stop. Typically I use the intake centerline method of finding cam position.

Easier with all plugs out and all rockers backed off, if doing an in-car degree process.
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  #27  
Old 09-20-2011, 09:43 PM
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Still need to replace distributor with vacuum advance unit and degree cam etc..

Cruising temps are about 180 on interstate and creep up to 200 at stop lights.

there was a ? earlier on vacuum. Checked vacuum at idle is about 18, fluctuating just a little.

  #28  
Old 09-21-2011, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cscottfergus View Post
Still need to replace distributor with vacuum advance unit and degree cam etc..

Cruising temps are about 180 on interstate and creep up to 200 at stop lights.

there was a ? earlier on vacuum. Checked vacuum at idle is about 18, fluctuating just a little.
Temps of 180 @ cruise creeping to 200F at lights in the heat down here is pretty damn good. I wouldn't worry about that. If you want it lower try putting in a 160F stat. If it can keep temps at or around 160F then you have a great cooling system.

Karl


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