[remy30006]

Would someone be able to tell me if this Z-bar looks correct for 64 or at least correct enough to work. It fit kind of tight with no room to spare but it does rotate freely. It is on an angle but not sure if that is correct. I had to bend the frame bracket to get it to slide in but it does slide down completely to the bottom of the bracket, close but not all the way. I bought the ball stud kit from ebay could that be wrong? Are all GM the same?

Thank you!

[chrisp]

Looks like the frame bracket is still bent , the stud looks crooked . Original 4 speed frame & bracket ?

[Cardo]

My original in my 66 always fit like that. Never had a problem with it.

[Tom Vaught]

Agree that the Z-Bar is very much like my 64 GTO Z-Bar as far as the "look" and the "position" in the vehicle pics.

Mine was always a bit sung based initially on how the engine went into the frame mounts.
That being said, I finally put the end of the Z-Bar tube on a sander belt and dusted off about 2 mm of length and it was easier to go on then.

I also modded one (Upper Arm) to work with a set of JR Race Headers that went over the frame.

Believe there is a zerk fitting on the tube somewhere to add grease inside the tube.
Should also be seals that seal tube at block pivot ball and at frame ball. Been a few years since I played with it though.

Tom V.

[Jeff Hamlin]

IIRC the grease fitting didn't come about til '67

[Tom Vaught]

Thanks for the info on the Grease Fitting.
A friend actually ran a 67/68 Z-Bar on his car (a 65 GTO) so that may be where I remembered the zerk fitting from.
Many years ago, vs today and the info gets mixed together sometimes.
I may have even added the zerk fitting (after seeing the one on his car) to my Modded "Z-Bar" I used with the JR Headers.

Tom V.

[69hardtop]

Looks just like mine

[Dick Boneske]

Both my '64's have grease fittings on the Z bar.

Here are some closeups of the Z bar installed.

[bill ryder]

Mine also, Dick!!

"Bill"!

[Tom Vaught]

Maybe I did not have CRS after all, Jeff H.

Thanks Guys for the info on your cars as well.

Tom V.

[aceaceca]

The frame side ball has an attached stud . The stud has a square like on a carriage bolt that slots into the frame bracket. This stops it from turning when you tighten the nut. If you have the fender well off or even with it on, I would cut a 1 1/2" or so circle out of it at the location of the stud nut. Otherwise you have to cram a wedge in the fender well while trying to cinch up the nut. Purists need not apply.

[remy30006]

I believe the problem is figured out after consulting with a knowledgble friend. I have one of the plastic donut bushings on the engine side of the tube which is making it a bit tighter than it should be. I will remove it this weekend and it should be better.
Thank you!

[Jeff Hamlin]

Yea I'm the one with the CRS I went over to the shop and the '65's have them.

Before hand I was looking at some parts schematics and some show this as an OPTIONAL fitting?? Anyone have any info on that?

[unclescratch]

Since I have to repair my z-bar, is the lower arm at a right angle to the tube of the z-bar? I have some interference right now with the stock starter. Thanks.

[Tom Vaught]

Originally Posted by unclescratch

Since I have to repair my z-bar, is the lower arm at a right angle to the tube of the z-bar? I have some interference right now with the stock starter. Thanks.

Most all of the 64 style Z-Bars were:

1) Parallel to each other and 90 degrees to the centerline of the tube.
If in a clock position looking at the end of the tube (Frame End) the Upper Arm is more like at the 10:30 position
when the lower arm is at the 6:00 position. This is due to the entire Clutch Pedal/linkage geometry.

2) Parallel to each other but the Clutch Pedal arm being on a "Upper Plane" and
the Throw-out Bearing "Transfer Motion" Arm being on a "Lower Plane".

Sounds like there is something really wrong of the "Lower Arm" hits the starter.

Tom V.

[remy30006]

I have no interference with the stock starter. the adjuster bolt angles away from the shift fork

[Tom Vaught]

Having trouble visualizing what you are saying.
Got any pictures?

Tom V.

[unclescratch]

Mr. Vaught, your description is EXACTLY what I needed. Can't thank you (and this forum) enough. My z-bar broke from a sub-standard weld after 20 years and 20K miles. Ames offered me a replacement @cost (@$50.00). Gonna try to rebuild mine. Now I have an excellent idea what it should look like. Outstanding !!

[Tom Vaught]

Glad to help you as always.

I have repaired/modified them in the past so you should be fine.

Tom V.