[DAVE9202]

Hello, When the car is cold and first start the engine. It blows out a lot of smoke and if you look down in the center carb you can see fuel dropping down. I have cut the Power Valve spring to the point it does not seem to have any spring pressure. When the motor is hot is idles great and does not drop fuel into the carb. I have tried adjusting the choke open a little, but then it will go dead when you let off the pedal. I have 11 vaccum.
455 30 over and Eheads, aluminum intake, no crossover.
Thank you for your help again.
Dave

[67cruiser]

Dave, im no expert by any means but the problem is in the idle circuit, Pull the venturi out of center carb and check the dia. of the holes(on the end) in the 2 tubes, they should be on the outboard side of the venturi, you may have to open them up by .002 and try that.
Best way i can explain it, put your hands around you throat and slowly sqeeze, yes your getting air but not enough, release your hands or put a bigger hole in your throat and you get all the air you want. Most carbs. today and yesteryear. run very lean, i believe this should take care of your problem or call Mike from Mike,s tri-ppower,s he should also be able to help you out with otherthings.

[Tripower455]

Try disabling the choke. It's not gonna work right with no crossover anyway. If it doesn't spillover when hot, it's probably something with the choke.

If it is adjusted for proper mixture hot, it should be very lean when cold. Yours is running rich if it's blowing black smoke cold. My first thought was a stuck power valve, but if it doesn't do it hot, that's probably not it, unless your vacuum when cold is low enough to open it.

I have a very similar setup, and I was never able to get a choke (thermal or electric) to work right. I just pump the pedal for the first few minutes until it'll run by itself, then let it warm up a few more minutes before driving it.


If it runs fine hot, then I wouldn't mess with the idle circuit, since it is always adjusted at operating temperature......

["QUICK-SILVER"]

When/if fast idle for the choke props the throttle blades open far enough, air will start pulling fuel out of the boosters. If it quits when the engine gets warm and choke releases all the way, that's probably whats happening.

Big if but possible, and can be adjusted out.

[DAVE9202]

I have an electric choke. If I open or disable the choke, when I start out driving the car (68 Firebird with Auto) if I take my foot of the gas pedel the motor goes dead. I drive the car about 4 miles and I have to make a Right hand turn, almost slow to a stop, and the car would go dead in the turn everytime. With the Choke adjusted not to open up for about 15 min. it does ok. I have 1973 2 barrells for carbs.. I have opened up the venturi, but I have been talking with MiKe and my have replaced with a stock set before this problem started. I have had many problems with this setup and it is close to working Ok, just looks bad at car shows when you start it up and all this smoke comes out.
Thanks
Dave

[Tripower455]

Good point QS......

Give us more info about the setup... is it a stock setup? I assume it's '66 since you said you had the aluminum intake, and I don't think they made a '65.

If it's a stock '66 center, like Quick Silver said, the throttle blades might be open too far in order to let enough air in for the big inch engine to idle (sorta) right and it's pulling fuel through the main circuit.

[Tripower455]

Ditch the choke. I pulled what little hair I have left out trying to make an electric retrofit choke work right with my setup (462, ported aluminum tripower, ported ends, Jet circle track in the center, KRE 290 Dports), and was never able to make it work.

I could make it work properly when cold, but then it would partially close when the vac dropped at WOT, richening the mixture.... alot (I run a LM-1 all the time in the car).... It would also close partially when the car was parked for a while, but not allowed to cool down, making hot starts a miserable experience.

If I adjusted it to the point where it would run right hot (not choke the engine whenit wasn't supposed to), it did nothing cold. Now, the coil just holds the choke full open all the time, and I have the pulloff and power wire disconnected.

The few minutes it takes to warm up is preferable to the PITA of dealing with the choke while driving, IMHO.