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  #381  
Old 08-22-2023, 04:39 PM
Stan65 Stan65 is offline
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Misticmissle,

I want to “make” a set of Pontiac specific dog bones. Able to accept the round part of the lifter coming out of the bore further while still capturing the flats. Also made for the correct bore spacing to stop the side to side movement of the bone like the fords do.

I already have the “ford” parts.

Thanks,
Stan

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  #382  
Old 08-23-2023, 01:34 AM
Nobuddy Nobuddy is offline
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Perhaps you could cut the Chevy bones and weld with correct spacing? Seems much easier and avoids a lot of unknowns.

Barry

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  #383  
Old 09-09-2023, 03:23 AM
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I got my engine and heads back, not working on the car now, been too busy with other projects, I am going to run it 10-1 or 10.2 -1 depending on the gasket I order from Summit (Cometic). My machine shop guy did about 400$ of work on the heads. He didn't like the seat to valve face alignment, or the difference in height between the intake and exhaust valves,(like the exhaust seats were sunk into the head more than the intakes), and the surface had a little ridge right down the middle of the head where they (Kauffman) made 2 passes, it wasn't much, but these guys really don't like stuff that isn't just about perfect. They CCed the heads, and now they are 84.5CCs, no longer 85.
They also re-balanced the rotating assembly, honed the cylinders, which were a little tight down low. Decked the block, line honed, installed cam bearings, got some rust out of the water jackets, removed a broken easy out/stud in the water pump area, had to heli-coil that. They also gapped the rings, etc.
It's ready for me to start putting it together, but I don't have the time now for a while, I still need the roller rockers, head bolts, and head gaskets, then I can see if I am going to get the later model roller lifter setup to work. It's not about the cost, I want the factory reliability of a newer roller engine, and less weight for the lifters. I will update, but it will probably be over a month before I get anything done.
Frank

  #384  
Old 09-09-2023, 03:39 AM
Franked Franked is offline
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So I posted my last without seeing a whole page there, Stan, I would probably want 2 sets of bones, if you get some done. After reading all the other posts, Maybe I WILL go 10.3 or 10.5 to 1, I had already talked to Kauffman about the CR, and they said lots of the engines are from 10.3 to 1 to 11.5 to 1 more octane on the higher compression.
Will update, I am still thinking of making the ford bones a little thicker, somehow.

  #385  
Old 09-09-2023, 03:12 PM
Stan65 Stan65 is offline
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Frank,

It’s gonna be a slow process. The good news, the block and heads are crack free, and the block is gonna clean up at .035 over. Ordered an Eagle 4.250 rotating assembly. It’s still “supposedly” 3 weeks out. Will then finish home the block.

The bad news, the lead time on parts is ridiculous.

I have been talking to Lee. It sounds like the cam blanks are a long lead time also. I have a dreaded XR276HR I can use as mockup, but without the actual cam I am gonna run, I won’t have an actual base circle to work with.

I talked to the machine shop we use for my work, and they are on board for making them and getting the “hardness” correct.

Thanks for the interest, I’ll keep this thread updated with my progress.

Stan


Last edited by Stan65; 09-09-2023 at 03:12 PM. Reason: Added my name lol
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  #386  
Old 02-09-2024, 12:25 PM
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So after a long wait I have the prototype dog bones made. Hopefully in a few weeks I’ll have more info. Not sure what costs will be if I go forward with mass producing some. There are definitely limitations on the lifter to be used, and base circle considerations. They will require careful measuring for each application.

Stan
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  #387  
Old 02-09-2024, 12:39 PM
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Those look nice! Correct spacing for Pontiac's. That notch, for casting clearance? I like the fully enclosed much better than the open ended Ford dogbones. Are these hardened? If not, just curious, what alloy of steel did you whittle these out of? As I said, they look very nice!

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  #388  
Old 02-09-2024, 01:02 PM
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Yes sir. Notch is for casting clearance. Will probably have to grind on the rear passenger bone for additional clearance. Will start test fitting these hopefully this weekend. There is a counter bore also to allow the “round” part of the lifter body to rise above the block casting without raising the bone up.

The material for these is 4140 prehard which has a 32RC hardness. The original small block Chevy bones I tested are 38RC. LS’s are some type of nylon so the wear is the concern more than the strength.

Any opinions or concerns are definitely welcome.

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  #389  
Old 02-09-2024, 02:09 PM
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Stan, let me know when you are ready to produce these. Thanks again.
Tony

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  #390  
Old 02-09-2024, 08:53 PM
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cool...following

  #391  
Old 02-09-2024, 09:57 PM
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In for a set if you produce them.

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  #392  
Old 02-11-2024, 08:29 AM
Stan65 Stan65 is offline
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Here’s a picture of the bones on cylinder’s 7 and 8. I had to modify these as I expected because of the difference in the casting in these locations, but they fit and function as expected.

Not sure of what costs would be. I designed them and had a local machine shop make them.

I designed these to work with one specific lifter, so it would require some research and measuring to adapt them to something else.

Not sure what the price would be to have more made. Hopefully cheaper than this set as the program is now written.
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  #393  
Old 02-11-2024, 09:06 AM
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Stan, I’m definitely interested in a set. I guess the higher the volume, the lower the price break. Looks kinda like the Sealed Power HT2148 lifter? Thanks for supporting the hobby.

  #394  
Old 02-11-2024, 11:03 AM
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So what holds the bone in place?

  #395  
Old 02-11-2024, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowbird View Post
So what holds the bone in place?
Had the same question. Assumption would be that you would still utilize a modified Ford spider.

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  #396  
Old 02-11-2024, 11:24 AM
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I’m still working that out for options, but the fallback will be the modified ford spider.

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  #397  
Old 02-11-2024, 12:11 PM
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So what's the max lift this thing will support?

That's really the deal breaker for me and why I had to ditch the idea of using the factory roller setup on a Gen V BBC and convert it to link bar, it was all finished at .350 lobe lift which meant I couldn't even get a cam in there with more than .600" lift at the valve and that wasn't going to get the job done.

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  #398  
Old 02-11-2024, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Formulajones View Post
So what's the max lift this thing will support?
I don't have the answer, but from another thread from someone that is using them, "To use the HT2148 lifters, cam base circle must be at least 1.135” diameter".

If that is the case, anything less than 1.135" base circle would allow the lifter oil feed hole/band to drop out of the bottom of the lifter bore.

Lifter oil feed hole protruding out of the lifter bore at the top at full lift shouldn't be an issue unless the top of the lifter bore has an excessive chamfer from the factory.

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  #399  
Old 02-11-2024, 01:32 PM
Stan65 Stan65 is offline
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Singleton is correct, most cams have the top of the lobe (max lift) the same height from the cam center line. This is roughly .010” less then the journal diameter. This means no matter what lift cam you have, all lifters will be at the same height at full lift. The lifters drop lower in the bore as the base circle is decreased. The lift is achieved by reducing the base circle. The issue is when the oil band drops out of the bottom of the bore while on the base circle. This is where my comment of careful measurements will be required comes from.

This is just a pet project for myself. The availability of the HT2148 lifter seems to be dwindling. The “replacements” have the oil feed hole in the wrong location and I don’t think they make the original style any longer.

The cam I’m using has .344” lobe lift on both intake and exhaust.

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