[ejw]

When say more front end travel - is that through springs or shocks, I can adjust stop on upper arms to drop more

[Scott65]

At the most basic level, it's the distance allowable before the upper control arm bump hits the frame. But the springs (ride height) will affect it. And the shocks CAN affect it, if they are the limiter. That's a situation you don't want, and should check for so you don't destroy shocks...

[grandville455]

When I was setting mine up, I called Ron at Santhuff and told him what my current ride height was and that i wanted to drop it a 1" -1 1/2" So he sent me 200 Rate springs and I sat the car right on the bottom bump stop and then cut that in half
and i took out the bump stop in the upper arm, I have 6" of travel now measured from fender lip at rest and then again jacked up and the suspension stops moving.

[ponjohn]

Before you change anything, create a drawing or spreadsheet with all of the current measurements. Use a static spot on the body to measure ride height, jack it up by the front subframe and record the the dimension where there tires stop touching the ground.

All of this info will assist you down the road as a base line. Maybe once all of your adjustments are done, bring it to a shop and align it at ride height.

[Rob B]

As Darby mentioned, a go pro or similar style camera under the car is your friend! I discovered real quick that my rear shocks were just at the point of topping out, something so simple and easy to fix can make for big headaches, especially when you think you had enough travel to begin with. And get it set up for as much front end travel as possible.

[cosgrove]

Originally Posted by grandville455

I have 6" of travel now measured from fender lip at rest and then again jacked up and the suspension stops moving.

Then, when you put in a more powerful engine, you will limit the travel to 2-3 inches to keep the front end down lol. You got a lot of travel there Darby!

[Scott65]

Originally Posted by cosgrove

Then, when you put in a more powerful engine, you will limit the travel to 2-3 inches to keep the front end down lol. You got a lot of travel there Darby!

Or if you wanna try some pro tree classes...

[slowbird]

Originally Posted by cosgrove

Then, when you put in a more powerful engine, you will limit the travel to 2-3 inches to keep the front end down lol. You got a lot of travel there Darby!

Lol i just had this talk a couple weeks ago. When you first start out you spend your time loosening things up and getting more travel, then as you start making more power you spend your time tightening and limiting travel. You also find yourself shifting weight back to the front instead of moving it back.

[grandville455]

Originally Posted by cosgrove

Then, when you put in a more powerful engine, you will limit the travel to 2-3 inches to keep the front end down lol. You got a lot of travel there Darby!

That's exactly true as Brian said too! Yea I've got plenty of travel now! Of course my headers are only 2 1/2" off the ground too lol. I'm already starting back the other way by tightening the fronts back up, I got a local guy working on my older QA1 single adj shocks, the comp is really tight on them as u dial up the rebound and the car never settles down etc, so he's making it a fixed comp , slightly stiffer then my Calverts, but this way i can tighten the rebound where it will really help the most, but will not effect the comp side. I totally believe I can get 1.33-1.35's out my car yet in better air on these SS Drag Radials !

[badgto]

It would be helpful if you knew where your weight was on your car. If you can find someone that does scale or has some to use. It would be worth it. Like for mine it weighs 3315. I have a ratio of 51% on front and 49% on the rear. I have used from 60 to 120 ballast in the trunk. After lots of testing. I have found mine like 60#. It needed help with weight transfer. Mine too would hook like yours right off the bat and then slip and hook again. Now it comes off the line a foot off the ground now and rides it 15-20' back nice smooth and no bouncing or slippage.

[CROCIE JR]

No expert either. More front rebound travel. More front rebound damping. Less rear rebound damping. Quickest and cheapest would be less rear rebound to get it to separate more. Assuming the rear shocks are truly long enough. Toward the top of rear rebound, the suspension will begin to impart some of its own damping. So creep up slowly. Reminds me of some old 8mm footage of my dads. They were fighting a similar issue with H-O Craigs SS car. Shocks we too short in the rear. That thing would get like 5-6 inches of fender gap. And picked up tenths!