[R 70 Judge]

Originally Posted by Gach

At the time there was a group buy into Scat cranks. Which turn out to be a nightmare especially when it came to balancing. Having to add weight in the tune of $400.00 more for the balancing. The Crower crank like you say ended up taking weight out. I never like the fact of drilling and adding weight to the counterweights. Plus with 4.5 stroke the pin would’ve ended up in the bottom oil ring.

My AP/BOP/Scat 4.25” stroke crank balanced just fine. No issues

[Gach]

I don’t doubt it, but the group buy in I’m talking about was the Pontiac Dude deal. I bought my Scat steel crank from AllPontiac. Their the ones who got the Scat deal establish. But I was told then you better buy now because who knows what the quality will be like. I think he was addressing the Pontiac Dude deal. Hey I know allot of guys run Scat cranks. They also made billet crank which Kinsler and Mike ran. That one was $2900.00.

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by PAUL K

You implied previously that there is no reason for a Pontiac guy to use anything but a Molnar rod.

So, I was wondering why a Molnar crank wouldn't be recommended along the same lines.... There doesn't seem to be a lot of opinions for the Molnar crankshafts. But bunch of praise for their rods.

I'm curious as to why?

Personally, I think there is a whole bunch more to manufacturing a quality crankshaft compared to a connecting rod.... I disagree it is "just a hunk of steel".

Yes, that is my opinion of Molnars rods. Just not having to spend some more to hone the big end like I have had to do is worth it. Then you have the insane strength of Molnar rods. Its a win-win.
Recommending Molnars cranks so far and above the others in their price range, I don't see it. Scat forgings are stronger than any OEM block.

I would run a Molnar crank in a heartbeat. I am sure they are dead nuts on like their rods. But they are a little more expensive too. I have never even laid my eyes on a Molnar crank, but I bet you have. How do they look to you ?

If both cranks are 4340 non twist forgings, not bent, straight shot oiling, smooth thrust surfaces, oil slinger in the right place and right size and the clearances correct they will take all you can throw at them.
Not the same deal with a Molnar rod vs Eagle-Scat-CAT-RPM-Speedmaster and the rest. All of the latter have snapped in half at some point due to the rod not being able to take the power. At our track we had a 800HP BBC throw a rod through the pan just during the burnout.

Lots of people have put big power through a Scat forged crank.

I too would like more info on Molnar cranks. And I am sure you are right, lot more to manufacturing a forged crank than a rod. Tom told me it was 150K for the forging dies to be made in the USA. Their rods just require a little chunk of flat billet stock and a CNC machines do the rest.
But the Molnar cranks do not have all the counterweights, just like Scat. So in the end are they that much different ? That is the reason I have been crowing, trying to get Molnar to make us a fully counter-weighted forging like their 1200$ BBC crank.
They would rule the Pontiac forged frank market. The high RPM big power guys could run one instead of a near 5K billet.

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by R 70 Judge

My AP/BOP/Scat 4.25” stroke crank balanced just fine. No issues

So did mine. The first guy had a tough time drilling it. Hard crank.

[Gach]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

So did mine. The first guy had a tough time drilling it. Hard crank.

First guy? How many times did you have it balanced ? Was that when you change over from Crower rods to Molnar ?

[Dragncar]

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...d.php?t=843165

[Gach]

So sounds like you bought a set of used Crower rods off someone and 2 of them were physically bigger. So rather then pay the $600.00 to replace the 2. you bought the Molnar rods for $750.00 and chose to pay another $350.00 to balance the whole Assembly again I would’ve demanded my money back off guy you bought them from.

[Dragncar]

Nope, he gave me more than a fair deal. Great guy.

[Dragncar]

Close up of the threads.
Yellow paint, Molnar PA rod bolt.
White paint, Crower billet rod bolt.
No paint RPM rods, Crower copy ARP 2000 bolt.

[Dragncar]

The PA rods do like they have a thicker thread. But its not by a whole lot.

[Gach]

Well I don’t blame you then, to bad that cost you extra $1100.00 plus the $350.00 or so to balance it with the Crower rod, and what you paid for Crower rods. I guess Some times a good deal isn’t so good. To bad you didn’t catch it before you sent Crower rods off to balancer. Expensive lesson I guess.

[Gach]

So actually now you have 2 sets of Molnar rods. Got have close to $2800.00 in rods. After that ordeal. Well at least now you got yourself good set you can feel confident.

[Stan Weiss]

Originally Posted by Gach

So actually now you have 2 sets of Molnar rods. Got have close to $2800.00 in rods. After that ordeal. Well at least now you got yourself good set you can feel confident.

Gach,
How does what parts Troy spends his money on other than Molnar rods or cranks have anything to do with this thread?

Stan

[Elarson]

Originally Posted by Gach

The power you guys made with funny car is unbelievable.

Thanks! That project was big adventure and hopefully recalibrated everybody on the "limitations" of a traditional Pontiac engine.

Eric

[Gach]

Stan. I think if you following his link closely you probably wouldn’t be asking that question, really about a deal gone bad. Kind of a heads up on used parts. He mention luckily having lubricant to do the stretch deal from his leftover Molnar power adder rods and explains why. I thought it was really helpful.

[Stan Weiss]

Originally Posted by Gach

Stan. I think if you following his link closely you probably wouldn’t be asking that question, really about a deal gone bad. Kind of a heads up on used parts. He mention luckily having lubricant to do the stretch deal from his leftover Molnar power adder rods and explains why. I thought it was really helpful.

Gach,
Correct, I have not been following Troy's links very closely. I am only in this thread because I am interested in what this thread is about.

Stan

[Dragncar]

The link was posted so someone could go back and get the info they already should know if they wanted to. My post was simply in reference to a machinist noting the Scat crank was hard to drill.
I have 2 sets of Molnar rods bought for a little over 600$ a piece and a set of well taken care of Crower billets for 450$. 2000$ rod these days so I am in good shape, no worries.
This thread is about Molnar rods.
Does anyone notice a difference in the threads on the Molnar rod bolts. Its subtle for sure. But I did not try and put the rod bolts in different rods to see if they had interference, not doing that !

[Gach]

Its really hard to tell from those pictures. Unless had them in my had with magnifying glass I couldn’t tell.

[Gach]

Have a friend who’s Molnar dealer he gets them for $450.00 a set wish I’d known I would’ve hook you up. Just thought you going with the Crower rods. He’s done quite a few street builds. Speaking of Molnar rods he hasn’t had to do any resizing. Love’s them.

[Gach]

Seeing Molnar offers a power adder rod and Super power adder rod I wonder if the bolts in surper power adder rods are any different. Being a stronger rod with up grade in material. Just curious i’ll have to give him a call.