[Bcwoods]

Hello besides cutting the holes thru the lower cowl for the vents and changing the firewall, non ac box, what other vents will be needed to do this, WIll any of the AC vents work with the non AC set up? What Im really looking for is some kinda of diagram showing the whole NON AC set up. thanks

[rolling money pits]

Easiest solution is an A/C delete box, most ( if not all ) resto supply houses sell them.

Non-A/C cars had totally different firewall, inner/outer boxes and heater cores, in addition to control heads and ducting.

Pop on the delete box and off you go, well, after you make some minor customizations to it.

Edit- I’m referring to the outer box, and it’s a “delete” box, NOT a block off plate.

[grandam1979]

You will need the defrost duct and the complete non a/c setup. Will need to weld a small area of fire wall and cut a little bit. If you can weld and grind it’s not that hard I did a 80 T/A looked stock when done. Try to get the heater controls and cables it will make it much easier. If you’re just trying to remove the a/c and not look stock one of the delete boxes will work. Get a new firewall insulation pad and it will show you what to weld and cut and if you have a donor car make a nice pattern. My2¢

[JUDGE3]

easiest. done this twice. outside box cover change only. I have also done an ac to non ac complete swap which is not hard at all just need all the parts.

on the inside, just swap the ac control plastic cover plate to a non ac and your in stealth mode there to.

if you go with just the outside cover box get the fiberglass one not the abs plastic. iv'e had both. the fiberglass is far better.

all done and detailed its great. be sure and drill the box to relocate the resistor to plug back in. gotta have that for the fan to work. you can see in the pic where I put it and works great.

[4dblnkldude]

I am going through this right now. Judge, where did you get that resistor? Is that brand new or was it on the old AC box? I don't remember...I removed the whole AC harness I just gotta figure out what ones run the blower. I did not do anything in the car yet except a non AC glove box, under column cover, and non ac bezel. Still have AC controls.

[rolling money pits]

Originally Posted by 4dblnkldude

I am going through this right now. Judge, where did you get that resistor? Is that brand new or was it on the old AC box? I don't remember...I removed the whole AC harness I just gotta figure out what ones run the blower. I did not do anything in the car yet except a non AC glove box, under column cover, and non ac bezel. Still have AC controls.

Blower resistor would have been on the evap box, somewhere..not sure what car you have, but there may have been another sensor on it, looked like a thick quarter, something to do with cutting the compressor off which obviously would no longer be needed.

Also, non AC cars had the cable controlled vents in the kick panels, one as part of it, the other in upper outer section of the cowl…a round tube with a flapper, I wanna say 3” or so in diameter. That refers to 69/70/71 ish A bodies, the ones I’ve seen. Cannot speak for F bodies..

Look at pic 2 and 3, before and after shots of the delete box, what you need to modify…….resistor placement and blower motor cooling tube. I also grafted in the motor reinforcement ring off the original box to the delete one.

Beauty of these boxes is that’s all one needs to change, controls, vents, air movement all works as before, just no cold air or defogger lol

IIRC there’s an AC extension harness that can be eliminated, I believe it’s there to control and power the compressor and clutch.

[JUDGE3]

Originally Posted by 4dblnkldude

I am going through this right now. Judge, where did you get that resistor? Is that brand new or was it on the old AC box? I don't remember...I removed the whole AC harness I just gotta figure out what ones run the blower. I did not do anything in the car yet except a non AC glove box, under column cover, and non ac bezel. Still have AC controls.

my resistor is the old one removed from the original ac box. its the only thing u need and they are available from most vendors. I kept my original wire harness and only clipped the wire running to the compressor since u need to plug back in to the resistor (and blower motor). a simple piece of hose tubing all you need for the blower motor cooling tube and a rubber grommet for the heater core tube.

you can keep your ac kick panels and leave as is of course, I chose to swap mine to the cable pulls because i like the vent air at the floor. you will not have upper cable vent air so I used plastic plugs there that make it look like it came that way. if you remove and reinstall either kick panel, use the caulk cord weatherseal from home depot. cheap and same stuff as expensive strip caulk only better because its in 1" wide strips and perfect for kick panels.

some would not do this but I hate ac on muscle cars so it meant zero to me, I did enjoy cutting the vent arm off flush at the heater dash control so the no ac plastic cover would fit and be stealth. hit it with a little flat black cant see it was done. its the short norm/vent arm I cut there on the left.

[JUDGE3]

If you remove all original ac ducts as I did, you will need to fab a very simple square block cover and screw it on where the duct attached to the inside main box. (facing the seat on the passenger side towards the center)

I only kept the defroster duct and the floor/foot duct right behind the console.

I finished the stealth mode off with a non ac panel below the steering column and a new glove box no ac door.

[4dblnkldude]

Judge, and everyone. Awesome thank you! I also dont remember a cooling hose going to the blower? I did not mean to hijack but now the OP has the info.