[HWYSTR455]

I used to use straight 30 across the board, and at one time used VR1. I went to a 'regular' Valvoline oil for a while too, and tried some of the 'darker' oils as well.

Over time, found oils that seemed to be better for the type of builds and driving I did, and reasons for switching. I'm not stuck on any specific oil, but definitely don't trust cheaper oils. The additive packages that are better cost more, simple as that. The rest is just oil.

Racing oils need to be changed more frequently, because of the types of additives. So I moved away from those because of the type of my types of use.

I like lighter colored oils better, as they dilute or get polluted, you can physically see it, and have a better gauge of when it needs to be changed. Different conditions, gas quality, etc, all end up in the oil, as it should. It's a good thing. When it looks like crap, you change it.

Moly paste, cam lobes. That grey muck is just a carrier, it may wash away quickly, but the actual lubricant remains much longer. The lobe surface (or bearing surface, or whatever) is not micro-smooth, it has a 'grain', however small, the lubricant remains in the roughness of the surface.

Some carriers can actually be a problem, because they can clog pleats in a filter, reducing flow, and filtration. That's one very good reason to change your oil right after initial start up. Another is to remove any debris/contaminants that may have found their' way into the sealed area of an engine during assembly. As well as any wear material, and coatings manufacturers use on certain parts.

Viscosity depends on the build, particularly clearances used. Here's a general background on the topic that some may find interesting:

https://www.enginebuildermag.com/201...ng-clearances/

Some builders know that the machine shop they use do not get work done to a specific degree (to be polite), and intentionally use wider clearances to compensate. Those builds require a heavier oil.

Tolerances on factory assemblies these days have become much more 'tight', and can use closer clearances, hence why they use light weight oils.

Then there's the film strength aspect, which is based on a combo of clearances and load. Here's a general overview of the topic:

https://www.machinerylubrication.com...-film-strength

That article has additional references of articles that dive deeper on some of the topics mentioned, which also are good general overviews, browse over ones that might catch your eye, just to help get a better understanding.

To say 'one approach' works in all cases is not accepting it's more complicated than understood. That one approach may work for the types of builds a commenter normally performs, hence the 'it's worked for me this way for years' statements could hold water in certain cases.

Best thing to do is, do your homework to the best of your abilities, and choose an approach that suits you, and makes you comfortable. The more you know, the better off you will be.


.