[soupman]

I don’t think my old engine was level in the engine bay. I had a bare block and attached new motor mounts and put in the engine bay to check, much easier with bare block. Where should I place the level? I was going to use the upper curved points where the valley pan sits but I think those are not the exact same heights. I am good level front to rear, about 3 degrees.

I was thinking placing the level across the bores but with castings not exact, is this ok? How close should this be to level, within 1 degree?

[dataway]

Should be a 90 degree V8 .... so just put an angle level on the deck of the block on one side (from top to bottom) and it should read 45 degrees. Digital level, or a level with a 45 degree bubble. Assuming the engine is supposed to be perfectly level side to side ... I'm not sure if they are.

[lust4speed]

Sometimes it takes the complete engine's weight to set down properly on the mounts. We've had to raise some engines back up a couple of inches with the cherry picker and drop them a little harder to get them to settle in. Not sure your results will prove anything with just the block. I'd also check the attitude of the car because most of ours have a slight tilt which would also throw the measurements off.

[mrennie]

Originally Posted by lust4speed

I'd also check the attitude of the car because most of ours have a slight tilt which would also throw the measurements off.

x2


Front springs may have a slightly different spring rate for driver's side due to weight of driver, battery, brake booster.

[soupman]

Thanks all good suggestions. I did “drop” the engine into the cradle or frame to set it. I like the deck idea. Putting a level across the cylinder bores, straddling the lifter area, but I am unsure if there is casting inconsistencies, I.e high spot to throw the level off.

[dataway]

If you don't have a level with a 45 degree bubble in it, then you can hold a carpenters speed square (triangle shaped square) on the deck and the level on top of that.

[soupman]

All I have is a iPhone with a level app. They are supposed to be accurate, I am within 1 degree, with the high side on the driver side. Also the attitude of the car is 1/2 degree higher on the driver side. I think I am close enough. Plus using a tape measure and triangulation appears right on. Probably as close as the factory was.

[dataway]

The phone apps are actually pretty accurate from what I've seen, use the same principle, and heck, probably the same chip that a digital level does.

[hobbygto65]

You should have the intake manifold on, it's the carb mounting surface that needs to be level.

[Bluesugar]

Originally Posted by hobbygto65

You should have the intake manifold on, it's the carb mounting surface that needs to be level.

This, as you want the carbs fuel bowls to be level.
I would have tranny and engine block sitting where it will be as a final build.
Put heads on with a couple of head bolts(I'm not saying torque them down)
and lay the intake on. Level where the carb will sit.

[Tom Vaught]

Old Carb fuel bowls are not designed to be level. Different sight hole locations, front vs rear.
But if you are using the large "Port Hole" bowls then you should be fine with both bowls the same height.

Tom V.

[hobbygto65]

In stock application what would the angle be, say like for a quadrajet?

[tooski]

If the engine is not level side to side, how would you change that? If the frame mounts are stock or stock type, and in the stock location on the crossmember and the block mounts are stock or stock type in the stock location, I would imagine you're good to go. Otherwise you would have to shift the frame mounts by drilling new holes in the crossmember - one side higher up and the other side lower down to 'rotate' the engine.