[64speed]

Cars not even running and the engine in my car is already losing its pop. How do you guys keep everything shiny and fresh? What do you clean with? I spilled a little oil on my valve covers and intake and I am afraid to do more than just wipe them off. I know my garage is dusty but it’s already beginning to look dingy.

[steve25]

It's accomplished by praying to the Hindo God of spit and polish while twirling around 360 degrees 6 times while shaking a big twig of Rosemary up and down!

[78w72]

clear engine paint on any aluminum parts will keep them looking like new for a very long time. i have used it on alum valve covers, intakes & other misc steel & alum parts & they look like the day i did it 10+ years later, when it gets dusty or dirty just wipe it off or use a light cleaner like 409 or simple green. even used it on my alum e-heads 6+ years ago & they still look great, no yellowing even on the exhaust ports.

& most engine paints are resistant to oil & other automotive fluids including fuel for a short period, but not brake fluid, that stuff will damage any paint. i would not use it on exhaust crossovers on intakes or headers etc, thats too hot for engine clear.

[rohrt]

Originally Posted by 78w72

clear engine paint on any aluminum parts will keep them looking like new for a very long time. i have used it on alum valve covers, intakes & other misc steel & alum parts & they look like the day i did it 10+ years later, when it gets dusty or dirty just wipe it off or use a light cleaner like 409 or simple green. even used it on my alum e-heads 6+ years ago & they still look great, no yellowing even on the exhaust ports.

& most engine paints are resistant to oil & other automotive fluids including fuel for a short period, but not brake fluid, that stuff will damage any paint. i would not use it on exhaust crossovers on intakes or headers etc, thats too hot for engine clear.

What brand of clear do you use? Spray can or 2 part mix? I'm surprised it held up on the heads.

[64speed]

Yeah the edelbrock valve covers are the finned aluminum ones and they are supposed to be clear powder coated but I have been afraid to do anything other than wipe them off. The blue engine paint is flaking in two places where I guess it didn’t get prepped well enough. I am gonna try to get it off and redo. It’s down near the freeze plugs so it’s not the end of the world as far as visibility. The intake just looks like it’s hazing over and like I said the motors just been sitting

[78w72]

Originally Posted by rohrt

What brand of clear do you use? Spray can or 2 part mix? I'm surprised it held up on the heads.

i use rustoleum brand in a spray can, menards sells it. i use it for color too & seems to last longer & cover better than the other brands like duplicolor & plasticoat. the clear is a gloss finish so parts do look a little glossier than unpainted but the gloss dulls up a bit after some use & ends up looking close to natural.

if we ever run into each other around town id be happy to show it to ya... i was surprised it lasted that long on the heads too, but being they are aluminum they dont get as hot as iron heads on the exhaust ports, or maybe it dissipates the heat better so it doesnt cook the paint like iron heads do.

i used it first on my 78 T/A 10+ years ago & the alum valve covers look like new still, so i used it on my 81 turbo & my recent 72 firebird resto with the E-heads... use it on uncoated steel parts too like brake & fuel lines & even brass with no signs of yellowing or failing yet... looks much better than rusty parts or chalky oxidized aluminum.

[78w72]

Originally Posted by 64speed

Yeah the edelbrock valve covers are the finned aluminum ones and they are supposed to be clear powder coated but I have been afraid to do anything other than wipe them off. The blue engine paint is flaking in two places where I guess it didn’t get prepped well enough. I am gonna try to get it off and redo. It’s down near the freeze plugs so it’s not the end of the world as far as visibility. The intake just looks like it’s hazing over and like I said the motors just been sitting

if the valve covers are clear powder coated they shouldnt need anything but wiping of dust or light cleaning if they get oily. the intake is bare aluminum & as you are finding, bare aluminum will haze & then turn an ugly chalky white color in a short time, & usually pretty quick once you start driving it. you can try the engine clear on the intake if its completely clean before spraying (wipe or spray with brake cleaner) or use a silver/aluminum engine paint on it.

if the blue paint is already flaking on the block without running it, it definitely wasnt prepped right or there was oily spots where its flaking. after running that will likely get much worse, i would sand or wire brush it then wipe clean with brake cleaner or lacquer thinner on a rag, then respray it with 2 medium coats. & maybe try a different brand of paint if that one failed that soon. i have engine blocks in use that are 10+ years old & the paint is not flaking at all... as with anything painted, its all about the prep prior to spraying.

[JJDeville]

I would be careful about spraying clear on your engine. I have seen it turn yellow from engine heat. I would wash it real good with a pressure washer and then clean all the hoses with lacquer thinner. It should look good then. If you want it to really shine, spray it down with WD40 and wipe it down with a microfiber cloth. It will be easier to clean next time. A nice engine compartment requires maintenance.

[78w72]

Originally Posted by JJDeville

I would be careful about spraying clear on your engine. I have seen it turn yellow from engine heat. I would wash it real good with a pressure washer and then clean all the hoses with lacquer thinner. It should look good then. If you want it to really shine, spray it down with WD40 and wipe it down with a microfiber cloth. It will be easier to clean next time. A nice engine compartment requires maintenance.

in my experience high heat engine clear will not yellow under normal use on any engine part like valve covers, water pumps, pulleys & brackets etc. obviously avoid super hot areas like exhaust ports on iron heads or the exhaust crossover on the intake. i have been using high heat engine clear paint for 10+ years with excellent results & zero yellowing or flaking off on 3 different cars.

i have also helped friends restore or freshen up their cars & had them use the clear & they are very happy with it... on the last 78 T/A i helped with & planned out for a friend he decided to use the clear engine paint on the whole block & heads & intake for a unique natural cast iron look with black & aluminum parts, looks kinda neat & the clear is doing fine after 3 years.

64speed's engine is new, it doesnt need to be pressure washed, & i would not suggest spraying the engine itself & brackets etc with WD40, that will attract too much dust & dirt & leave an oily residue on areas that should be dry. for hoses & other rubber items maybe, but there are other products that will work better & not leave an oily residue.

i agree engine bays require maintenance to keep clean, but when parts are protected somehow to begin with & free of as much oil as possible they are much easier to clean & maintain.

[NeighborsComplaint]

Spray the aluminum parts with aluminum wheel cleaner for clear-coated wheels first and use a green scotchbrite pad to lightly rub the intake and non-machined surfaces on the heads. Use a trigger spray bottle with water to neutralize and rinse.

I machined/polished surfaces are still dull, use a polish like Flitz, Autosol or Blue Magic to hand polish them. NeverDull or Eagle Cotton Wadding Polish works well too.

Then Spray your bare aluminum parts with SharkHide clear coating. It will outlast any of the paints and doesn't yellow. Avoid spraying anything on the exhaust ports. Better to be able to scotchbrite them periodically than risk any coating getting baked on or burned.

If your clear-coated valve covers have dulled, there's nothing you can do for them. Rub a test spot (back of valve cover edge) lightly with some polish. If they transfer black to the rag, they aren't coated and can be hand polished