[TheSilverBuick]

12-15 psi.

[TheSilverBuick]

I've cleaned up the hot side a bit, repainted it with very high temp paint and re-wrapped it. I haven't done the cross over pipe yet as I may re-do that one entirely.


On Facebook there were some questions on valvetrain follower tolerances, so I finally did what I had wanted to for a while and cut up a cam housing and cam to see exactly what is going on under the cam house. I have a housing that literally was pulled out of a garden bed and a 1bbl camshaft that has a few flatten lobes that could be used.




For the measurements I was looking for, I pulled the check balls out of the lash adjusters to make sure I could easily compress the adjuster.


Basically questions were around the tolerances of the thickness of some aftermarket cam followers versus GM. In my case, every follower I had was the same.


The base circle of the cam compressed the lash adjuster 0.10". The lash adjuster would bottom out if the follower was another 0.057" thicker (or base circle was bigger for some reason). I suspect this is why the valve stem heights need to be within 0.025" tolerance, to still allow the lash adjuster to have some range to work if it was on the high side.


Here is a video rotating the cam. The lash adjuster in operations should not compress, and you can see how much of the follower contacts the cam on the ramp up and down.
https://youtu.be/kuCSJbVflyQ?si=a5p4oRtgj7szL0mi


I don't plan on converting to a manual transmission yet, but I figure eventually I will, so bought a used scatter shield for a Magnum T-56 I have. The problem with the OHC engine is its a deep skirt block, so the starter sits lower than the typical BOP.




Here you can see how much offset it there is from a normal BOP bellhousing.


I know I'll have to cut the scatter shield to clear the starter, but it was mentioned I might get away without cutting using a mini starter that doesn't have a nose cone. Well almost. Still would have to clearance the block plate and scatter shield, but would be much less trimming than a nose coned starter. I have a while to decide which way I'll go.

[TheSilverBuick]

Did a little work on the hood tach update. A long while back I epoxied the inside of it up because the plastic is pretty degraded and flaking. I also put iron sleeves around the threaded stands, filled them with epoxy, drilled and tapped new threads into them.

I made a panel out of sheet plastic to hold the digital tach screen and red and orange lights. I'll use the lights as warning indicators for the EFI. Overheating, low oil pressure, lean condition under load, or as shift lights.



I took the boat tach out of its housing entirely. There is a settings button on the top of the tach that I'm looking at soldering some wires on to and mounting a remote button on the bottom of the hood tach assembly so I can adjust the redline, etc on the tach.




All assembled and I checked that it still powers up.


I may get some black vinyl and cover over the sides and Chinese writing on the screen. Just leave the actual bar gauge and rpm numbers visible.


Here is the video of my proof of concept from a few months ago.
https://youtu.be/LJDj-_oQey4?si=xkJm6lxPFMjG5TUd