[Steve C.]

Store fuel in such a way that it is not exposed to daylight. UV-proof dark fuel jugs. When it comes to race gas jugs I've been told the red is the best color.


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[GT182]

49 of the 50 States have nonethanol gas pumps, but you have to search them out. Not every gas station has it. Delaware is the only State that doesn't have them. Not even for marine engines. There's list of them and Delaware is on it, but only shows one place that sells it in 5 gallon cans or 55 gallon drums of 95, 98, and 100 octane.

Find VR-1 (C9 96 octane) or Sunoco nonethanol gas at Autoparts stores. We have them here with it that the guys at the racetracks use. It's been running around $15/gallon. Some cheaper some more expensive. I buy it in 5-gallon cans for my push mover, generator, and weed wacker/trimmer. Cost is too much tho for the GTO. But I do once in a great while and mix it with the ethanol regular gas. And yes, the GTO's 400 will run on E-10 87 octane gas. It was built and set up for it by an ex Py member.

Just hope we aren't forced to use E-85. Cars built before 1212 cannot run it. Therefore, we'd all be scrod running our classic cars.

[Cliff R]

There is no need to avoid fuel with ethanol it in for one of these vehicles. I've been using it succesfully with ZERO issues since it first came out.

You do have to be smart about it as in any vented system it's going to soak up some water, but that's been going on with plain gasoline dating back to the early 70's when I got involved in this hobby. It's just a little worse with ethanol.

Modern fuel blends actually have a few qualities that make them better than early fuels, like not turning to a thick sticky paste when you let the car sit for many years. Any older fuel left in the fuel bowl will be like epoxy glued to the bottom of the bowl and all parts it was covering. Modern fuel will have evapoarated away and at most left a little "apple jelly" in the bottom of the carb if any water was present with it.

Modern fuel lacks energy but the slower burning rate makes it work very well with higher compression engines. You just have to add about 5-7 percent more of it to get the energy/BTU content needed, then it's an excellent fuel for these older higher compression engines.

In small power equipment is where is does most of the damage. If left for long periods of time (common with chain saws, string trimmers, power washers and other seasonal equipment) it forms "apple jelly" in the bottom of the fuel tank and often in the carburetor as well. This requires dumping the tank and cleaning out the carb more times than not.

In cars, we just need to use them couple of times a month (more often is better than the other way around) and add back to the fuel in the tank and seldom, if ever will you have any problems anyplace.

IF you plan on putting the car up for long periods of time it is a good idea to run the engine till it sucks the carb empty, if you have a way to accomplish that. If you are going to go out past a year or so the tank needs to be drained as the octane rating goes WAY down to a point where the fuel will barely burn at all unless you put a pretty good heat source to it. I see this a LOT with standby generator sets that get used once, then called upon 3-5 years later and REFUSE to run well, or at all simply becuase the fuel is too hard to ignite.

Even with all that said if you can avoid ethanol blended fuels you don't have to take too many "special" steps or procedures, but you still need to make sure that you don't go years without using the vehicle and expect everything to be fine the next time you get the car out. Fuel still goes bad, and has negative effects on things that stay soaked in it in the long haul........FWIW.....

['ol Pinion head]

Certain fuel systems can handle E10 better than others. I have always been able to notice a significant decrease in mileage when running E10 in the four 4.0 XJ Cherokees we've owned. The first one I owned ran the best, got the best mileage on the hwy, also was kept in great tune, & had a free flowing dynomax cat & muffler on it for near the last 150k miles. The last XJ we bought is a 97. It was my sons HS vehicle. Its FI system is different than the earlier ones. Never has run great. As the '97 is clean, rustfree, & I really NEED need a dependable short wheelbase 4WD SUV for a few specific tasks, the '97 will be getting a 5.3 LS swap. Years ago, when EI0 was first brought into my local market, there was an uproar from many enthusiasts. There was a local enthusiast that owned a low mile Honda De Sol from the mid 90's. This owner detailed at great lengths on the GasBuddy forum all the efforts he went through on his very well maintained small Honda, how much mileage he was leaving on the table running a full tank of E10. It was near 23%!!! I've never seen anything like that, but have recorded over 12% in a prev 91 XJ.

As far as BIO DIESEL goes, LOVES is typically 25-40 cents higher per gal on their diesel (bio diesel) than many competitors are on straight diesel. I've driven all over the central part of the "country" & LOVES "diesel" fuel has been really expensive for the last 15 years. Years ago i came to the conclusion, as a small guy, filling up w them, you are simpl screwed on price per gal. Only way for a lower price per gal is the fleet price for big transportation haulers.

Will continue to buy the lubricity/cetane boost additive for my early 98 12V Cummins Dodge. The additive i use mixed in known straight diesel from several local Valero's cost, last check, adds aprox 8 cents a gal. Been using an additive since 2006 when the Feds instituted ULSD.
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Buzzards gotta eat... same as worms.

[nas t eh]

Originally Posted by Sirrotica

One ounce to a gallon, is what I used. comes out to 128 to 1 ratio.

As far as newer diesels, there is a post on a forum about additives that add lubricity to ULSD diesel here:

https://www.dieselplace.com/threads/.../#post-3870887

I have never owned a newer diesel, so I can't comment as far as practical knowledge.

5% bio diesel has more lubricant property than the sulphur did and more than you get adding Howe’s or Lubricity at the prescribed amount on the bottle. Never saw a study about using 2 cycle oil.
I had a 6.2, a 6.5TD and a Duramax over the years(20+ years of diesel ownership), ran Lubricity (and Howe’s at times)in them all with great results, but also looked for fuel with bio deisel mixed in any chance I could.

[The Champ]

FWIW - E10 got a bad rap years ago because some of the aftermarket electric in tank fuel pumps couldn't handle the ethanol without failing. Several of them (Airtex was one of them) took way too long to figure out why their pumps were failing.

All of them now make ethanol capable pumps, but 10 years ago when I was working for an ACDelco warehouse distributor, I had several customers who had had multiple aftermarket replacement fuel pumps fail. Having to replace fuel pumps multiple times when you have to drop the tank really sucks.

I always had ACD, MTC and Mopar pumps available that were ethanol capable. Airtex finally figured out the problem, but it took years for them to PROVE it to independent repair shops (I know because we handled Airtex as an aftermarket brand).

[Formulabruce]

My big can "NOS" but built in the late 80's Pontiac fuel pump seal where can crimps the aluminum mount just decided to shower one day about a year into e-10. Seems most manufacturers have addressed this. Including Airtex.

[The Champ]

Originally Posted by Formulabruce

Seems most manufacturers have addressed this. Including Airtex.

That's what I said, but they were very slow on the uptake and got a deserved bad rap until they finally fixed the problem.