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Old 04-16-2019, 09:59 PM
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Default oil pump pick up tube-which one?

Ok so is one better than the other or no difference?

The one with the cover over more than half the screen vs the one with the "strap" across the middle?

Both available but the strap version is more common from what I've seen.

One ebay seller even goes as far to say this about the second one pictured:


The pick up without protective cover has a strap across the bottom that reduces screen surface area potentially impeding flow. Is not coated to prevent rust. Cheaper to manufacture.


I'm not so sure about that but what do I know
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  #2  
Old 04-16-2019, 10:13 PM
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Most use the 2nd type. They come with the M54DS pump. I have one still in the original plastic bag it had when I bought it. Don't even remember ever buying it. But I obviously did.

Will sell for $12 shipped USPS to the lower 48, in a padded envelope.

https://www.ebay.com/p/Engine-Oil-Pu...d=183748512280

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...41&postcount=1


Last edited by ponyakr; 04-16-2019 at 10:23 PM.
  #3  
Old 04-16-2019, 10:15 PM
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I am thinking that he is assuming that the "D" shaped (raised portion) of the screen will allow oil flow to the side of the pick-up closest to the tube that comes out the side.

My opinion is that the surface area of the two screens in identical, and that the oil can actually cone into the screened area from about 270 degrees of flow area.
In the left screen all of the oil has to enter from one direction.

That being said, if the car was being raced on a parking lot maybe the trapped area of the screen MIGHT trap a couple of millileters of oil better vs the dual opening screen where the oil would run away from the screen.

But that is why you put a "trap door" oil pan on a vehicle doing that stuff.
So the oil cannot run away from the pick-up.

Again, I am going by what I think vs what he apparently knows.

Tom V.

Both of the pump screens suck (with the small diameter inlet tube size) vs say the Luhn Performance Oil Pumps with a much bigger oil inlet design.

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Old 04-16-2019, 10:50 PM
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Or this one?

I think this was on the 40 psi pumps?

Like sucking through a straw.........
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Old 04-17-2019, 06:12 AM
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If you'll never bottom out your oil pan then my pick is the second one with more open area.

The first one is far less likely to crush down from a pan hit cut to its stamped steel cover , but it will still likely bend up the tube just before it enters the pump and maybe crush it at that point anyway from what have seen from motors in junk yards!

On both pickups the 3/4" tube opening is still the main restriction so even that first pick up will do the job.

I don't think potential rust comes into play here as even the whole pump body itself is submerged in oil if it's atleast a 5 Qt pan.

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Old 04-18-2019, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abefromen View Post
Ok so is one better than the other or no difference?

The one with the cover over more than half the screen vs the one with the "strap" across the middle?

Both available but the strap version is more common from what I've seen.

One ebay seller even goes as far to say this about the second one pictured:


The pick up without protective cover has a strap across the bottom that reduces screen surface area potentially impeding flow. Is not coated to prevent rust. Cheaper to manufacture.


I'm not so sure about that but what do I know
The first pic shows the OE screen style we used to refer at the Pontiac dealer as the "tooth catcher". That style would pack-up absolutely solid with the nylon cam gear teeth as they shredded off over time in OE applications. It was amazing how effective that D-scoop style pick-up was at collecting all the teeth. It would be packed solid, greatly reducing oil flow and only 1 or 2 teeth would still be floating around in the pan. With a steel timing set, I don't think it makes any difference between the two which one you use. If your racing, you need a better pan and pick-up anyway.

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Old 04-18-2019, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgarblik View Post
The first pic shows the OE screen style we used to refer at the Pontiac dealer as the "tooth catcher". That style would pack-up absolutely solid with the nylon cam gear teeth as they shredded off over time in OE applications. It was amazing how effective that D-scoop style pick-up was at collecting all the teeth. It would be packed solid, greatly reducing oil flow and only 1 or 2 teeth would still be floating around in the pan. With a steel timing set, I don't think it makes any difference between the two which one you use. If your racing, you need a better pan and pick-up anyway.
Agree, on the D-Scoop style. Replaced a bunch of the engine oil pumps (and several engines that suffered from the Nylon Gear failures packing up the oil pump inlet) at the Pontiac Dealership. Not one of Pontiac Engineering's better ideas.

Tom V.

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Old 04-18-2019, 08:49 AM
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Then again in there defense, the engineer's never thought a car owner would go over 75'000 miles without replacing the timing chain & gears!

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Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs!
And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs!

1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set.

Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks.

1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes.
Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph.

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Old 04-18-2019, 06:28 PM
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Why would a CAR OWNER EVEN KNOW ABOUT A TIMING CHAIN POTENTIAL FAILURE?

That makes absolutely no sense. People drive vehicles to put miles on them.
Some have run "Non Failure Mode" Pontiac Timing Chains over 150,000 miles
without any noticeable drivability issues.
Maybe the Pontiac FEAD dumb aze Engineer thought that but most Engineers would not ASSUME any of that.

They assume that the engine will last 100K minimum, even in the 60s.
The Government was requiring 50K DURABILITY for the Emissions components.
A couple of Pontiac Guys have closer to 200,000 miles on an engine.
Course you have to drive 50 miles out west to buy a decent shirt at a store too.

Tom V.

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Old 04-18-2019, 06:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve25 View Post
Then again in there defense, the engineer's never thought a car owner would go over 75'000 miles without replacing the timing chain & gears!
Engineers were at the mercy of the bean counters, and the factory in general only cared that the car would run through it's warranty period anyway. After that you were on your own.

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Old 04-18-2019, 08:37 PM
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Anything wrong with this Moroso 24482 screen???

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The description says it bolts in, but another descriptions says press in. Moroso makes some good stuff. Did not look like it could bolt up to pump...

I used a screenassy with a similar sized screen on a small block Chevy. I wanted to keep from brazing or welding a screen assy. on after reading potential of weld breaking, here. Engine was for a friend. I did not EVER want the screen falling off. THe Moroso screen assy for the common Chevy 350 pressed in AND attached to the pump housing with 2 of it's housing bolts

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Last edited by 77 TRASHCAN; 04-18-2019 at 08:42 PM.
  #12  
Old 04-18-2019, 08:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 77 TRASHCAN View Post
Anything wrong with this Moroso 24482 screen???
I guess it is ok if all you want to do is keep the large "boulders" out of the pump or it you rebuild your engine every year. Probably be perfect on a Drag Car or a car that has the filter changed after every race event thru out the season.

Street Driven Vehicle, not on my vehicle.

Tom V.

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  #13  
Old 04-18-2019, 09:56 PM
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Wasn't this style original equipment on SD455's? PMD did that to help keep from unporting the pickup on hard RH turns, trapdoor pans notwithstanding. The intake hole is substantially bigger than the connector tube to the pump, so it's not a restriction. I used this pickup together with a trapdoor pan and haven't had any issues yet with unporting the pickup on my B-body-spindled 66 GTO.

The lower cover is offset down so that the entire screen is used.


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Old 04-18-2019, 10:38 PM
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If I remember correctly the pickup with the scoop has a small trap door inside the scoop. When working for Pontiac many years ago we were required to pull the oil pan whenever we replaced a nylon timing gear to clean out the teeth and check the bearings. Several times I found teeth in the main journal's oil holes. Somehow they passed the screen and the filter.

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Old 04-19-2019, 06:15 PM
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Most critical thing, is how far off the bottom of the oil plan, it ends up when pump is bolted in. Shouldn’t be anymore then 1/2”. My pick would be #2.

Mark it up on motor, bolted in, put some Clay or putty on top...bolt pan down, then remove and measure clay or putty.

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Old 04-19-2019, 08:11 PM
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GOOD TIP GACH! One that is misses by a lot of people when they install a aftermarket screen. They assume it is ok.

Tom V.

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  #17  
Old 04-19-2019, 11:03 PM
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3/8" seems to be the magic number to shoot for. Have read it here and from others.

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  #18  
Old 03-15-2020, 11:11 PM
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Ok I have 1.100 clearance from screen to pan.With screen inserted into the pumps little casing indent.Clearance verified with clay and boroscope looking up
through drain plug.How do I get clearance close to 3/8 with out having to take a big hammer to bottom of pan?

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  #19  
Old 03-16-2020, 03:05 AM
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Joe, you need a dropped pickup from Milodon. 18425 pickup is for an 8" depth pan.

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Old 03-16-2020, 06:41 AM
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At this point you weld a BBC pick up on and position it where you want it.

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