[mkoser]

Ok. I'm frustrated again.

The pull seemed to be gone. I was ecstatic. A couple hours later, I took the car for a drive around town. IT'S BACK!

Here is a brief video I shot showing the problem.

Any other suggestions?

http://youtu.be/FSxLERV20Xc

[Willshire]

Perhaps there is crud in the lines. (Left is pushing back more fluid than the right leaving the right "on" more ) do you have a dual master? Have you considered a proportioning valve? Just spitballing here

[mkoser]

Originally Posted by Willshire

Perhaps there is crud in the lines. (Left is pushing back more fluid than the right leaving the right "on" more ) do you have a dual master? Have you considered a proportioning valve? Just spitballing here

Yes. I put a dual master on a number of years ago. The problem appeared a number of years after that mod.

No proportioning valve.

[mechanickeith]

OK,,, I had this issue with my Tempest for a while. I found that I had different dia. wheel cylinders on the car at some point. Factory was 15/16 dia. I found the left front was a 1" not 15/16. Changed the cylinder & it went away.

[mviker]

You mentioned you found the pads installed wrong on passenger side. I'm guessing you removed them and reinstalled them in their proper orientation. I'd also suggest putting the adjusters back on too, then go through all four wheels and make sure they're properly adjusted. If you're having no actual mechanical issues, then that should get you back up and running again.
If you're pulling to the right, that means either you have the right front or rear or maybe both right wheels tighter than your left side, or your left side is looser, depending how you look at things. I watched your video. Doesn't appear the pull is that drastic. I've seen it worse where the wheel nearly gets ripped from your hand.
Looks to me like you just need more adjustment. I'd start from scratch and see where it lands you.

Kevin

[mkoser]

Thanks for the reply. Yes. I reinstalled the shoes in the proper orientation.

I really need to figure out what is causing this. Like I said before, the car stops like a dream, once everything is adjusted properly. About 10 miles of driving later, it pulls, and Always to the right. Once it begins to pull, it doesn't go away.

The pull may not seem that bad at 10mph, but a 55 it'll put you in the ditch if you're not ready for it.

Thanks.

[mviker]

Originally Posted by mkoser

Thanks for the reply. Yes. I reinstalled the shoes in the proper orientation.

I really need to figure out what is causing this. Like I said before, the car stops like a dream, once everything is adjusted properly. About 10 miles of driving later, it pulls, and Always to the right. Once it begins to pull, it doesn't go away.

The pull may not seem that bad at 10mph, but a 55 it'll put you in the ditch if you're not ready for it.

Thanks.

Matt,

You mention once it starts dragging, it doesn't go away. Not even if you say....Come home and let the car cool down? I'm curious as it occurred to me perhaps your drums are out of round. They're fine until they heat up, start dragging, then maybe fine again after they cool off?

Kevin

[justaguy]

If the brake on that wheel is really tight after you removed the auto adjuster and drove it a bit I would think there is something in the lines or master restricing pressure from releasing. The brakes should still be adjusted to where you set them when first reinstalled. Unless like previously stated the problem goes away when it cools down again and reappears when it heats up.

Just a thought.

My other thought was that if it pulls to the right is it that the right is tightening up or is the left not tightening up as it should? If the left auto adjuster wasn't working the right would tighten as it needed but the left wouldn't causing the right pull. This wouldn't apply however as you removed both adjusters and it happened again.

[Engine-Ear]

...by that I mean, at least your brakes are doing TOO MUCH, rather than not enough (look ma, no brakes!).

I am probably missing something, but I can't picture how the brakes will operate without the adjuster being there (on '62s, anyway, the bottom of the shoes pivot on the ends of the adjuster.).

To Keith's point, maybe you can read the casting numbers on the wheel cylinder bodies and cross-check them against the Master Parts Catalog.

And lastly, call me. I am busy this week & thru the weekend but have time thru the end of August. I work for beer.

[justaguy]

I took it as he removed the lever that does the auto adjusting...

[Engine-Ear]

Originally Posted by justaguy

I took it as he removed the lever that does the auto adjusting...

...makes sense... ('62s don't have auto-adjustment)

[mkeafer]

I had a similar problem on two different vehicles. One is my 64 Catalina.
I was on the road and noticed the car slowing and the back brakes were both dragging. I stopped and checked and both back brakes were pretty much locked up. I had it brought home and found that the flexible line from the frame down to the reardend was failing and would actually act as a check valved when pressure was applied. Some of the inside of the line was coming loose and would open and let fluid pass and then close off when the brake predal was released. I replaced the line and fixed the problem
I had a smilar problem with a van on a front wheel. In this case it was a flex line again. The line down to the the front wheel was doing the same thing. Replacing the line fixed it. And one more thing I learned years ago. When you think one side is pulling it may very well be that the other side is not adjusted up tight enough and you think the pulling side it too tight.
Just some thougts.
Good luck.
Mike.

[kwt63cat]

Mkosar,
Maybe you need another set of eyes to look at this. I had this same problem on my '63 and after making everything right and correct I found out it was the rubber brake hose on the side the car was pulling to......the right side. In my case it did it all the time. You stated that you replaced the hose. Was it a new one or used? If all of that is good I'm offering to visit you, take a look at it and see if I notice anything out of the ordinary. I'm in the Milwaukee area....not too far from Evansville. About 90 min. 'Just a thought. You've been fooling with it way too long.
Ken

[sts]

It claims that this shouldn't be used as an adjustment for brakes. But if protocol wasn't followed when installing the shoes, this could be the problem because they weren't installed correctly.

I would aggressively rough-up the shoes with #36 grit, washing away what might be considered already seated shoes. The only problem I would have is determining what the sfb writer means by “heavy drag.” One guy can barely turn a wheel that free-spins; another guy can snap the wheel off the axle with one hand. So which guy's definition of heavy drag is correct? Don't ask me because I don't know anything about adjustable anchor pins.

1970 Motor's Repair Manual: pg 2-589

kwt: My guess is your car also has adjustable anchor pins. Did you follow book procedures or get lucky?

[8LUG]

#6 on this thread asked that question too.

[Willshire]

Call inline tube get the line kit then it's all new. Lol

[pfilean]

My 1965 Motors Manual has the same explanation but indicating it applied to 58-64 cars. Fortunately it's a Motors and not a Chilton or it would be even harder to understand. But on the thought that it applied to 58-64 I went to my 61 shop manual for a good explanation. It is very little better but makes it sound like the anchor pin at the top of the brakes may be egg shaped where the shoes contact it. Along with a picture showing two wrenches being used on the inside of the baking plate. One wrench on the pin and one wrench on a lock nut. I'd post the picture but I have not had good luck lately getting attachments to show good resolution. Apparently by loosening the lock nut and rotating the egg shaped pin slightly you can change the adjustment and cure drag. I have never had this problem myself and am not sure but it sounds like the adjustment changes the bias between the drum contact between the front and rear shoes and hence change the self energizing feature with these Bendix brakes. A change in the anchor pin would effectively be re-centering the two shoes within the drum. Both the shop manual and Motors need a lot better explanation of what they are talking about. But if you can follow that feeler gauge malarkey give it a try. What have you got to loose? Just try and note the original position of the anchor pin so at least you can get back to square one.