[n20ta2]

So when I was doing all my bodywork I mocked up my after market hood to my fenders and the profile fit fairly decent. I did not install my fender wells for the mock-up but probably should have. Now after paint and final assembly my hood sits proud at the center of the fenders, while the front and rear of the hood sit flush to the fenders. Has anyone dealt with this and had a solution? The fender wells arent that heavy and dont seem to be pulling down on the fenders at all so I'm not sure whats now causing this.

[n20ta2]

Heres a pic

[400 4spd.]

Have you tried removing the bolts directly above the tire that point upward? It could be caused by the sequence that the inner fender bolts were tightened or incorrect hole stampings around the perimeter of the wheel well. Seen it both ways.

[n20ta2]

I tried removing them completely with little to no difference. I'm thinking I may have to tweak the hood some

[dataway]

The area beneath the edge of the hood is pretty much the stiffest part of the fender because of the vertical section beneath it, would be real hard to tweak that.

Is it the same on both sides?

If you go to tweak the hood, don't put a block under the very outside corner in the front, move it toward the center a bit since you don't want to tweak the corner up in relation to the nose.

[HoovDaddy]

I run into this everytime I mix OEM and aftermarket parts. Usually I'm trying to save an expensive OEM hood and matching it to the aftermarket fenders. Not a big deal when it's in prep stage. Is the gray your finish color? Are the rubber bumpers causing this? Anyway my method is unorthodox but it works. I plot the measurements of the gap on a grid. Do not try to straighten it on the car. Remove the hood and place it on wood blocks on the floor and carefully bend it as needed using a straightedge along the bottom to measure the gap as I work it. This hood was worse than yours, the pic shows the plot lines equally spaced. The fender views show how I do it, no fancy tools needed. OEM hoods are very stiff and I will actually stand on them sometimes. You'll need to bend it slightly more than your measurement as it will try to return to shape. If that is your final finish you can put towels to protect the paint, but I would plan on blocking and reshooting the hood to fix it right.

[n20ta2]

The entire car is getting blocked re-based and cleared
So I have some room to mess with it just trying to stay away from any more body work as its nice and straight now. I may try the block Idea this weekend.

[tjs72lemans]

My 72 GTO hood sat proud in the center like yours, but at least a 1/2'. It had been bent from someone and bad hinges. They actually had slid a piece of 1/8 thick steel about 16 " long and 1 " wide between the sides of inner and outer skins and welded. I had to drill their welds out, remove the pieces and do as HoovDaddy did. Except I had a steel bar (1" x 4"x4') on under side of hood with 2x4 on top with the clamps. I had the hood on and off about six times, but it is now perfect. I never thought I would even get it close. I did rework those steel pieces and slid them back in and plug welded. I can't even tell they are there now with them slid in farther and the skins pinched tight over them.