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#1
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When adjusting the valves the poly lock set screw is just in by a couple of threads and I am not comfortable with that much engagement. Can I put a hardened washer between the rocker ball and the poly lock?
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Tim Corcoran |
#2
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Just thinking out loud...
Do you have the guide plates on? Perhaps you need different length pushrods if geometry is not good? Personally, if all is good I would shorten the stud or replace with an appropriate length stud or polylock before using a washer. I'd want the set screw to be almost flush at top of nut at minimum.. I recall HO made a kit with a hardened washers and lock nuts to make bolt down rockers adjustable. So I guess it would be ok, I just wouldn't do it myself. Last edited by STEELCITYFIREBIRD; 06-02-2020 at 05:39 PM. |
The Following User Says Thank You to STEELCITYFIREBIRD For This Useful Post: | ||
#3
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Just use a shorter stud, how long is yours?
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1967 Firechicken, 499", Edl heads, 262/266@0.050" duration and 0.627"/0.643 lift SR cam, 3.90 gear, 28" tire, 3550#. 10.01@134.3 mph with a 1.45 60'. Still WAY under the rollbar rule. |
#4
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washers OK. thousands of kits sold with no probs. A pack of SBC Hardened head bolt washers will do the job.
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GOOD IDEAS ARE OFTEN FOUND ABANDONED IN THE DUST OF PROCRASTINATION |
#5
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I have rocker studs that are too long too, for a reason.
I use Ford Cleveland Rocker Arm Studs m6527-C311 is the part number They 1.850" long and have used them for many years. I ran solid lifter cams during all of that time. I used regular length 7/16 Poly Locks but without the set screw. I used 7/16-20 NYLOCK NUTS (GRADE 8) on top of the poly locks. NEVER MOVED EVER. I bought a large box of the nuts that I still have with 98% of the nuts still there. So I do not worry around the stud length as I also run TALL valve covers. Just Saying. (The tall rocker covers are designed for stud stabilizer plates.) Tom V.
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
#6
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You could go with a shorter length poly lock as they do come in different lengths. But, to save a few bucks and use what you now have, try the washers under the poly lock. It may take 1 or 2, you'll have to judge it. I get hardened Grade 8 washers from Tractor Supply Company if you have one near by. You buy them by weight, not the pack/box, so they are very inexpensive. |
#7
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i have yet to have this issue. i have always have the right studs, rocker arm, rocker nut or poly lock combo i guess....lol
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1970 firebird, 468, e heads, |
#8
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Can really get confusing if you don't get a recommendation, or you have a set that may have a;ready been on the car and don't know what style/make they are. |
#9
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Pioneer part #S-1018 pack of 34 is under $8.50 on amazon. Either one has enough washers to do TWO engines with a few spares. Good luck! |
#10
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Thanks guys for the info a lot better to just put a washer on there than change the studs. Joe thanks a lot of the info on the washers I am going to order the Pioneer part #S-1018 on Amazon.
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Tim Corcoran |
#11
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You're coulpe of threads plus one wont give much adjusting room if lash needs tightened once you get it fired up. 7/16ths crimp nuts might be in you future. The gold colored ones made for aircraft are some mean son of a guns. They will not back off if studs are in good shape. Clay |
#12
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Probably would even work with three, but the more washers you stack, the closer to your valve covers the polylock bodies will get.
I think the Mr Gasket washers used to be thicker than .065" - but it's been a while. |
#13
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I am pretty sure one washer will be all I need.
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Tim Corcoran |
#14
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I ordered the pioneers from Amazon came in two days problem solved. Thanks Joe and Ken for the great advice.
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Tim Corcoran |
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