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  #61  
Old 12-12-2013, 09:12 PM
1966geeto 1966geeto is offline
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Originally Posted by boostmaster View Post
Ok I understand now. Good idea. I'll need to look and see what I can find. Would you happen to have a link so I know exactly what I'm looking for? (I like to buy things only once. So far, I've made a few mistakes and have some parts I don't need)

BTW, I think that I might actually hate you after all. 80* and wondering about cold weather? Come on man! Enjoy that sunshine and heat. If all goes well, I may be back in the sunshine state by this time next year. At least I hope so. I'm really sick of cold weather and it's only early December (Had snow before Thanksgiving!)and we're probably going to continue to have cold through March.
You could probably contact V/A and tell them what you are doing see if you can get the plates separately then the a/c kit later. Cooled off a little today 75 was outside finishing my gas tank hope to install it in the morning trying to fix the pass seat studs they were broken off flush were a bitch to drill out but had enough meat to tap and install new front studs without having to weld new supports in..

  #62  
Old 12-13-2013, 12:04 PM
boostmaster boostmaster is offline
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1966geeto: Good idea. I was checking ebay and coming up empty. I think with V/A you have to go through a vendor so I'll see what I can find out.

hotrodrx: Thanks for the offer! I'm guessing it will be a few weeks for updates due to the holidays and people's busy schedules.

BTW, what is with you guys? Is everyone in FL?

  #63  
Old 12-21-2013, 11:41 AM
boostmaster boostmaster is offline
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Update:

Sadly, I've not had an opportunity to work on the Tempest as we've been having terrible weather and have a DD that is currently down with an electrical issue that has occupied all of my attention.

Anyway, wanted to update the "list" as requested... Received a package from Andre yesterday (Thanks again to Andre!)

Received: distributor, fender emblem, gas cap, weatherstrip (I think it's for the cowl), a set of u-joints, a radiator hose, and a transmission mount.

I'm hoping my dd issue will be fixed soon. Chomping at the bit to get started on the Tempest!!

  #64  
Old 01-26-2014, 05:03 PM
boostmaster boostmaster is offline
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Default I'm back!

Update:

Been out of the loop for a while. A series of unfortunate events have conspired to keep me from making any progress whatsoever! A few unexpected bills popped up. A few other expenses for the "boss's" school also popped up... Then found out mom had mini-stroke so I had to drive down to FL... Just got back and a couple of my old dogs (15 years+ mutts) had medical issues that required veterinary attention and more money...

So, now that the dust is settling, I have a clutch to install one of the dd cars (I'll wait till it gets warmer) and then I will finally be able to focus on the Pontiac. Seems like it will still take a few months to get some cash together to start ordering the wiring and interior bits...

I was thinking of "restoring" the distributor that Andre sent me. Is there anything special that needs to be done besides basic cleanup? (points?, etc) I want to try and start doing little things here and there. (Especially, since we've been frozen for a little while)

Also, I have the original water pump. It looks fine. I was thinking of having it media blasted, lubing it up and re-using. Is there any reason not to use it? It spins fine, just looks like crap from sitting for a while.

Any tips and tricks are appreciated.

  #65  
Old 01-29-2014, 08:05 AM
boostmaster boostmaster is offline
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With my recent water pump dilemma hashed out in a different thread, I think I have a handle on that. I hope to have the correct parts shortly.

I've decided to take the advise of finishing the engine (small stuff first) while I save for all the wiring. (I can't seem to locate the stuff I saved- maybe when we thaw out?) Anyway, I still need to address the distributor, the ignition coil, and the fuel pump.

So here's the questions:

1. The distributor (gift from Andre- thanks again!) is a used item. Is there anything I should to do in preparation to use it besides slapping on a cap and rotor?

2. I have the original (at least that's what was on the car) ignition coil- looks a little rough. Do I buy a OEM style unit from one of the vendors or is there some special upgrade I should be considering? (Again, please bear with me- I know nothing about these systems- my other cars have coil packs or COP's)

3. My engine builder said a stock OEM fuel pump was adequate. However, I read in one of the threads on this board that many people recommended an upgraded fuel pump such as one from RobbMC. Is this overkill for me? I want to have good reliability with this car.

I think this is it for now... I'm trying to reign in my impulse to want to do it all at once. So, baby steps....

As always, any and all input and advice is appreciated.

  #66  
Old 01-29-2014, 09:07 AM
1966geeto 1966geeto is offline
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Dist ck vacuum adv pot make sure it holds vacuum ck end play and side play ck the lobes other than that clean it up lube the cam gear lube points contact install pints and preset dwell new gasket mark no 1 on the cap always easier if you can see it.If you can afford to have it set up that's always nice to.

Test your coil if it's within range clean it up just remember it's a 45 year old part I would replace it for that fact but that's just me avoid failure before it happens .

If you are not in need of a high fuel demand stock pump will do if you can afford it the new in tank pump way to go just start saving your pennies. You could test your pump if you are able spin the motor also don't forget the fuel filter change it out cheap maintenance.

I found that a 5.00 white board saved me from going in circles and reduced the anxiety level about how much I had to do I sectioned the car out on the board and would break it down as to what I cold accomplish and what could wait .Erasing the lines was very satisfying.

The cheapest thing you can do is clean nothing spells progress like clean and shinny it's the little things that count anyway hope this helps take it for what it's worth.

  #67  
Old 01-29-2014, 10:51 AM
boostmaster boostmaster is offline
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Cleaning is my favorite ! LOL

As it sits most everything is new/newer. I have some odds and ends that are original to the car and I plan to clean them up as I go.

Just trying to prevent any future issues if I can manage to do so.

Dealings with the distributor may require some pics. I have no idea about points and dwell. I've never fooled with that stuff.

  #68  
Old 01-29-2014, 04:10 PM
1966geeto 1966geeto is offline
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Cleaning is my favorite ! LOL

As it sits most everything is new/newer. I have some odds and ends that are original to the car and I plan to clean them up as I go.

Just trying to prevent any future issues if I can manage to do so.

Dealings with the distributor may require some pics. I have no idea about points and dwell. I've never fooled with that stuff.

Points are pretty basic even more so with the uni set most of the time they are pre set but best to ck install points bring the dist cam lobe around until point sit on top of the lobe use feeler gage set the points done retighten everything put rotor on leave cap loose for installation I usually mark no 1 with a red or white dot on the cap and on the dist think there is a line on the did housing easy to drop in.if you have a dwell meter recheck once in the car.3.

  #69  
Old 01-29-2014, 05:48 PM
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I'd go with an HEI for it Boostmaster. I went that route with mine 2 years ago and it was the best thing I did to get it running right. Before that I starting having problems with the points distributer and could not straighten it all out. HEI did the trick. You can find them for a reasonable cost here on PY in the 61-67 Parts For Sale forum. I even think there's one in there now for 75 bucks, and that's a darn good deal.

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  #70  
Old 01-29-2014, 06:30 PM
boostmaster boostmaster is offline
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Does an HEI require all of the adjustments of points and dwell?

I'd really like to use this one I have as it was free and should work fine but I truly have no idea how this stuff gets adjusted. (Same with the carburetor)--- I can fool with fuel injection but this "old" stuff is Greek to me.

I don't know anyone local to me that can guide me with this stuff so, I have to come here to look stupid.

My engine builder has offered to break the engine in for me once it's ready to go. He said he could adjust the carb and so on... While that's good for me, I'd still like to be able to bring it to him as "ready to go" as possible. Besides, I'd really like to learn not only the basics but the "tricks" that supposedly make these older cars "supposedly" easier to work on.

  #71  
Old 01-29-2014, 10:33 PM
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Boostmaster-

Go get you a Sears dwell, tach, and volt meter. Buy yourself the service manual and you should not have any problem. There are also quite a few post here describing how to set the points, adjust the dwell, and tune your car. There are also post on tuning the carb as well. The service manual is a must when working on these cars. Also the Internet and Google is your friend. Good luck!

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1966 GTO Vert automatic.
1969 CR Judge Ram Air III 4sp Pattern Car.
1969 GTO standard 350HP TH-400.
2006 GTO Phantom Black 6spd.
1972 Formula 455HO Ram Air.
1976 LE Trans Am 50th Anniversary Edition with T top.
1976 Formula 350.
1977 Grand Prix Model J 350.
1978 Trans am 400 Pontiac.
1979 Trans am 403 Olds.
1968 Olds 442.
1971 TR6.
  #72  
Old 01-29-2014, 10:36 PM
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Nope, not at all. Put it in, hook up the wires and that's it. Time it and and you're all set. No dwell to mess with. You can set the cap 180°s from how it's normally installed. Just make sure you put the plug wires where they're supposed to be. The numbers on the cap will not match the plugs. Get #1 piston to TDC. Just start with #1 wire and go around from there. It's not as hard as it sounds.)

You will need to put a jumper between 2 wires at the ignition switch so you have 12 volts all ther time to the distributer. Off hand I can't remember which ones they are. I think they are Ing 1 and Ign 2, but Old Goat 67 knows for sure. He's the one that got me thru the setup.

I can try and get a photo of mine posted for you tomorrow.

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  #73  
Old 01-30-2014, 08:10 AM
boostmaster boostmaster is offline
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Thank you gentlemen for the assist. I do have the service manuals (the original 1967 books), I also have the restoration guide and lots of google time under my belt.

I know I can figure this stuff out, it's just a matter of time. My issue is sort of like trying to teach myself to play the guitar when I was younger- You can learn the proper positions for the notes you want to hit (there's tons of books available to guide you) but, if you don't know what it's supposed to "sound" like, you'll never get it right.

For me it's like this with this car. I have a basic mechanical understanding. I do most all my own work save for auto trans and body work (I've tried it, not for me)... However, since I have never been properly exposed to the "old" cars, their workings are sort of a "lost art" to me... (and probably all of the folks younger than I).

Previously, cars seemed to be a simple matter. Lately, maybe it's just because it's a Pontiac, I'm finding that this brand has it's quirks. Heck, I've got an ongoing 3 page thread over stupid water pumps! (I've never given water pumps much thought until now) Anyway, I'm just asking tons of questions (stupid or otherwise) in an effort to insure that I don't screw it up.

  #74  
Old 01-30-2014, 07:10 PM
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I installed the M&H points conversion kit in my stock distributor and no longer have to deal with points. But, everything I did can be undone and the original points can be put back in. The installation was a little tricky as I was trying to do it with the distributor still in the car. Finally I marked the rotor button's position, took a digital photo as back-up and pulled the distributor out. It was much easier to do on the bench. You don't have to modify anything and it a one wire hook-up just like the points. If I can do it anyone can!
http://www.breakerless.com/

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  #75  
Old 01-31-2014, 12:32 AM
rexs73gto rexs73gto is offline
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Never feel bad about asking questions. A question asked is still IMO is just someone needing information that they don't have that they need & if someone makes fun of that person for asking that question is a fool themselves So never feel bad for asking any question..

  #76  
Old 01-31-2014, 11:39 PM
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Boostmaster, as rexs73gto stated above there are no stupid questions, and I believe asking questions is one of the main purposes for this web site. Soak in all the many references there are out there. I have many many manuals (as I have different types of cars) 7 different magazine subscriptions, numerous videos/DVD's on various subjects, and I find asking questions here helps me more than all the other reference material combined. I'm not sure if you look in the other sections like interior, suspension, engine, etc...but I find it very helpful to just spend time reading the other post even if I'm not working in that area. You can also use the search feature to look up old post as just about any problem has been addressed before. Try and find yourself a copy of MOTOR auto repair manual from the 60's, it explains the different systems very well. Good luck!! And remember if you have any questions ask, I have never had a question go unanswered that I asked these guys.

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1966 GTO Vert automatic.
1969 CR Judge Ram Air III 4sp Pattern Car.
1969 GTO standard 350HP TH-400.
2006 GTO Phantom Black 6spd.
1972 Formula 455HO Ram Air.
1976 LE Trans Am 50th Anniversary Edition with T top.
1976 Formula 350.
1977 Grand Prix Model J 350.
1978 Trans am 400 Pontiac.
1979 Trans am 403 Olds.
1968 Olds 442.
1971 TR6.
  #77  
Old 02-01-2014, 12:06 AM
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I have a Snap-on MT816B Tach and Dwell tester that works very well. Don't use it much except for the tach portion of it.

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"Crusin' Is Not A Crime"
Keep yer stick on the ice.
  #78  
Old 02-03-2014, 03:43 PM
boostmaster boostmaster is offline
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Thanks for the motivation! As I've stated before, I love to tinker and mess with cars and generally, we're pretty good at doing most all our own work. However, this is the first "older" car we're tackling and some of this stuff is brand new to me...

I started doing some reading about the distributor and am starting to get a better idea about it. I understand that if I want to keep it original/stock, I should have a new set of points, a new condenser, a new cap and new rotor. Our hose sells a tune up kit for $16.00.

I looked at the breakerless set up and it's very cool but it's also $170 and I figure that if I can get the car running for $16 vs. $170, I might give it a try. Worst case, I can upgrade later.

Here's a few pics of what I have. Can you all see any issues or things that I should address?
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  #79  
Old 02-03-2014, 05:52 PM
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You might want to also get a new vacuum canister. You can get these items at your local auto parts store which will save you waiting for them to arrive by mail. Even if they don't have these items in stock at the store, they can have them there by the next day at the latest. Not sure how you tell if the springs and weights are shot or not so i just usually replace them anyway when I aquire another older car that I don't know the history on. They are not that expensive and can be bought at your local auto parts store. I use O'Rilleys as their parts seem to be better, but that is just my opinion.

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1966 GTO Vert automatic.
1969 CR Judge Ram Air III 4sp Pattern Car.
1969 GTO standard 350HP TH-400.
2006 GTO Phantom Black 6spd.
1972 Formula 455HO Ram Air.
1976 LE Trans Am 50th Anniversary Edition with T top.
1976 Formula 350.
1977 Grand Prix Model J 350.
1978 Trans am 400 Pontiac.
1979 Trans am 403 Olds.
1968 Olds 442.
1971 TR6.
  #80  
Old 02-03-2014, 10:45 PM
rexs73gto rexs73gto is offline
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The Pertronix system 1 is only $ 89.95 & takes about 1/2 hour to put in. t's so much better then the old points & cond. parts & works a lot better. No more adjusting & tinkering with. Set it up & forget it for a long time. I've had mine in for pver 30 years with no problem at all.

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