[Bruce Meyer]

I was changing the oil in my 69 GTO and noticed a scratch/gouge in my oil pan. Upon closer inspection it turned out to be the inner tie rod grease fitting was hitting the pan on hard left turns. Looking closer I noticed the pan was sitting on the crossmember. The mitey mounts that only have 2k miles on them collapsed. JUNK! I put some solid mounts on I had from my racing days. I do not notice any extra vibration with the solids. Don't waste you money on mitey mounts.

[grivera]

I have factory replacements in my bird and same, in less than 2k miles the pan was touching the crossmember. Is there a downside to the solid mounts?

[JSPONT]

Try the poly ones from Butler they worked well for me so far. Solid is ok too, just put a regular on the passenger side and a solid on the driver to keep vibration down. My .02

[Bruce Meyer]

Originally Posted by grivera

I have factory replacements in my bird and same, in less than 2k miles the pan was touching the crossmember. Is there a downside to the solid mounts?

I havnt noticed any downside to solid mounts. I used to run them when I raced. The car was street driven for thousands of miles on the street and around 1000 passes at the strip. Never a problem. I went with rubber mitey mounts this time around because I turned the car back to more of a stock type cruiser. I figured the car would be smoother w/rubber mounts. I cannot notice any difference at all between the solid and the rubber as far as vibration.

[FrankieT/A]

I put Mitey Mounts in my car and lasted 2 weeks. They suck canal water..!!!

[RocktimusPryme]

There are quite a few guys who recommended a solid on the drivers side with a normal mount on the passenger to mitigate some of the possible vibration issues with solid mounts. Thats the route Im going. Fitment for the urethane units seemed to be mixed.

The other option is a turnbuckle or just a chain to limit movement on the driver side. But I have a phobia of using my expensive aluminum heads as a stop point with a turnbuckle bolted to one.

[Bruce Meyer]

Originally Posted by RocktimusPryme

There are quite a few guys who recommended a solid on the drivers side with a normal mount on the passenger to mitigate some of the possible vibration issues with solid mounts. Thats the route Im going. Fitment for the urethane units seemed to be mixed.

The other option is a turnbuckle or just a chain to limit movement on the driver side. But I have a phobia of using my expensive aluminum heads as a stop point with a turnbuckle bolted to one.

Putting a rubber one on passenger side might be a good idea when you could get decent motor mounts. The new ones are junk. You could collapse the pass side then your motor will sit cocked. I also heard of a lot of fitment issues with the urethane mounts including separation issues.

[RocktimusPryme]

Well you can't buy single solid mounts that I'm aware. So I have a set of solid mounts. And a set of rubber mounts. I'm going to do one and one. If I quickly anihilate one? Then the other solid will go on.

[DevoBuzz]

I have the mitey mounts too. Will need to check their condition.

If I want to install solid mounts I will need the engine mounts only and the frame mounts can be reused? ?

[FrankieT/A]

Owning early and late 2nd gen F bodies, here's what I did. On my early; I use late style mounts. I split the clam shell and inserted the Chevy style aftermarket poly mounts(Energy Suspension). When I first did it they were rock hard and transmitted all vibration throughout the car. After driving the car a couple hundred miles the vibration was gone, l guess they broke in. Point is they're captive(No chains, cables turnbuckles ,etc. necessary). Being a T/A that's important since body work for me is a pita. So far about 30,000 miles and a bunch of NOS on 'em. No issues. I would think the same thing could be done for early A bodies. The bracket that bolts to the block has a different height between 75 and up "F" and big bodies so there could be some adjustment there for the application.

[JSPONT]

I posted before the poly mounts are holding real well 700-800 h.p. They are higher in price but work great. I do have a strap too. They do not like a lot of heat, so I put an aluminum heat shield around them.
I also have a stick car so it is even harder on them. I broke 3 sets of mounts before I put these in. No vibration issue either.

[grivera]

Are solid mounts and poly mounts the same thickness as factory mounts?

[1968GTO421]

Does the infamous sagging crossmember problem enter into this equation at all?

Thanks!

[RocktimusPryme]

Originally Posted by grivera

Are solid mounts and poly mounts the same thickness as factory mounts?

When I bought my solid mounts from butler, knowing I was going to be using one factory style mount on the passenger side I asked that question. The response I got was

"They are as close to factory height as a solid mount can be"

Not sure exactly what that means. I assumed it meant they made them factory height but may not be exact with the various heights of factory repro mounts out there now.