[AG]

Originally Posted by ta man

My hard block engine has been in service since 2017. Mike Voycey built the shortblock intended more for a drag car then a street car. Initially I was going to add a remote filter cooler and lines but a few here suggested just run it as it is and see. I use a Canton 400 pan which increases oil capacity and also have a oil temp gauge. The majority of the time the oil temps are at 210 when the engine is fully heat soaked, the only time it goes higher are on extended high rpm runs on the highway..it will show 240. I also use synthetic 15/40 Rotella for oil in the engine for the added protection at possible higher temps. If I was to use this engine for road racing or any long high sustained runs more often I would add a cooler/thermostat setup.
The one nice feature I have now is the oil temp gauge..I always make sure my temp is up before I really romp on it...and also at the dragstrip with this engine the oil stays warmer longer then the coolant between rounds which is good for performance.

I see an IAII in your car in the future that does 9.99 with a 2.78 gear.

[ta man]

Originally Posted by AG

I see an IAII in your car in the future that does 9.99 with a 2.78 gear.

I went to the dark side..I have 373's now...hoping to get er down to 10.4's next year.

[dirtbird5x]

IMO filling the block is well worth doing for strengthening.
As far as cooling volume I don’t believe that’s as important the benefits of added strength.
Many disagree of course and I’m fine with that.
The “cooling” issues some claim can easily be offset with an oil cooler which is a good plan anyway.
I have a friend that had a 482 bbc (.100 over 454)
The block stabilization was needed for the overbore again IMO street/strip driven off and on for ten years and now it’s back in a different strip dedicated car…
Only issue was after a couple hours the oil temp needed addressing, and an oil cooler solved that even in hotter the hades Louisiana.

[Tim Corcoran]

I have a 455 (473.333c.i.) in my bracket car and the guy that did this engine initially did not use a torque plate this was in 1995. This was a low 12 second street car then and over the years has evolved into a low 10 second bracket car. During one of the upgrades I hard blocked it up to the bottom of the water holes in the front of the engine. This car always ran below 180 even on very hot days when I ran it on the street for quite a few years. As a drag car it can go rounds with no cool down time so hard blocking it I believe made the car run cooler and I never check oil temperature but never had a problem. I am still running the same block rods and pistons but have changed heads, crank and cam a few times over the years.

[77 TRASHCAN]

Originally Posted by Steve C.

"To alleviate the creation of excessive moisture, the optimal operating range of engine oil is no less than 212 degrees, which is the point at which the water in the oil will evaporate. Vehicles with an oil temperature thermostat (which we’re going to discuss here shortly) are typically set right at or slightly above this mark. Conversely, you don’t want to run the oil above roughly 240 degrees, as Speed tells us, because you begin to significantly reduce the life and operating ability of the oil, as oil containing moisture doesn’t flow or lubricate properly."


https://www.streetmusclemag.com/tech...-you-need-one/

And with a note regarding the articles comment above 240 degrees. On occasions I've seen my oil temp rise to 240 or higher at highway speeds like 90 mph out on the tollway during summer. With synthetic oil it can be a different ballgame. I called Red Line Oil years ago about oil temps approaching 250 degrees and the tech guy chuckled, then gave a reassuring replay not to worry.

( Information offered for general interest, does not represent any endorsement of the products )


.

Some time ago, here someone here postulated that some of the coolant in a Pontiac block was not really needed, or maybe I should say, not helping cool the block. Maybe the Pontiac cooling system is not terribly efficient. May have beenPaul Carter. The block filling may help improving the efficiency, who knows.

I have remember Tom V talking about some organization that is as testing different oils. He said the Redline stuff was the best on the market ( or something like that). My thought is to run a good filter and synthetic oil, and not worry!!!

My engine builder friend was supplied Redline oil products, for 2-3 years, when he was having some success. He told me their product is as second to none!

[Steve C.]

"Some time ago, here someone here postulated that some of the coolant in a Pontiac block was not really needed, or maybe I should say, not helping cool the block."


Within the link in my post #4 had reference to that. Here was that information...


It actually makes the floor of the water passage smoother and assists flow and heat transfer heat better. And that area down at the very bottom gets very little water circulation anyway on a un-filled block (some suggest a 'dead' area). It is correct it will not effect water temps to any great degree after filling and some actually report it runs cooler.

The question comes up, can I suspect the Oil Temperature will be hotter with the Half-Filled Block. This has always been a subject of controversy. I was at a Pontiac 'seminar' many years ago and that subject came up in an open discussion and also confirmed by a old-school PMD racer. Among other noted individuals on hand was Arnie Beswick, Pete McCarthy and Jim Butler. If memory serves me right it was one of those three individuals that agreed. That said, it was noted it did not have a major effect. And if memory serves me right again there was no one in attendance during this open discussion to offer their objection. And yet I know of others that saw no difference in oil temps before and after filling as measured on their oil temp gauge. Bottom line in many opinions don't be overly concerned and by all means install a oil temp gauge.

Comments from Pontiac Dude....

How is oil temp effected by the bottom 2" or so of the filled block. If that was the case then I would not install windage trays and crank scrapers in the engine to keep the oil in the pan. Also the most of the heat is in the head and top of the cylinder where all the power is made when that spark plug fires.

Related......

Taken in part from Jim Butler comments, Q&A section, PE magazine March/April 1997:

They built two engines for Rodney's '82 T/A street car. Both engines had 455 blocks. One was filled and the other wasn't. The filled block ran 10 to 15 degrees cooler than the unfilled block. It was reported upon tear-down and inspection, the cylinder walls on the unfilled block were seen to be scratched and scored from excess friction. When measured with a dial bore gauge, it was found to be out of round. The filled block was smooth and bore round. He confirmed you do not lose significant coolant capacity by filling the block. However, the difference in the amount of friction is much improved.


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[steve25]

A half filled block indeed produces more even bore temperatures, so yes they stay true to being round and with little taper far better, much more like they are when they are removed from your chosen shops bore and hone machines.

Be done , and off the fence and do it!!

[Steve C.]

Another tid bit, David Butler recommends a filled factory block when using a 4.5" stroke crank. And this was not dependent on a race only situation.


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[steve25]

👍!!!

[ta man]

Originally Posted by Tim Corcoran

I have a 455 (473.333c.i.) in my bracket car and the guy that did this engine initially did not use a torque plate this was in 1995. This was a low 12 second street car then and over the years has evolved into a low 10 second bracket car. During one of the upgrades I hard blocked it up to the bottom of the water holes in the front of the engine. This car always ran below 180 even on very hot days when I ran it on the street for quite a few years. As a drag car it can go rounds with no cool down time so hard blocking it I believe made the car run cooler and I never check oil temperature but never had a problem. I am still running the same block rods and pistons but have changed heads, crank and cam a few times over the years.

What I have found is the water temps will cool down quick at the track and the oil stays warm..best of both

[blueghoast]

My filled blocks (Two The Water Pump) run cooler then my,
nonfilled motors; I have two of them, 474 stroker+406.

GT

[Scarebird]

As a point of reference - this is a pic of my 2019 5.3 Gen V block. Note how the outside of the block conforms to the cylinder up to the oil gallery, then is jacketed.