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#21
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You'll get more accurate fueling with one.
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#22
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I’m using the holley 59.5 psi filter/regulator. Same concept but a beefier package to the oem type pumps.
Lots of horror stories about the factory c5 type regulators getting overpowered by more powerful fuel pumps. I have a 400 lph pump.
__________________
1967 Firebird 462 580hp/590ftlbs 1962 Pontiac Catalina Safari Swapped in Turd of an Olds 455 Owner/Creator Catfish Motorsports https://www.youtube.com/@CatfishMotorsports |
#23
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It's not overly difficult these days to make 500hp or more with most any brand engine with just bolt on parts. In which case I would not recommend the corvette style filter/regulator. It would be time to step up to a good size feed and return, with a good regulator, preferably close to the engine, and a big enough pump capable of supplying the HP being made. |
#24
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In the end, what will F.I. give you over a good carb .
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#25
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EVERYTHING, EVERYTIME!!!!...lol
My reason for going efi was the 041 cam in my 10.5:1 iron headed 400! and i LOVE q-jets. When it was a daily driver,,,,you would spend the first 5 minutes pat, pat, pat on the gas so it would stay running, then (due to the fine tuning required to run too much compression with iron heads) depending on if is "wet" outside as to how bad it ran. The EFI allowed ME to put enough in it when its cold that it would actually stay running.....AND not be loaded up when it its warm. I could also INFINITELY adjust the AFR to the cylinders a little wet (not pig RICH) while "cruising" at low throttle. Something else for the OP.....most stuff has been mentioned; however, one other point to make about EFI is your charging system MUST BE AWESOME!! rock solid voltage is a MUST for efi to perform correctly. So if you have NOT upgraded to at least a cs130 or 144.....this would be the time. |
#26
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They want $40 for the mounting rings. Im trying to figure out a good way to do it cheaper. Right now I have rubber P clamps around the line on either end. But I dont like it long term.
__________________
1967 Firebird 462 580hp/590ftlbs 1962 Pontiac Catalina Safari Swapped in Turd of an Olds 455 Owner/Creator Catfish Motorsports https://www.youtube.com/@CatfishMotorsports |
#27
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If you're good with a carb and know the ins and outs, not all that much if you stick with the throttle body EFI's.
I'm still a carb guy at heart and decades of playing with them I've learned a lot. What a lot of people find funny is that our 2 daily drivers are still carb, one Holley and one Q-jet, and they do everything perfectly. I only have the EFI stuff on the cars we play with. The throttle body EFI's are okay. It's nice to be able to go in and pick an AFR you want for a particular cell and fine tune different areas of throttle and rpm. It's more difficult to do that with a carb and gets time consuming but it's doable, just not as precise. Probably the best thing I like about EFI is the self tuning and it's ability to sense and adjust for elevation changes. That's what really sold me on the throttle body EFI. We deal with so much elevation change here that you really just have to find a happy spot with the carb and leave it. The EFI keeps that AFR pretty steady no matter where I'm at. Nice when we go to the track that's near sea level and most of our driving is a mile up. Other than that there really isn't a big difference over a carb. The multi port fuel injection systems have more advantages over a throttle body unit. Better fuel shot right at the back of the valve is one. The ability to tune individual cylinders is another big one that I like. It just depends on what you're looking for and what you're willing to dive into. |
#28
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I use Chris at EFI System Pro for all the EFI stuff we have. Bought both Sniper units from him and all the add on goodies as well. He has treated me good and gave me discounts for buying multiple units at once. He's been a big help in the tuning aspect of things as well and has been excellent support. Way better than dealing with Holley directly. On that filter regulator combo, I haven't found a cheap way to do this stuff, lol. On the regulators, I always use the 13301 Aeromotive regulator because it does 2 things I wanted. It's vacuum referenced and that comes in handy if you really get heavy into tuning the system, and it also has the ability to switch back and forth from carb pressure to EFI pressure with a swap of the spring. I've used it for years with a carb before the EFI switch so that part was easy. The filter deal, I've struggled with options there for a while and eventually settled on this..... https://www.amazon.com/RUSSELL-65013.../dp/B0014BDEGG Not necessarily this particular one but it's this style. They open up and have a stainless mesh screen that can be cleaned and reused, and you can change the micron ratings by swapping the screen if you wish (finer micron for EFI) They are alcohol compatible and they flow enough to support 1000 hp, also come in -6 and -8 sizes and probably larger. Best part is they are only ~$25 and you never have to buy another filter again. |
#29
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But I'm guessing it has a lot to do with wiring, isolating everything properly and having good grounds. |
#30
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I thought the filter/regulator was actually pretty fairly priced at 120 for the cast unit. Its the $40 for mounting brackets that I balk at. I havent bought the hyperspark stuff yet to control timing. Chris told me that if the car runs well now, Holley actually recommends you get the EFI up and going with your current ignition setup. One less thing that can go wrong during initial startup. You dont have to remove the distributor, you know the timing is right etc. After you get the EFI going then you can swap in the spark control items.
__________________
1967 Firebird 462 580hp/590ftlbs 1962 Pontiac Catalina Safari Swapped in Turd of an Olds 455 Owner/Creator Catfish Motorsports https://www.youtube.com/@CatfishMotorsports |
#31
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That is exactly correct about the ignition side of things. I've done the exact same thing on both cars here. Got the EFI systems on both cars first. Both cars have rock solid MSD setups that have been flawless for over 20 years, with boxes etc.... that I just didn't want to mess with. So I put the EFI systems on both cars, very straight forward install, and left the ignition systems alone. The plan was to eventually convert them both over to control ignition with the EFI unit. The MSD's are capable as is by just locking out the distributor and swapping a few wires around so I don't necessarily have to buy anything on the ignition side to make it work. Funny thing is after over a year on both cars I haven't changed either one. They both run so well as is I'm just not sure at this point if I should, or will, change the ignition. |
#32
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#33
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You really shouldn't use compression fittings on anything on a car. If this is something you really want you can use flare fittings instead. Just a suggestion...
__________________
1978 Black & Gold T/A [complete 70 Ram Air III (carb to pan) PQ and 12 bolt], fully loaded, deluxe, WS6, T-Top car - 1972 Formula 455HO Ram Air numbers matching Julep Green - 1971 T/A 455, 320 CFM Eheads, RP cam, Doug's headers, Fuel injection, TKX 5 Spd. 12 Bolt 3.73, 4 wheel disc. All A/C cars |
#34
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This is a shot of the Vette filter mounted. As Frankie notes, compression fitting have no place in high pressure fuel lines. I used a flare tool to bubble the ends of the hardline and used high pressure clamps for lines under pressure. The vent lines get normal screw type clamps. Much cheaper than AN fittings!
The snap-lock elbows are Dorman units. |
#35
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Or brake lines...They are not SAE approved for anything.
__________________
1978 Black & Gold T/A [complete 70 Ram Air III (carb to pan) PQ and 12 bolt], fully loaded, deluxe, WS6, T-Top car - 1972 Formula 455HO Ram Air numbers matching Julep Green - 1971 T/A 455, 320 CFM Eheads, RP cam, Doug's headers, Fuel injection, TKX 5 Spd. 12 Bolt 3.73, 4 wheel disc. All A/C cars |
#36
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__________________
Triple Black 1971 GTO |
#37
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One large pool of real life experiences, if you have local car shows like I do, to visit, walk around, yak it up with others there and get their experiences.
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#38
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The kid who who is going to help do this install, his dad does these installs all the time for Midwest Musclecars in Lake Zurich, IL. He uses the Sniper or Tanks, Inc. unit with the 255Lph pump or the supplied inline pump on Sniper and Fitech converted BBC applications and LS swaps of 500+Hp with no issues. He only uses the larger capacity pumps and filters for multiple throttle body applications or high HP/race applications with higher capacity (800-1500 Hp) throttle bodies.
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Triple Black 1971 GTO |
#39
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I got a tanks inc setup from a guy locally who had it in a turbo 67 camaro. So yeah the pump may be overkill, but it’s fine.
I installed my lines in the rear yesterday and removed my Q jet. Removed the old full return line. I’ll attack it harder over the weekend. Had to drop the tank partially to install the lines. Word of advice for anyone doing an in tank pump. They are awesome. Totally the way to go, but install a trap door in the trunk to be able to reach the lines and service the pump if necessary. If I ever take it all the way out again I’ll do that. Wasn’t about to fire up the cutting wheel over a 3/4 full tank though.
__________________
1967 Firebird 462 580hp/590ftlbs 1962 Pontiac Catalina Safari Swapped in Turd of an Olds 455 Owner/Creator Catfish Motorsports https://www.youtube.com/@CatfishMotorsports |
#40
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__________________
Triple Black 1971 GTO |
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