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#1
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Engine paint on new parts?
Getting ready to start my 455 build soon. However I’m completely on the fence about if I should paint my shiny, brand new aluminum heads and intake manifold with Pontiac metallic blue, or leave them “raw”.
What’s the general opinion? If I do paint them, am I going to wish that I didn’t, or is the topside easier to keep clean and maintain if it’s unfinished? I’ve always been a “Hand-me-down, Craigslist used parts” kind of guy. Obviously I’m not used to these fancy brand new parts. I feel so spoiled! Oooooooo! Shiny objects hahaha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#2
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Both of those are much easier to clean off oil and antifreeze spills and other cap when they are bare should that be a consideration for you.
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I do stuff for reasons. |
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#3
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I'm keeping it as is natural. Motor, heads and all.
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1968 Firebird IAIIa 522 340 E-heads Northwind with XFlow TBI 4L80E 3.50:1 Rear |
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#4
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I am painting all of my Edelbrock components, heads and intake, Pontiac Blue. I want it to look plain and unassuming. I want it to look like a stock 70's Firebird motor. I will be using the stock looking chrome valve covers on it also.
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#5
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All owners preference...my engine bay looks like Summit racing and SD performance got dumped under the hood..buddy Andy's is more stealthy stock looking with paint and some hidden tricks.
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466 Mike Voycey shortblock, 310cfm SD KRE heads, SD "OF 2.0 cam", torker 2 373 gears 3200 Continental Convertor best et 10.679/127.5/1.533 60ft 308 gears best et 10.76/125.64/1.5471 |
#6
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Quote:
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#7
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If I spent that money on fancy parts, I'd want to show them off. At a regular cruise in, people won't give a second look at the blue parts. You can always paint them later.
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#8
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I painted my Edelbrock round ports. But then I didn't install them as an upgrade. They went in after I dropped a valve on my passenger 197 head. I always wanted a stock looking engine bay so I painted them. Apart from the angled spark plugs they do look pretty stock. I also ground the Edelbrock marks off the casting.
Sam
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-- Sam Agnew Where you come from is gone; where you thought you were going to, weren't never there; and where you are ain't no good unless you can get away from it. Ministry - Jesus Built My Hotrod |
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#9
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I would consider the environment the car is going to be stored in. If it’s going to be stored outside or in an area where there’s some moisture involved the bare aluminum will most likely take on some oxidation over time. If that were the case I would consider painting it Pontiac blue or maybe the Eastwood Aluma blast.
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'71 GTO, 406 CID, 60916, 1.65 HS, '69 #46 Heads 230CFM, 800CFM Q-jet, TH400, 12 Bolt 3.55 '72 Lemans, Lucerne Blue, WU2, T41, L78, M22, G80 |
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#10
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Quote:
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1967 Firechicken, 499", Edl heads, 262/266@0.050" duration and 0.627"/0.643 lift SR cam, 3.90 gear, 28" tire, 3550#. 10.01@134.3 mph with a 1.45 60'. Still WAY under the rollbar rule. |
#11
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Another vote for painting the aluminum parts engine color. I painted mine and used stock valve covers for a sleeper look. It is definitely easier to clean oil, etc off of paint. I painted my old intake after it turned green but there's a lot of moisture in the air here. Shouldn't be a problem for you in the desert.
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Chris D 69 GTO Liberty Blue/dark blue 467, 850 Holley, T2, Edelbrock Dport 310cfm w Ram Air manifolds, HFT 245/251D .561/.594L, T400, 9" w 3.50s 3905lbs 11.59@ 114, 1.57/ 60' |
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#12
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even if you paint them clear...you want to do something as mentioned the oxidation of white powdery crap takes its toll. FWIW the better the prep the better the paint will work! I am 100% anti-shine so I found that that a little scotchbrite and RUSTOLEUM flat bleck worked really well on my CHROME moroso valve covers, pulleys...etc.
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#13
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paint them aluminum color which can look pretty good & can also look pretty bad depending on the brand of paint & how its applied... or do what ive done for 12+ years now with aluminum parts, paint them with engine paint clear, if prepped good & applied thin but full coverage they will look like new & for me have lasted for well over a decade & going strong on things like alum intakes, water pumps, valve covers, & misc accessories. on my recent E-head stroker engine i used the engine clear on the heads too & they still look like the day i painted them 6+ years ago with lots of street miles, drag strip runs & even dyno time, plus they live in a humid climate & winter storage. the aluminum doesnt get as hot as iron heads & even the ex ports havent burnt off or even turned yellow... when i look at other raw heads or intakes etc im glad i did it because they look terrible all chalky & dull IMO. i use rustoleum engine clear, not sure how other brands will hold up, but this stuff doesnt turn yellow like some clears can. |
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#14
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I also thought about that VHT clear coat if the consensus was that painted parts clean up easier. On my ‘67 clone wagon, it seems like I was frequently having to touch up the engine paint especially over the exhaust ports. So far from everyone’s insightful comments (which I greatly appreciate, thanks guys) I’m leaning toward unpainted. The block and a few minor parts will be sporting the team colors to represent, but maybe I’ll try leaving the aluminum be just to see how I like it. Couple of mock up photos attached. Still waiting on back ordered parts of course, especially my ARP main studs. Can’t do much without those. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#15
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Put me in the non-flashy group. I got tired of mine looking like every other engine out there. De-badged the heads and took all the billet off and painted it all, changed plug wires and cap........I think it looks cleaner and it is easier to keep clean. Doesn't show smudges or road dust as bad. Hose is off with no polishing all the aluminum.
Had a 8 second "looking" engine in a 9 second car Now have a 11 second looking engine in a 9 second car
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66 GTO Nostalgia Super Stock/Street Legal Car 421 CID, stock block, Wenzler Intake, 2- Carter 750 AFB's, 3.90 Gears, Full Factory Interior, Full Exhaust, Stock Suspension 3750LBS 9.77@136.99 Multiple NSCA/NMCA World Champion 66 GTO 389 3x2, 4 speed, 4.33 gear, Montero Red 33K original Miles 67 GTO 2dr Post, 428, Tri Power, 3.55 Gears 80 Trans Am Black SE Y84 W72 WS6 Last edited by Mike Davis; 02-18-2022 at 01:33 PM. |
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#16
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Painting the preference here for more original Pontiac engine bay look. 20+ years ago showing off new aluminum heads might have been cool....
Plus aluminum looks dingy after a while. If you really love the silver/raw look, I suggest you Cerakote the parts then that color. But honestly your best bet I feel is to paint them the correct Pontiac blue. |
#17
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Intakes are hard to keep clean. Especially if you ever have minor fuel leaks. It turns brown and is hard to get clean. The porous aluminum is tough to get the dirt out of the cavities. All aluminum for that matter gets dirt in the porous surface and looks dirty and is hard to keep clean. I can see a clearcoat filling in those low spots so residue can't fill them.
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#18
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Totally forgot that VHT makes I high temp clear that I have used on bare Aluminum, and it works very well.
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I do stuff for reasons. |
#19
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I should mention I’ve never tried painting aluminum heads with aluminum color, so can’t say how it holds up. Can’t imagine it’s ant different than the blue? Maybe someone that has will chime in?
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'71 GTO, 406 CID, 60916, 1.65 HS, '69 #46 Heads 230CFM, 800CFM Q-jet, TH400, 12 Bolt 3.55 '72 Lemans, Lucerne Blue, WU2, T41, L78, M22, G80 |
#20
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Cerakote the aluminum parts (clear) and it will last forever.....
https://www.cerakote.com/shop/cerako...clear-aluminum |
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