[dataway]

Roger, where is the second ground cable going that looks like it loops under the engine?

[dataway]

I made this little 12v vacuum pump box and storage bottle to test the vacuum systems on various equipment, works great for testing HVAC, brake bleeding etc.

[roger1]

Originally Posted by dataway

Roger, where is the second ground cable going that looks like it loops under the engine?

Neat little vacuum pump you built!

This style of alternator must not have a internally grounded case so it has a negative post on the rear. The 6 gauge wire is the one on the bottom in the first photo on yesterday's post. I did build that wire with a protective sleeve on it and that's why it appears larger than a 6 in the photo. It's tight quarters around the alternator bracket where it's routed.

Here's a photo of the rear of the alternator. I looped the ground wire down and around to the post on the head and attached it along with the negative battery cable.

[dataway]

OK that explains it, thank you.

[gtospieg]

Roger1...I just found your project thread...I went through the whole thing..."OUTSTANDING" probably doesn't do it justice.

[roger1]

Originally Posted by gtospieg

Roger1...I just found your project thread...I went through the whole thing..."OUTSTANDING" probably doesn't do it justice.

Thank you very much for the compliment!!!

[Shiny]

How do you solder a 2 gauge cable? Do you use a big iron, a torch, or?

I remember my dad had a Weller "gun" that probably had enough power but my "hobby iron" would not get it done.

I have to do some wiring on my camper and will need a way to do similar..

Tnx

[roger1]

I use a propane torch being careful to not overdo it and burn the insulation on the wire. Btw, this is the crimper I use and I use it in a vise:



Waytekwire.com carries them. They carry heavy wall heat shink tubing from too. I bought the battery cables and terminals from Battery Cables USA.

Btw, this is the tool I used for installing the rivet nuts and it worked well:



It was the first time I had used it. I had another style before this but wore it out.

[Shiny]

Thank you!

[dataway]

I've been looking for a tool like that for rivet nuts, the normal big tool with handles is just too large to fit many places, not to mention it has no "feel" to it.

[roger1]

Originally Posted by dataway

I've been looking for a tool like that for rivet nuts, the normal big tool with handles is just too large to fit many places, not to mention it has no "feel" to it.

I got it from ProStar Tools
I bought the 1/4-20 and the 10-32. The 10-32 works well for smaller wires and is what I used for the short 10ga ground wire on the blower motor.

[Dave1969]

This is awesome Roger, you are restoring almost the exact same car that I have. Believe me I will probably be a pain in your butt with questions. I am still going through your thread so more questions to come. I asked a couple of questions on the SPI site but here are a couple more regarding the Endura bumper. You are using the epoxy from SPI but when I looked at that product I couldn’t find anywhere that it said it was flexible. Are you adding a flex agent? What paint gun are you using and tip/pressure settings?
Thanks in advance. I have posted a few pics of my car and I’ll start a thread just for my project.
I purchased this car when I was 19 (40 years ago) and it still had Georgia plates on it. Very rust free car. I am going through it to take care of a lot of surface rust and to do some upgrades. Tremec TKX 5 spd, disc brakes, new interior, to name a few.

[roger1]

Originally Posted by Dave1969

This is awesome Roger, you are restoring almost the exact same car that I have. Believe me I will probably be a pain in your butt with questions. I am still going through your thread so more questions to come. I asked a couple of questions on the SPI site but here are a couple more regarding the Endura bumper. You are using the epoxy from SPI but when I looked at that product I couldn’t find anywhere that it said it was flexible. Are you adding a flex agent? What paint gun are you using and tip/pressure settings?
Thanks in advance. I have posted a few pics of my car and I’ll start a thread just for my project.
I purchased this car when I was 19 (40 years ago) and it still had Georgia plates on it. Very rust free car. I am going through it to take care of a lot of surface rust and to do some upgrades. Tremec TKX 5 spd, disc brakes, new interior, to name a few.

Very cool Dave! I'll watch for your new thread and follow along so others can answer your questions as well as me. I'll be interested to hear all the history and plans for your car too.
SPI epoxy primer is permanently flexible. No flex agent necessary. I used their clear as well and it doesn't need flex agent either. I use an Iwata LPH-400 with a 1.4 tip and set the pressure at the gun at 28 psi when spraying their epoxy primer.

[roger1]

Installed the front bumper, valance and hood and got them all lined up.
A couple of people warned me not to have the bumper up against the fenders so I left about a credit card thickness gap. I hope that is enough.
Seeing it all together now makes me want to start getting to the cutting and buffing process.











I finished up all the wiring on the engine. All I had left was the A/C compressor and the alternator.
I ran an ignition wire with an inline 470 ohm resistor for the alternator excite input and another ignition wire from the main fuse panel for the voltage sensing input.
Also installed the new valve covers and the chrome on them is really nice. Makes a big difference over the old ones. Installed the air filter and finished installing the heater hoses as well.





I did try cranking the engine briefly just to see if the wiring was all working. Cranks OK but the starter doesn't sound right so I need to put it back up in the air and check that out. Then my plan is to finish the brakes, get the wiring done back to the fuel pump and gauge, fill all the fluids and get the car running.

[keith k]

All your work paid off - front end margins and flushness are fantastic!

[dataway]

Will be very interested in your report on the AC efficiency when you get it running. Looks like a very sanitary installation and likely my option should my OEM system not work as well as I want. I notice it doesn't use the Ambient Air sensor .... does the kit use something else?

Also are those round hood bumpers on the top of the cowl a 69 thing? I don't have those on my 68.

[Old Goat 67]

All I have to do is to start thinking I'm a perfectionist.

Then I look at your work and it puts things back into proper focus!

[roger1]

Originally Posted by Old Goat 67

All I have to do is to start thinking I'm a perfectionist.
Then I look at your work and it puts things back into proper focus!

Originally Posted by keith k

All your work paid off - front end margins and flushness are fantastic!

Thanks for the compliments guys!

I figured it would be a little harder to get lined back up with the stiffness the inner fenders added and it was. I didn't have the inner fenders mounted when I had the front end mocked up for fitting. I had to go back and loosen the bolts on them and the battery tray and that helped.

Originally Posted by dataway

Will be very interested in your report on the AC efficiency when you get it running. Looks like a very sanitary installation and likely my option should my OEM system not work as well as I want. I notice it doesn't use the Ambient Air sensor .... does the kit use something else?

Also are those round hood bumpers on the top of the cowl a 69 thing? I don't have those on my 68.

Thanks. I have high hopes for the A/C system but that remains to be seen. I do have the original ambient air sensor. It appears to be in fair condition but I decided not to hook it up. My understanding that it doesn't allow the compressor to kick on in sub-freezing weather. I don't know how necessary they are. I'll will probably never drive my car when it is that cold outside.
I hope you will still think it looks sanitary after I get the A/C hoses made and installed. I am going to use the reduced barrier type hoses for the #8 and #10 and that will help. I need to get a swivel type manifold for the back of the compressor as well. Kind of tight quarters there.
I have a hose crimping kit with the dies for the reduced barrier hose so I will custom make the hoses myself. I buy my supplies from coldhose.com.

According to Ames, your '68 should have the bumpers. Do you have an assembly manual for a '68? I bought one for a '69 and I'm sure finding it a useful reference to have.

https://secure.amesperf.com/qilan/Detail_Web?part_num=D115C&order_number_e=NTM5MjI2N Q%3D%3D%0A&web_access=Y

[MUSLCAH]

Sanding and buffing…….now there’s a thankless job. Just take 2 Advil before buffing….for muscle soreness…lol….works for me. Your OCD will definitely be tested in this process

[dataway]

I'll have to check my parts bags .... probably just never noticed them before.
Thanks.