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#1
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what are you guys using for chains to help get the cam set where you want it? i have had 3 key way chains, i even have a couple edelbrock gear drives with 3 key ways. i have seen the billet 9 keyways but never actually had one.
is the 9 positions enough to usually get it where you want it? I see how the BOP belt drive comes in handy here, i also see the milodon gear drive cam gear works like tbe bop belt drive does. Is there a timing chain set available with tbe adjustable cam gear? actually i may have to dig those gear drives out, i was sure they were 3 key vs the knock off single keys available. |
#2
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there is 3 key ways on the crank so i guess the better question is...
if you 2 degrees advance or retard at tbe crank with the keyway, but in edelbrocks case it says you have 4 degrees advance or retard at the cam too? how is that so when there no adjustment there other than hoping tbe gears mesh at tbe same position your desired cam timing events happen? sorry fellas, ive always just did dot to dot |
#3
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The last edelbrock i tried advancing with ended up advancing 8 degrees!. I solely use the 9 way at this point. the other option is to install dot to dot and us the mr gasket offset cam keys . but measuring for lobe centerline with a wheel is the only way to be certain where the cam is dot to dot that see what needs adjusted.
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Illinois Outlaw Gassers 6.27@107 9.97@131 |
#4
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so i guess if you were using a cam with advance built in, those 2 degree keys might come in handy if things were off a smidge, but on a cam with no ground in advance that you want to degree to certain advance say 3 degrees, i guess the 9 way might shine here?
i guess i cant figure where the 4 degrees plus or minus is at on the edelbrock cam gear since theres only one key |
#5
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I ONLY use Cloyes 9 keyway timing sets. They're made in America and have always been very close on their tolerances.
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62' Lemans, Nostalgia Super Stock, 541 CI, IA2 block, billet 4.5" crank, Ross, Wide port Edelbrocks, Gustram intake, 2 4150 style BLP carbs, 2.10 Turbo 400, 9" w/4:30 gears, 8.76 @153, 3100lbs |
The Following User Says Thank You to Gary H For This Useful Post: | ||
#6
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The More People I Meet, The More I Love My Dogs! |
#7
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I de greed mine in with a Rollermaster .004 short. It was where it needed to be straight up. In that position I tried a Morse 3/4" wide link chain. It was tighter than the .004 short chain. Cam and crank did not move, ran it.
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#8
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I'm still using a 40 yr old milidon gear drive. 1 key, 7 bolt cam hub, can be a nightmare to get dialed in but after doing it a few times I developed a method. IIRC basically each location moves cam about 1* or basically +/- 3.5* until you swap to next tooth.
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#9
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I have found Cloyes to be most accurate and long lasting chains and sprockets as well
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.................................................. .No One Ever Escaped Tyranny By Compliance.............................. |
#10
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9 way Cloyes for me as well..
Never had a problem ...
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My Half AN Injun..... |
#11
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Ha, my preference had been the use of a degree key, so i knew for sure i was "pushing the cam ahead" with the shifted key.
The 3-way crank grove and tiny markings, and cryptic blurry instruction postit note lacked clarity. I could figure it out but they didn't provide assurance. |
#12
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Timing chain sets with three offsets (-4 0 +4) usually equal 8°. Mr Gasket 2° keys equal five degrees. Using the eight degree offset and the 2° Mr Gasket key will move the cam timing three degrees. That is usually good enough to time in a cam that doesn't have any advance "built" into it.
If you want that one extra degree you can hunt down the 1° Mopar offset key or use a timing chain set with more adjustability. |
The Following User Says Thank You to PAUL K For This Useful Post: | ||
#13
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looks like those 1° keys are gonna be mostly impossible to find but hopefully the 2° gets it done
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