[66 joe]

HELP, Ive got this real high pitched squeal coming from my trans (t-400) / torq convrtr.
Newly re-built 455, and t-400 has less that 1000miles since rebuild.
New 2500 converter. Possible mistake number 1, I didnt change trans fluid.
I did put 1 qt of new ATF into torq covrtr before install, and had to add 3/4 more to
get good level. Clicked converter down 3 clicks and spun it freely. Following convertr directions, I did install some (1) washer between flex plate and converter, because space was greater that 3/8.
When I start motor, at low rpm, I get this weird, high pitch squeal. If I gun it, it goes away. Then it will be intermiten. Thought it was belts, but I isolated noise to under car near trans/ converter.
Hope somebody knows,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, thanx, Joe

[David Jones]

I'd bet pump.

[BruceWilkie]

Take the washers out and see if it goes away. If it does that was your noise. From past experience it would then be wise to at least inspect your pump. I made that mistake 30 years ago, Metal flake red trans fluid may look pretty but your trans wont like it much.

[66 joe]

I will try removing washers,,, and if noise goes away (hopefully), Ill change out atf.
Where is the trans pump located at? And 1 note, Before new flexplate and coverter, trans. never made a sound.

[461-69bird]

Joe

something else to think about, could it be your thrust bearing?
I had this problem with the exact same noise, when I put a newly rebuilt th400 on my new engine. the line pressure was pushing the converter forwards. modified the pump feed in the th400 and it seems to have worked. if you do a search, there is a post by Cliff explaining how to do the modification.
Not saying this is definitely the problem, but it was mine.

Rick

[66 joe]

The only thing I did different from last motor, was install some washers between new convrt and new flex plate. And that was following directions from convrt to remove excess space between them to within there specs.
This stuff about thrust bearing, pumps is scaring me, I dont know anything about transmissions!! Thanks

[BruceWilkie]

The outer hub on the convertor drives your trans pump. Too deep and it takes up all the end play in the pump. It also tends to load the main thrust bearing in the engine. If the noise doesnt change when you remove the washers you may be better off seeking someone with a lift to help try to pin point where your noise is coming from. Curious as to how much spacer you put between flexplate and convertor.

[66 joe]

I used a some hardened washers I had. No more than 1/8" thick

[wheelspin]

Hi Joe,

Any fresh news on your problem? Did you discuss this w/ Ace, or try your original 'verter?

Les

[66 joe]

Unfortanetly, wont be able to get under the car till this weekend.
Ace advsd to try without washers. So Im going to cross my fingers and
say a prayer and remove the washers on Sat. I looked at my converter instructions
again last night, (transmission specialties) and they advs to washer any space greater that 3/8. Space between converter tabs and flywheel should be 1/8-3/8 (they claim)
I added one 1/8" washer to each tab (3) (talk to u 12/19 LES)
Thx for all the replies,,,, CANT WAIT TO FEEL THE TORQUE OF THIS 455!!! - Joe

[SWEETJUDGE]

starters not hanging up is it?

[66 joe]

no, I dont think so. Starter is a whole other issue, that I was going to start another post.
It is a newer mini starter, and I just reinstalled it with same shims. Issue is, when I start car, there is a turn, then momentary pause with starter. Never did it with prev 389 motor. good 2 gauge ca to starter and strong battery. good ground strap on motor.

[TTS]

If the transmission has 6 bolts installed with dowels in place the converter should turn free with 1/8-3/16" clearance 1/4" max, 3/8" is a bit much. Since the pump fore/aft clearance shouldn't exceed .002" there is little possibility of the converter damaging a pump with too little converter to flywheel clearance.

If your torque converter balloons enough to cause thrust bearing failure, you have too much Line pressure or a POS converter. Reducing converter feed (transmission lube oil) to reduce ballooning is a fix for the symptom, not the problem.

[TTS]

Forgot to mention, that sounds like a starter hanging in the flywheel.

[66 joe]

when we say "starter hanging" does that mean the gear isnt dropping back???
Ive kind of eliminated the starter cause the problem is so intermittent.
And if the starter is staying engaged, does that just mean more shims??
Ill have to check it out better, wont be difficult, cause problem comes with motor idiling in driveway at about 600-700rpms THX!

[jamaca85]

this sounds off but maybe... you bent the flywheel installing the converter bolts,,,, you may have bent the flywheel just enough that it hits the starter.... or check the clearance on the bolts and the block, they might be sticking out too far. rubbing on the rear of the block

[TTS]

Yes, I mean the starter teeth stick in the flywheel intermittently/ or full time. So when the engine starts, the starter is spinning along with it. You will typically shim the starter away to eliminate the problem.

[se428bandit]

Is it a cheap converter,back years ago i use a GER conv and right before the trans went south because the conv coming apart it had a whining sound like a supercharger or a powerglide sound.

[TTS]

Originally Posted by TTS

If the transmission has 6 bolts installed with dowels in place the converter should turn free with 1/8-3/16" clearance 1/4" max, 3/8" is a bit much. Since the pump fore/aft clearance shouldn't exceed .002" there is little possibility of the converter damaging a pump with too little converter to flywheel clearance.

If your torque converter balloons enough to cause thrust bearing failure, you have too much Line pressure or a POS converter. Reducing converter feed (transmission lube oil) to reduce ballooning is a fix for the symptom, not the problem.

Is it a cheap converter,back years ago i use a GER conv and right before the trans went south because the conv coming apart it had a whining sound like a supercharger or a powerglide sound

Already covered

[form406]

typically with new ministarters on automatics the starter must be shimmed horizontally forward..before you remove washers, remove flywheel cover and look at front of flywheel teeth to see if there are signs of fresh contact...i marked the front of my flywheel teeth with a fat magic marker for signs of front contact...i also disconnected coil and looked if the gear hangs up as well...also had a friend look at a 1'X1' piece of mirror (safety glasses) with a bright light with the car jacked up a bit to see if he could "see" the sound...i also compared the distance of where the starter gear started and ended while starting to a stock starter and they are WAAAY different geomertries...