[Nyairguard]

sure this has been hammerd out
1/2 3/4 or full groove? 4040m good choice
street use maybe a smoke show once and a while ya right

just recieved my lifters sealed power ht951 box has made in china ugh!

[TransAm 474]

Its personal preference, but I prefer the 3/4 groove bearing in everything. I would NOT use those lifters however, I would instead buy a set of good USA Hylift-Johnson from Topline Automotive. You will be money waaayy ahead, if one of those China lifters go flat, which is very likely...

[Nyairguard]

sending back asap, looked up those johnson lifters cant find any hft for pontiac

[TransAm 474]

Contact member "Paul K" here on the forum, he is a dealer for them. That is who I buy my Hylift-Johnson HFT lifters from. Execellent guy to deal with.

[Half-Inch Stud]

3/4 Mains should be the optimal for drop-in solutions without going nutty on block or/and crank.

Lifters: what a bringdown. Maybe a hardness test before tossing back.

[25stevem]

The determining factor here is what crank you are running and if it’s cross drilled to oil the rods better or not.

Factory standard production 3.00” main cranks are not cross drilled so the are built with fully grooved bearings.

For a street or even street / strip motor spinning under 5800 rpm a 3/4 groove bearing is fine, but if your going to need to go over 5800 plus make over 500 Hp I would have the crank cross drilled and run a 1/2 groove bearing.

[chiphead]

4040M here. The nice thing about the 4040M is you can get them in .001" tighter version. I had to do that on my 434 build, because the scat crank was at low side of tolerance and housing bores were at high side. So that gave .004" at the rear main, too loose! Be sure to check the oil clearance with a dial bore gauge and mics. I like .0023" to .0029" on mains for 3" main performance street engine.

[dataway]

The Melling lifters I bought only about five years ago were US made.

In the engine right now, with a set of NOS GM lifters set aside waiting just in case.

In my case the set of Hylift-Johnson lifters did not work out in combination with a Melling cam. Both ended up replaced shortly after startup. So far so good with the Melling cam and Melling lifters.

[Jay S]

Bulter has HLJ lifters listed

https://butlerperformance.com/i-3164...tegory:1234799


Last I knew the hardened foot lifters like Dataway’s picture of Melling are not in production right now.

[dataway]

Thanks Jay, I didn't know that.

Rock Auto shows them in stock ... but I have no idea if the actual lifter is still the same.

[Nyairguard]

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/200131/10002/-1

Made in USA states look like melling


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[Nyairguard]

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[geeteeohguy]

Originally Posted by Half-Inch Stud

3/4 Mains should be the optimal for drop-in solutions without going nutty on block or/and crank.

Lifters: what a bringdown. Maybe a hardness test before tossing back.

On the research I've done, it seems that the lifters are hard enough, but are not crowned properly so they won't spin on the cam or they are oversized internally so the plunger is loose and they bleed down/leak at all times. Also, new cams have been found to have lobes ground with no taper, so the lifter will not spin and the cam will fail on break-in.
So rocking the lifters on a piece of glass, testing them in oil for blow-by, and measuring the cam lobes for taper (.001-.002") is a great plan if installing 'new' flat tappet stuff that isn't NOS.

[JEC3039]

Nyairguard -
Regarding Hy-Lift Johnson lifters, you can order them directly from Hy-Lift if you wish. Send an email to Dave Ewert ("dave@toplineauto.com") and ask him for a quote on whichever lifter version you have in mind - 951, 951-R or 951-S. Topline Automotive is the Hy-Lift parent company.

For an explanation of what each version is, search toplineautomotive.com/catalog and read over their tech brochure. LOTS of good information about lifter design and manufacturing, plus the breakdown of the lifter types (OEM = wide range standard bleed, R = narrow range fast bleed, S = narrow range slow bleed). Each one has a different purpose. You decide what's right for you, then as Ewert for a price. Hy-Lift ships direct to you.

[cressy]

The 4040M ( 3" main ) bearings are listed as 1/2 groove but pictures look like 3/4 groove and 113M bearings are listed as 3/4 groove and look like 3/4" groove in pictures so what are the differences?
Are the 113M bearings ok for street cars?
Thanks

[Nyairguard]

seen that myself the fine print says racing only??

[Half-Inch Stud]

FWIW: i had a recent set of new lifter that would not pump up with my oil fixture. Really bummed. Sold the Short block to a Racer and told him about that.

[phil400]

These are some 4040M 10 bearings I bought for a 400 build, I can't run these with a factory 400 crank?

[Jay S]

I don’t think most Pontiac’s on the street are very picky on the main bearings material or oiling groove design. The FM race bearings don’t have any tin flashing on the overlay for corrosion. Corrosion isn’t really one of the top concerns on most engines.

Only thing I have found is a trimetal bearing (versus stock type bimetal) with tight oil clearances, often on an inspection can look like they are wearing poorly if all the machining isn’t perfect and or the machining was on the tight side of tolerance’s. The trimetal bearing take more abuse on higher HP apps, but the trade off is the babbit is thinner on a trimetal versus a bi metal stock type. The most common main bearing failures on Pontiac’s are on the thrust…which usually the FM race bearing have better thrust design for more oiling than a standard bearing(another reason to use them)… The other common wear issue I have seen is the back bearing is suppose to have more clearance than the front 4, but is often tighter for some reason after a line hone, and often will show more wear than the front 4 bearings.

[phil400]

Originally Posted by Jay S

I don’t think most Pontiac’s on the street are very picky on the main bearings material or oiling groove design. The FM race bearings don’t have any tin flashing on the overlay for corrosion. Corrosion isn’t really one of the top concerns on most engines.

Only thing I have found is a trimetal bearing (versus stock type bimetal) with tight oil clearances, often on an inspection can look like they are wearing poorly if all the machining isn’t perfect and or the machining was on the tight side of tolerance’s. The trimetal bearing take more abuse on higher HP apps, but the trade off is the babbit is thinner on a trimetal versus a bi metal stock type. The most common main bearing failures on Pontiac’s are on the thrust…which usually the FM race bearing have better thrust design for more oiling than a standard bearing(another reason to use them)… The other common wear issue I have seen is the back bearing is suppose to have more clearance than the front 4, but is often tighter for some reason after a line hone, and often will show more wear than the front 4 bearings.

Ok thanks