[Dragncar]

Do any of you guys know where to buy one of those adapters that take the little disc deleting the thermostat and has the two 1/2" female pipe threads to run 8 AN lines to the back of the heads ?

I bought on, so I thought I bought one from Precision Automotive Specialists and have been waiting forever.
So I get a E mail from Laurence Snyder who runs the outfit saying he wants to issue me a refund as he has the discs but can not get the water outlet manifold.

Is there another source for those little manifolds ? I could get rid of the crossover and use one of Marcellas manifolds and run the 3 hoses to each head but the engine is together and I do not want to go through all that right now.
Just want to keep it simple. I could drill and tap the back of my KRE crossover but I would rather not.
Thanks for any help on this.

[chuckies76ta]

http://www.precisionautomotivespecia...Manifolds.html

[Formulas]

I made my own rendition except iam using a full thermostat and two -6an hoses to the back of my E'heads this will give somewhat priority from the back of my engine nothing to drastic at -6an x 2
2 bypass holes through the thermostat because i limited the bypass at the timing cover to about a 1/4 inch

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by chuckies76ta

http://www.precisionautomotivespecia...Manifolds.html

Those are the ones you can not get right now.

[242177P]

https://www.summitracing.com/search/...r-neck-spacers

[Formulas]

Nitemare has an offering

http://nitemareperformance.com/waterneck-pro.html

no idea on availability

[hojs69]

Dragncar.....not sure you saw the linked post below;

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=866144

Smart folks, I hope they fix the business side of things.

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by 242177P

https://www.summitracing.com/search/...r-neck-spacers

Thanks, lots of choices there.
Now does anyone know if the Chevy versions will fit our Pontiac,s being GM and all ?

[mysticmissle]

you will have to oval the mounting holes as i believe the spacing is slightly wider

[R 70 Judge]

Chevy spacing is slightly narrower than a Pontiac but can be modified to fit. This piece made by All Star could probably get the job done. Check out this page from Summit Racing https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all30375

[R 70 Judge]

As you can see, I don’t think I can squeeze in a spacer in now that my throttle body goes forward but I’ll check this week to see how much it would be to have some adapters made on the cnc. I already have the step file made.

I’ll be honest though, the thought of shelling out $1000 to have 10 or 30 made (that I probably can’t use) and then waiting to recoup my money selling them doesn’t sound all that appealing at the moment. The hang up is that our cooling line holes need to be drilled on opposite sides of the piece. This would require changing it in a fixture twice and time costs money. Plus I’d need to have a fixture made. They would be very nice though, I can tell you that. They would be machined for o-rings. I have an idea of how to have the cooling holes tapped in one pass. I need to check measurements to see if it will work.

If anyone is interested in a Pontiac specific adapter piece that includes an o-ring, let me know in this thread. If there’s enough interest and I won’t be throwing away money I’ll pursue it.

[Gach]

I bought the whole set up from precision automotive oh a few years ago. Real good quality hoses and all fittings all line up perfectly. I just run the restrictor he sends 2 sizes. One size about diameter of a dime other one about diameter of a nickel. No problem running it on the street, car never gets above 180 degrees even on 90 degree days. Real good guy and I’d do Business with again.

I had one problem tho, the manifold that bolts to thermostat housing the holes would not line up, he asked what manifold I was running, long story short. He sent me another one same exact issue. My guess bolt pattern was for Chevy. I had to elongate the holes to make it work. You can’t just do one hole you have to do both. Probably a couple hours of messing around. Not as easy as it sounds.

[b-man]

Just use one of the universal type thermostat gaskets that have the slotted holes as a template and slot the holes.

Shouldn’t be a big deal for anyone with a mill or even just a bench vise, a good sharp rat tail file and a careful hand.

[Dragncar]

This one looks like it might be a winner. Some look like they are just a spacer with no recess for a thermostat-disc.

This one has the recess and is 1 1/4" thick. It has one 1/2" female pipe but I can add the other where I want.
If I am going to have a hard time getting the disc I might as well run my 160 deg thermostat. I have .006 piston to wall (filled) so getting it up to operating temp will happen quicker with a thermostat vs a disc with quarter size hole.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vta-706001-vcq

I can give it to the machinist at work and he can put it in the mill and take care of it easily.

[NatW_RI]

If you have the CAD files upload them to companies like Protolabs or Xometry and you'll get same-day quotes for producing whatever quantity you want. It may not work out cost wise but it's super easy and free to get estimates. I've used both to get $ numbers for work and parts coming from Protolabs have looked great.

[Gach]

Just trying to be helpful here, I know guys have done it or tired it with thermostat. I tired it with thermostat even tired drilling holes in thermostat, didn’t work very well at least for me. Thing would get up to 220 degrees. I may be wrong on my theory and why the restricted works better. At least with the electric water pump, I have a Meziere one. Of course every set up is different.

My theory the pump is pushing water up into the heads, coming out into the cross over, now the thermostat doesn’t open until it hits 160 degrees so no water is flowing into the radiator and to top it off the lines coming from back of the heads also isn’t pushing water back into the radiator…not until that thermostat opens.

This is what finally worked for me, I Fire car up, wait until it gets up to 180 degrees then turn electric water pump on, sure temperature drops to around 160 but now that water is circulating though the radiator it only takes a couple of minutes to get up to 180-185. I have two fans in front of radiator I then flip them on. Then take the car out Cruise around and put my foot into it. Even at the dragstrip making passes its never been above 195 on return road.

My Theory the thermostat is to restrictive and unless that thing doesn’t really open at 160 and bounces around and doesn’t fully open its just not pumping the water into radiator fast enough to keep the water circulating though the heads. With the restrictor the water is constantly circulating the water. The other problem is if that thermostat sticks it doesn’t open you’re kind of screwed especially if you’re making passes. With the thermostats you buy today who knows how good they are. Maybe I just had bad luck with ones I tired.

When I was having those issues it was precision automotive that explain this is what I should do, he strongly recommended I run the restrictor instead of the thermostat. I’m not saying this is right for everyone or is the holy Grail and the absolute thing you should do but hey you may consider it. If it helps great.

[chuckies76ta]

Gach, I tried that spacer thing and I didn't like it. I finally removed it and re installed the thermostat. 160*. I took the water lines from the back of the heads to the crossover. I tapped off the passenger side and went to the return on the timing cover that is for the heater core. I also left my bypass on the cross over to timing cover in place. I also have electric fans and a Meziere water pump. I drilled 2 small holes in the thermostat to relieve any air that may be in the system on startup. Car stays at 160 * and on return road is at 170* in 80-90* weather. Been working very nice for us so far.
So on cold start up coolant runs through the bypass and also moves through heater core port on timing cover. I set it up the same way from the factory so coolant is always circulating through the block and heads while thermostat is closed. I use the Napa stainless thermostat for years with no issues.
What's funny about the whole setup is this 505 IA2 take longer to warm up than our previously 468 engine. I think it may have something to do with the Meziere water pump. That pump really moves the coolant. It's the HD pump. I never had a heating issue in any Pontiac engine in all the years doing this stuff, except when I install a Mr. Gasket thermostat and it was sticking on opening.

[Gach]

Chuckle TA….Sounds good, i’m trying to picture what you did. So if I’m picturing this right, you ran both lines from back of the heads to cross over. But how did you Connect to the heater outlet on timing cover. Did you tee off the line from passage side then go to timing cover outlet. So I take it your not running through. The heater in fire wall.

[rolling money pits]

I, too, have those Precision head plug things. Was going to tap the xover and run lines there. Then this thread popped up and I thought different.

However, I want to maintain heater core functionality. If I tee the lines in the back, then run through heater core/timing cover like factory, it’ll still help with head cooling?

[chuckies76ta]

Originally Posted by Gach

Chuckle TA….Sounds good, i’m trying to picture what you did. So if I’m picturing this right, you ran both lines from back of the heads to cross over. But how did you Connect to the heater outlet on timing cover. Did you tee off the line from passage side then go to timing cover outlet. So I take it your not running through. The heater in fire wall.

I used a -8an y splitter. I did not use the heater core.
I came off back of passenger head to the y fitting, took one to crossover and other side of y fitting to water pump return. I wanted the coolant flowing at all times while the engine is running, before thermostat opens

https://www.amazon.ca/BIKING-Fitting...07023500&psc=1