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#1
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Once I Was Green, And Now I am Found
Been reading here for a while, and I can see this is my savior site.
In my first few post I had no idea what I had or what I was doing. Of course I wanted to make my 62 Tempest Le mans and make it a race car, as I'm sure we all have. As you know that will never happen without extensive modifications. I wanted to simply drop in the 400 or 455 and go street racing, but with the rope shaft we know, it aint happing. Had no idea about even what the rope shaft was, well now I know. I have just started my rebuild of the famous 4. I pulled it out this weekend in the cold and loved every minute of it. There is nothing like learning new things and seeing things you have never seen before. I think pulling the flywheel cover was the most exciting. To see this mysterious rope shaft and how it was bolted to the crank was awesome. I know now it is no big deal, but it was the mystery of how it worked and what it looked like. Very cool, yet very simple. So the engine is out and is almost all torn down on the engine stand. I need to pull the balancer and front end apart. I am looking forward to seeing the tensioner set up for the timing chain and how that works. The head is still on and the oil pan, cant wait to see this crazy crank everyone has talked about. I will tell you this, the thing looked brand new inside. absolutely no crust or oil build up inside at all. Under the valley pan and valve cover looked like it was just cast. every bolt was new as I took them out. I have started fully documenting ever piece, every bolt and even every washer as I am taking it apart. Pretty strange how many different washers there are, flat, star, locking, and even C washers. If anyone is ever doing a factory rebuild, I will have the pictures of every piece and every step along the way. So now when I ask a question I will be a little more educated in what I'm doing, I hope. I sure wish someone had mentioned how the engine would need to sit on the stand, not realizing, I almost turned the dam thing over on me. I am used to v8's. I'm sure you veterans are laughing rite now. Yes the whole engine has to be cock completely side ways, with the head straight up, Duhhh. This will end up with the whole car being rebuilt, for the most part, so you will be up dated along the way, with many pictures. I will certainly need and love all the help and I can get through my journey, so any and ALL input that you guys have will certainly be appreciated. There will be many more questions about motor upgrades, suspension upgrades, trim removal, where to get parts, and even paint choices. I also hope to make some new friends. Jerry, 62 tempest nashville |
#2
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62 pics
rope shaft
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#3
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62 pics
coming out
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#4
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62 pics
stand / inside top
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#5
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Nice pics, thanks!
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#6
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Looks like a very clean little car!! For being a Lemans, I only see a few external options. Front fender wind splits, outside mirror & full wheel covers. Is that a red interior??? What is the engine code on the front of the block just below the head?? There's Lots of little things you can do to the 4 banger to wake it up!!! The biggest things is more carburation & a larger free flowing exhaust.
When you go to put it back in, leave the intake off till after the long block is in. Run a chain to the front & rear head bolts & a second shorter chain down to the left side of the block. Adjust chains as needed to get the engine to sit at the correct angle to install. Keith |
#7
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That car is so clean! Nice story, Jerry. And very well written which is a blessing around here.
I have a fond memory of that car when I was a kid. My friends older brother had one and would take us on the beach with it. The sand was very soft too, and it would never get stuck !!?? It wasn't till years later I figured out why. Yeah, it's a pretty cool dune buggy if you ever wanna try it. Welcome aboard.
__________________
1970 Burgundy GTO hardtop. CVMS built 455 4sp. May the Torque be with you! John. |
#8
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62 Tempest
Thanks Jerry- Your pictures are very clear and helpful. Your explaintions of your effort are great and really appreciated! Hope to hear more about soupin' up the 4 banger. I am torn between pumping up my 4 cyl or installing a built 389(63). Thanks again Lee
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#9
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Exhaust
Hey Keith the inside is kind of a gold and tan or saddle color mix, I wouldn't call it brown. It is in very good shape too.
I never really noticed the numbers on the front of the head until you mentioned it. I found 162p and 96230 under that, then I noticed more under the paint next to it. That number was 497903 and then 76y under it. Hey, I remember seeing the 76y, its on my body tag. I guess you could see (or you know) how difficult it was pulling it out as a whole. I did not know the correct lifting point for the back side, of course it had the lifting eye up front. I figured it would go back in better in pieces. Ok, I started trying to finish the tear down last night. so I'm on the other side of the engine trying to get the exhaust manifold off the head,,,,, and I'm sure you know what I going to say.... THE BOLTS where all rusted and rounded out, I got 2 out nice. The others I tried various standard and metric sockets, and even with a hammer I cant get one to stick good enough to get them out. So do I just take the air cut off wheel and carefully cut the heads off the bolts and slip the exhaust off ??? Also What's up with the with the heat flap for the manifold ?? is the weight suppose to be up when cold, or down ? I would think up when cold ? Is it suppose to spring back and forth or have tension ? mine just flaps up and down freely. Do I even want this set up ? do I want to block off the cross over pipe ? What is the hot upgrade manifold for this ?? I have never herd any one talk about a header for the 62-4's. Is there one ?? Need to know so I can do what it takes to do it right the first time... I don't want it to hold me up later if It's something special I need to find. I cant wait to get the head off. There's no way I'm trying to flip this thing over for the oil pan yet. I'm really anxious to see under there, especially after seeing how clean it was under the valley pan. When I get in there, what is the oil pump I'm going to want ? I'm trying to collect all the parts I can now. I have a bunch already oh ya, how do you put your picture with your profile name on the postings ?? I got no pic ?? |
#10
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I can offer this advice. Every toolbox should have these. They make sockets for rounded off bolts and nuts. I've seen them at Sears. Mine came from Matco and are worth their weight in gold.
Again, very clean looking car. nice! Good luck.
__________________
1970 Burgundy GTO hardtop. CVMS built 455 4sp. May the Torque be with you! John. |
#11
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Exhaust
I found out one of my questions by looking at some of the picture I had been taking. I did not see the studs for the spring on the heat flap, it was late that night. I do see it had a coil spring. I guess I need one of those if I keep this set. The exhaust never leaked anywhere, but as you can see it is 46 years old.
I did have one of the bolts break for the cross over pipe and one on the main outlet so I guess I need to deal with that too, again if I stay with that set up. Kitch, I did think about one of those bolt removers when I saw this was going to be a problem, I am going to try one. Sears is less then a mile from me thanks. Anyone Know why my oil pan is green ??? I think its been off at one time, I'm sure it should be blue the the rest of the engine. Always wondered. |
#12
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The 162P92630, if it is the original engine, should be the vehicles Vin number & should match the drivers door jam tag. That vin should also be on the front & rear subframe assemblys. The 76Y is a 10.25 compression, 1 bbl carb motor for an automatic. The cyl head should have dual valve springs & you should have flat top pistons.
The heat valve should be closed when cold & open when hot. You can cut the heads of the bolts off to get the manifold off. Soak the bolts with PB Blaster for several days & rap with a hammer before trying to remove them. Keith |
#13
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D.U.I. Distributors
what do you guys think about these distributors ??? it's pretty cool how they make one for the Pontiac 4's I really want one.
I know about the Pertronix kit, but there's nothing like a brand new distributor, especially one with the kind of voltage the DUI makes. They're on sale for a few more days. Give me your Check it out.... http://www.performancedistributors.com/gmssdui.htm |
#14
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Jerry, I would contact them before purchase. One they have listed for Pontiac 4 cyl is for a different engine & I belive the other one wont work also. Lots of options out there for a performance ignition. Pertronix with a high volt coil is one & you can keep it looking stock. The only thing on my car that you can see that is not stock is the header & 2.5" pipe all the way out the back. Everything else is internal/hidden. Nothing better than the look on kids faces when you smoke them in what appears to be a stock old car.
Keith |
#15
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Header For A 4
I want to see the header for a 4, and the exhaust system,,, where's the pics??? Tell me what I want,,, You seem to have it....
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#16
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DUI Distributors
Keith, I think your right, that looks like a long distributor.... i will check into that.
Let's hear more about the outlet of theses 4's What is the (must have) Exhaust set up ??? I still Wanna hear about the earl pump too. |
#17
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Jerry, Pics of the header I run is here http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=549457 and here
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=549460 Do a search in this forum for exhaust. It has been covered many times. The stock exhaust is very restrictive, runs much better with a larger manifold & pipe. Earl pump?? or oil pump?? Keith |
#18
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Neat car. Let me know if you move up here.
__________________
Tempest455 |
#19
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Oil Pump
Yes, What is the oil pump i want ??? The old Neighbor man down the street calls it the earl pump.... Come on,,, I am in Nashville.
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#20
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For all my street engine builds I get a standard 389 oil pump from NAPA. About $50, I pull it apart & clean before reassembling it. Nothing fancy, works every time.
Keith |
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