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#1
10-31-2011, 07:49 PM
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Trunk spatter paint
I've been wanting to do something about my trunk for a while. There's some rust in there, so I decided now is the best time to attack it. The rust wasn't terrible, so I cleaned it all out real good then sealed it up using POR-15 clear. There were a couple small areas that I also had to patch with fiberglass mat. They were small and just POR-15 and the fiberglass worked pretty good.
Ok, so I'm real proud of the trunk work, but what to do to paint it? Well, I decided on using Eastwood's grey and white spatter paint. One thing I read though is that it's water based. They said just seal with their diamond clear. BIG mistake. I sprayed it so it looked real nice, then cleared it like they said too. Thought that would be it. By the way...I did 3 coats of the spatter, then 3 coats of clear. Let it cure for a few days, then put my mats back in feeling like it was a job well done. Well...I was out visiting a bud. Had my cooler in the trunk. Turns out the cooler leaked and water got under the mat and wreaked havoc on my nice, freshly painted trunk floor. Needless to say, I'm a bit peeved. I followed Eastwood's instructions thinking I'd be ok with that clear coat. It's not horrible yet, but I can envision a big mess eventually. Any of you guys come across a good spatter paint for trunks that ISN'T water soluable? Guess I'll have to strip it back to my POR-15 surface and do this over sometime. I don't have a spray gun, so I'm looking for something in a rattle can. What say ye? Thanks, Kevin PS. I'd recommend staying away from that Eastwood's trunk paint if you even THINK there'll be water getting in your trunk. I'm banging my head on the wall for thinking I'd be ok with it now. Last edited by mviker; 10-31-2011 at 07:55 PM. |
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#2
10-31-2011, 08:24 PM
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One of the things that I found with most of the trunk spatter paint is that you have to put on several thin layers or else it will not dry. Also, the paint must dry prior to putting the clear over the top. Not sure about your situation, but the clear should have prevented the water issue.
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Brad Hansen 65 Cat Ventura, 66 Cat Vert, 63 GP |
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#3
10-31-2011, 09:46 PM
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Well, I can't honestly say I followed things explicitly, but I figured I was probably safe. When putting down the spatter paint, I did allow it to dry, but maybe not completely. I was dry to the touch between each coat. I think I put down decent layers too. Did it all in the course of the day, then started with the clear the next day. The spatter directions said let it dry 24 hours. I probably gave it more like 18 or so, before the clear, so maybe that was it. In terms of feel, the spatter definitely felt dry. Who knows. I did the clear the next afternoon. Laid down nice coats and only after each other coat had set. Seemed fine. I left the trunk empty for another day with it open. Weather was sunny and dry for all of this.
I suppose anything is possible, but I felt I did a good job on it and took my time. I've got one more can of the clear. Guess I'll go ahead and try sealing it again with that. Most of the trunk did fare alright. It was just a few spots. It just seems that of all kinds of paint out there, why would the trunk paint not be waterproof? Something to do with the spatter effect? |
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#4
10-31-2011, 10:53 PM
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I haven't used this stuff, but it doesn't appear to need a topcoat. It might be worth trying.
http://www.duplicolor.com/products/trunkSpatter/ |
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#5
11-01-2011, 08:31 AM
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Last time I did one it was 100 degrees outside . I left the trunk open for 2 days and it still didnt seem to be dry.
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#6
11-01-2011, 10:14 AM
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I have used the duplicolor in the past a few times. This stuff comes out fast. I found that if you put to much on, it will not cure/dry for a very long time (months) I learned the hard way. The last time i used it i put on very thin layers and let them dry each time for a day and went back over for a total of 4 times to cover. The result looks good, but not even close to factory.
I think next time I may try to paint with the blue/teal and spatter white over the to see if I get a better result.
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Brad Hansen 65 Cat Ventura, 66 Cat Vert, 63 GP |
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#7
11-01-2011, 11:34 AM
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Any trunk spatter paint you use is water based.
Once you have applied the spatter paint... let it dry - for about 3 weeks! Then spray a flattened urethane clear on it. That will seal the spatter paint. -r-
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Never trust anything that bleeds for five days and won't die. |
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#8
11-01-2011, 07:37 PM
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Appreciate the input guys. At this stage, I think I'm going to just keep the trunk empty and dry for a while. I'd rather not mess with it since it's not terribly bad. Perhaps it will cure more if I just keep it dry and empty for a while. I'll try touching up the areas that were affected later on. IF it turns into a problem down the road, then I'll try again and be more diligent on the procedure. For the amount of water that did get in there, it actually held up ok. Only a couple small areas were affected.
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#9
11-01-2011, 09:21 PM
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Hey not sure what the temps are as you leave it to dry, but a couple of clip lights w/ (soon to be outlawed) 100W bulbs for a couple of days might also help.
What year did DarkSiders first get spatter paint in the trunks from the factory? (I'm guessing '65?) |
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#10
11-01-2011, 10:01 PM
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Matt,
The weather's been holding up ok, but yeah, getting chillier as fall approaches. That's one reason I did this when I did. It was pretty warm the days I worked on it. Funny you mention WHEN spatter paint was used. I am pretty sure the trunk should not have had it, but whoever had the car before me must have used it to cover the rust in the trunk. I bought the car from a dealer on the west coast and they pulled a couple tricks to sell the car. This was one of them. Anyhoo...the rust was coming up through the spatter paint job they did. I thought I'd better get ahead of it before it ate the rest of the trunk up. The POR-15 should do the trick, at least until I have enough dough to get the car into a real shop to get things fixed proper. I just thought the spatter job would look better than nothing at all over it. I'm just going to leave it be for a while. Maybe until spring hits. The big thing was getting a handle on the rust. We'll see how it goes... |
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#11
11-01-2011, 11:34 PM
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My 63 GP and 64 Bonneville both had Blue/Black Spatter paint in the trunks.
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#12
11-02-2011, 11:49 AM
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1963 was the first year - I think -
I've had similar issues with spatter paint - mostly from "sweating" between the mat and floor - redid my '63 with Duplicolor and clear coat - now I just leave the rubber mat out and don't seem to have any problems - just throw a towel down when I want to carry stuff in the trunk on road trips - Dave B.
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Have the Most Fun at Pheasant Run - 2012 
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#13
11-02-2011, 12:10 PM
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I've experenced the same drying problems when using the splatter paint. Lately I've painted the trunk with light gray primer then just dusted the splatter paint over the primer to give the splatter effect. The gray primer provides the color with just enough splatter paint to get the effect. Works for me
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Tommy's Early Muscle Cars 1959 Pontiac Catalina Sport Coupe 3x2 3 speed manual 1960 Pontiac Ventura 425A / 4 speed 1961 Pontiac Catalina Tri Power / 4 speed 1961 Ford Starliner 390 / 401/ 4 speed 1962 Corvette 327/300 / 4 speed 1962 Gran Prix Tri Power / 4 speed 1963 Pontiac Catalina 421/ 4 speed 1964 Pontiac Catalina 3x2 / 4 speed |
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#14
11-02-2011, 12:10 PM
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What did the factory use?
Have always wondered why the original stuff held up so much better.
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"If you do everything you'll win" -LBJ 13 Smiles per Gallon: 66 Bonneville wagon 66 Bonneville 2d HT - In perpetual progress |
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#15
11-02-2011, 01:15 PM
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My buddy has a body shop, I will ask him what he uses. When I did my 442 it was dry in a hour or so, and I never had any problems with it. I will give him a call.
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#16
11-02-2011, 04:26 PM
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Ok the brand in the GM brand that you can get from the parts department, it comes in a larger than a spray can bottle, If I remember correctly you hook up air to it and spray. Hope this helps. If not the next time I am down at the shop I will get the GM part number off of the bottle.
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#17
11-05-2011, 12:13 AM
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If painting over POR15 I think you're supposed to use their (POR15) primer first to etch the surface for the topcoat to adhere. If you didn't use the etching primer maybe it didn't seal the two finishes from each other and didn't let the spatter to dry or adhere properly. Just my wag.
Doug.... |
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#18
11-06-2011, 11:37 AM
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64's had spatter paint for sure. 63's have been hit and miss from what I've seen.
My 65 GTO's spatter paint was almost the texture of undercoating. It's a Cali built car. Mike
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so many pontiacs, so little time.................. moderator is a glorified word for an unappreciated prick.................. "Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former." --Albert Einstein "There is no such thing as a good tax." "We contend that for a nation to tax itself into prosperity is like a man standing in a bucket and trying to lift himself up by the handle." - Winston Churchill |
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#19
11-07-2011, 08:33 AM
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Doug,
I read the can and yep, skipped the primer, but I did scuff up the POR-15 with 60 grit sandpaper real good. Seems to be holding up well aside from this issue. I just wanted to stop or slow down the rust. If I have my way, one day the car will get sent to a body shop to get all the body issues straightened out once and for all. Of course, that means I need a garage first. No sense in restoring it completely if I have no place to store it out of the weather. Due time...*sigh* Quote:
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#20
11-07-2011, 07:49 PM
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I bought this stuff and will get a chance to try it in about 2 months or so after I get the new quarter panel in place.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRUNK-AQUA-B...item3c983da76b Listing and description says it is petroleum based and does not need a clear top coat. Anyone try this? It comes from The Parts Place, Inc. Their add says,"We now have the correct formula trunk paint used by the OEM manufacturers when the cars were made. The paint is sold by the quart. There is more than enough to do several trunks floor and sides with this quart. Paint must be applied by a primer gun or one of the cheap Taiwan paint guns. You will NOT need to clear coat like most all other trunk splatter paints on the market. Lies out like the factory concours quality and comes complete with directions. This is a petroleum based product like no other on the market. Aqua / Black color issued on most all GM years" I'll see what happens unless someone has tried this with bad results and lets me know!!! |
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