[Fullback66]

Originally Posted by Sirrotica

More than once I have repaired cars with this symtom by not doing anything to the starter, or the positive cable.

Take the ground cable off of the engine and look carefully at it. Many times it will loosen up, or corrode with rust at the head bolt connection. Remember that the positive side has to be in good condition, but so does the negative path back to the battery. The negative cable connection can look perfect by just glancing at it, but when you disassemble it you might be in for a surprise of a high resistance corrosion that is undetectable without removing the nut from the head bolt. When the connection gets hot from engine heat, and expands it will make higher resistance. You'd be surprised how many times people overlook the negative side of the system when hunting hot start problems.

There should also be a star washer to promote a good connection between the bolt and the cable, sometimes it gets discarded when the negative cable gets removed, and replaced.

Good information.
I will give it a try.

[graygator]

I once had a 1982 Trans Am (yeah, 305 SBC) I bought new and later converted to a carburetor and HEI. It was bad about being very hard to start hot. The starter would try but the engine seemed to be kicking back. I had bought the HEI out of a junkyard and the mechanical advance was rusty and would stick in the far advanced position. Once I fixed that it was fine.
On the other hand, lots of good advice here about using big cables, good grounds and terminals, and a mini starter.

[dataway]

Not sure about a 67, but on a 68 that purple wire can be a pain ... it's often roasted pretty good. On a 68 it runs all the way back to the neutral safety switch on the shifter and then back up to the dash ... I've seen them in very burnt condition at the shifter (automatic).

[carcrazy]

I've never had the issue with a stock car! However, I have experienced the issue on modified cars with headers. Generally I put on larger diameter cables, use a mini starter (Robbmc) and a heat barrier on the headers where they are close to the starter.

[Fullback66]

I cleaned my negative wire. I noticed one thing. The bolt to negative wire is connected to power steering bracket Right behind the alternator. It's always been there since 2000.
My negative wire could use an update.
Not sure if that's a good place.
FB66

[Greg Reid]

See the attached photos in post #20. That's where it should be.

[ZeGermanHam]

If you're not concerned with originality, you have some options. Since keeping ground wires as short as possible is a best practice, I chose to attach my battery ground cable to the cylinder head on the forward stud rather than the stud between the #1 and #3 cylinders. It allows for less cable length and slightly cleaner routing.

[Fullback66]

Thanks Z
I like that look
FB66

[Fullback66]

Z
Is that 1 gauge wire?

[Fullback66]

I don't have a bolt that has the extra threads for the cable.
Where do I get that?
FB66

[ZeGermanHam]

Yes, it is 1-gauge wire. I bought them from BatteryCablesUSA.com and ordered them to length with the ends of my choosing crimped on. Very affordable price and they are very high quality.

https://www.batterycablesusa.com/1-g...able-with-ends

Not sure where to source the bolt/stud, but I imagine others here will know. I bet people have them sitting in buckets in their garages/shops from engine disassembly, etc.

[Greg Reid]

I actually have my ground cable in the same location...in fact, I'm pretty sure that's the stock location for '68.. I even bolted the positive cable pass-through tube to the same bolt and routed the positive under the block to the starter. I couldn't install it into the normal spot between 5 and 7 because of the RA manifolds.

FB66, do you not have a studded head bolt in the second spot as shown in my photo? My '66 engine doesn't have the first studded bolt either. Only the two on either side of the center exhaust ports. I never noticed that before but they might have changed the ground location sometime between '66 and '68.

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[Fullback66]

This is where my negative is bolted right now. Yellow arrow.

[Fullback66]

No thread bolt.

[Fullback66]

There's one in back

[Greg Reid]

Yeah, I'm pretty sure someone put the wrong head bolt there. You should have had at least one more threaded head right between the 1 and 3 plugs. I think they probably moved it to the front for the ground in the later years so they could use the second one for the front end of the exhaust shroud. It's missing on yours and that's why they put ground on the ps bracket.

[242177P]

Whoa. Factory headers, without the rerouted wiring?
There might not be anything wrong with your starter.
Extend existing wires with splices if you have to.

https://www.amesperf.com/parts/23387/

[OZZIEVILLE 67 2 door]

I've been down the heat soak rabbit hole.
My advice is buy a new powemaster 9150 xs torque and all your problems will disappear.

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[Greg Reid]

Good eye 242177P.

[Fullback66]

Originally Posted by 242177P

Whoa. Factory headers, without the rerouted wiring?
There might not be anything wrong with your starter.
Extend existing wires with splices if you have to.

https://www.amesperf.com/parts/23387/

242
I guess I am not sure exactly what you are talking about. I do have factory exhaust manifolds. Where should the wire be? I am thinking of getting new 1 gauge wires.
Please help me out
FB66