[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by grivera

These are simple brass extensions? No flaring involved?

Yeah, hardware store/plumbing stuff. Auto parts carry some too.

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[grivera]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Look at post #54, that's how the in tank pump assemblies look coming out of the tank. Remember that the AN fittings are a little bulky, so there may not be enough space between the floor and the tank. Also, you can't screw right into the top of the assembly with the AN fittings, there's not enough room to turn them.

Flare nuts don't save you that much money over the compression fittings, once you add up the sleeves, nuts, and adapters/unions. Also, in some areas, once you run the line, you can't pull it back out and flare it, so a compression fitting makes sense. With the nut on the end of the line, makes it tough to snake it back into position anyway.

Don't forget to stagger the fittings to save space. And don't forget to allow for a little movement, like don't clamp the lines rigidly to the car. (Chassis flex can cause stress on the lines and ends)

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So a line fitting end requires a sleeve, tube nut and union?

[HWYSTR455]

Yeah, here's a couple pics as an example...

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[grivera]

Damn- with crimp fittings, elbows and such, I come up with at least $200. Sound right? This doesn't take into account the hose and unaccounted for items. Add a tank, pump, sending unit, 1/2" line and project creep puts it $800+. This project will have to wait...

[grivera]

I just spoke with the TanksInc rep and he said that when using the in-tank pump on a carburetor application, the restriction on the return will be at the tank return fitting rather than the line. The gpa2 pump is up to 100 psi so assuming the carb psi is 7 that's quite the pressure differential. Does this add up?

[HWYSTR455]

Well, the return fitting in the pump assembly is the same size as the line, .80 by my measurements, so not sure what they mean, unless the elbow is a restriction in itself. I still don't think so, and believe it will work. And yes, there is that much of a differential, hence why I suggest using a 1/2 return line.

$800 sounds about right, think that's about what I spent on the project. You can do it for less, but not by too much, some items like the tank and pump don't vary that much. But just like building an engine, speed costs, and some areas you can't cut corners. (or you pay in the long run)

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[grivera]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Well, the return fitting in the pump assembly is the same size as the line, .80 by my measurements, so not sure what they mean, unless the elbow is a restriction in itself. I still don't think so, and believe it will work. And yes, there is that much of a differential, hence why I suggest using a 1/2 return line.

$800 sounds about right, think that's about what I spent on the project. You can do it for less, but not by too much, some items like the tank and pump don't vary that much. But just like building an engine, speed costs, and some areas you can't cut corners. (or you pay in the long run)

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Gotta work some OT!!

[HWYSTR455]

Bumping this thread for a new member's reference....


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[HWYSTR455]

Updating this thread a little.

So in the GTO project, I purchased a inductive, floatless sender from Speedhut, and it wasn't reading very accurately. So I switched to the floatless one Tanks Inc now offers.

https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...rod/prd346.htm

For my application, based on the Tanks Inc comment on the tank description, it mentions to use a 5" depth sender, which is what I ordered.

I can say for sure, it is way more accurate, isn't effected by fuel slosh, and am totally happy with it. I would recommend them to all.

The Speedhut one is a military grade one, it works, but I at times had erratic readings. I think it might be because I ordered one that was a hair too long, being close to the floor of the take is what throws it off.

Hope folks find this info useful!

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[punkin]

Great write up! I'm looking at doing this very soon myself.

I helped a friend with his dodge a bunch of years back. He bought a coil of aluminum tubing and got so frustrated with it he threw it out. Lines kinked and couldn't get anything to line up straight. I realize this is a really broad and open ended question but how did avoid the keeping the lines from becoming a wavy bendy mess? My hats off to you..that looks like a really neat job.

Did you have a ton of waste? Any nightmare/horror stories? If you had to do it again, would you buy some customer pre-bent lines from LineMaster?

Again, thanks a BUNCH for the series!

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by punkin

Great write up! I'm looking at doing this very soon myself.

I helped a friend with his dodge a bunch of years back. He bought a coil of aluminum tubing and got so frustrated with it he threw it out. Lines kinked and couldn't get anything to line up straight. I realize this is a really broad and open ended question but how did avoid the keeping the lines from becoming a wavy bendy mess? My hats off to you..that looks like a really neat job.

Did you have a ton of waste? Any nightmare/horror stories? If you had to do it again, would you buy some customer pre-bent lines from LineMaster?

Again, thanks a BUNCH for the series!

You can look at the GTO project thread and see more install stuff.

If you look back in this post, you can see how I found the best way to unroll the tubing with minimal waviness. Eastwood also makes a tool that can straighten line, but I never really needed it.

I start by determining roughly the length of line I need, cut it with a little extra, and go from there. The only waste is short sections at either end, and maybe places where I add items like the filter, regulator, etc.

I use a hand bender, one of the cheap, ridged type, and one that's like a pliers type. Just go slow, and figure out how to make as few bends as possible, going a section at a time. It's when you have to bend back & forth a lot or use only your hands does it get real wavy.

You can use the bend tools just by rubbing it back and forth over a section to help straighten out any small wavy. But if you have a length with a bunch of waves, you kinda have to start over. Keep bending the one you messed up, and when done, use it as a pattern/guide to bend the next one.

Think out each section, from end to end, and get general bends in place, then start working it into position.

You can use sockets or other round surfaces to help bend line too. Don't try to make sharp or complex bends, you will get frustrated, and end up giving up. Use AN elbows and angle fittings instead, and flare the tube, using tube nuts. AN tube nuts are very inexpensive.

Use a deburring tool on hard lines before you flare, so you have a good seal. You can use a file to square the ends before you flare, or touch up after the flare.

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-tu...ring-tool.html

Use the coated clamps, not the crappy rubber cushioned ones, the rubber dry rots and loots like crap after a short time, and the rubber goes away. Aeroquip/Eaton makes the nice vinyl coated clamps, and they are resistant to harsh chemicals.

Grainger carries them in many sizes, and remember to allow the line to slightly slide, and NOT be rigidly mounted. It will over time become work hardened and fail.

https://www.grainger.com/product/38Y...P7A1P:20501231


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[HWYSTR455]

You can buy bags of line clamp self-threading bolts that GM uses from Inline Tube to use on the clamps. They look nice, professional, and not look like a hardware store POS.

https://www.inlinetube.com/products/inl11403

If you shop them, you can get them less expensive, like from AMK or other suppliers.

https://www.amkproducts.com/

EDIT: Here you go:

https://www.amkproducts.com/bulk-fas...forlookup=7220

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[1968GTO421]

Somehow I missed this the first time arond and appreciate you re-posting so others like me can learn from it. Great job putting it all together with text, pics, liinks. and answers to posts with questions.
Am subscribing and bookmarking under my Pontiac stuff. Much appreciated!

[HWYSTR455]

As a note, Eaton Aeroquip Hydraulics was purchased by Dan Floss, and Dan Foss is now manufacturing and selling Aeroquip products:

"Danfoss has officially finalized its US$3.3 billion (approximately €3 billion) acquisition of Eaton’s hydraulics business following confirmation of all necessary regulatory approvals and closing conditions. The move will see the Danfoss Group grow in size by a third and establish itself as a global leader in mobile and industrial hydraulics."

https://www.danfoss.com/en/about-dan...g%20conditions.

The division of Dan Foss selling Aeroquip products falls under Murdock Industrial Inc, the specific company is 'Hose Warehouse' at https://hosewarehouse.com/


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[Sun Tuned]

Just to add, and help out folks here…

Those who wish to polish their lines, there’s a few tricks.

I’ve only ever used stainless and only in straight sticks, as that’s how Joe at j&j sells it. He also can sell rolls but I prefer the sticks myself.

Anyhow, although I’ve not tried it just yet on aluminum line I have absolutely no doubt this will work equally as well…

If you wanna polish your lines, and you’re using straight stick material, I usually take a terry cloth rag and squirt some of this polish on the rag. Chuck the line into your drill and spin the line with the rag wrapped around the line. Trust me it will mirror finish the stainless very nicely with hardly any effort. Then simply cut to length and bend and flare.

Of course Brando was what we once used, but epa VOC regs mandated they change the chemical content and so it doesn’t work like it used to at all…

I will post a pic front and back of what I use now and this stuff works really nice. Better finish than the old brasso formula.

[Sun Tuned]

Sorry,
It’s White Diamond metal polish in a bottle .
Oreilleys has it here as well as Home Depot near the kitchen countertop aisle.

So it should be fairly easy to find.

[Tom Vaught]

I use TWO of the Walbro 255 liter per hour In Tank Fuel Pumps on a custom Tanks,inc mounting plate. Each one controlled by a toggle switch.

The idea being that IF one 255 liter/hr pumps gave up, I turn it off and turn on the other 255 liter/hr fuel pump. Street car only needs one 255 liter per hr pump for cruising on trips across Michigan.

Each fuel line has a "One Way" check valve so no flow back thru the pump that is "off".

Bonneville Salt Flats car has a similar system but 400 liter plus EFI pumps that would be supplying the fuel for the runs, (both being on during the runs).

Tom V

[Tom Vaught]

I use TWO of the Walbro 255 liter per hour In Tank Fuel Pumps on a custom Tanks,inc mounting plate. Each one controlled by a toggle switch.

The idea being that IF one 255 liter/hr pumps gave up, I turn it off and turn on the other 255 liter/hr fuel pump. Street car only needs one 255 liter per hr pump for cruising on trips across Michigan.

Each fuel line has a "One Way" check valve so no flow back thru the pump that is "off".

Bonneville Salt Flats car has a similar system but 400 liter plus EFI pumps that would be supplying the fuel for the runs, (both being on during the runs).

Tom V

Do the best job you can on the fuel system of your cars.

[Sun Tuned]

Try this…