[tom s]

I have found just changing from a single plane to a dual plane made a huge diff on streetability of a couple of my engines.AFRs got real stable.My engines with my OD is usually off idle to 2200ish,shift and do it again and again.2000 on the freeways.Did it on my 366 V engine and again on my 455.Same exact 780 vac sec carb. Tom

[i82much]

I have a 10:1 505 with 87 cc e-heads, the old style chamber, 1 7/8 headers, 3.55 gears, and the old faithful cam. It runs fine with either a Torker II or an RPM and an 850 double pumper. I would start just by seeing what cam you have and maybe bump it down to something streetable if it is too big. After that, you probably should be fine.

[Singleton]

Originally Posted by Navy Horn 16

I don't know why you would fool with the exhaust. I'd work from the back forward.. Pick your gears and convertor. Try it out, then see if you need to change your cam.

A nice Q-Jet with a performer RPM will behave really well on the street.

Exactly what I was thinking, why remove the headers and exhaust that's on there? Unless there is ground clearance issues.
Since it already has 4.11 gears, I would be more inclined to go with an overdrive trans rather than change gears.

[taalltheway]

My experience: Go with a small cam and you will be happy. If you want a smooth idle, civilized manners and high torque off idle this is the way to go. 218/224 is perfect. That is what Buick used in their GS 455 stage 1 wich was the fastest production muscle car in 1970. These engineers knew exactly where to draw the line between power and everyday driveabilty. This camsize will make power exactly where you want it. Just buy a standard aftermarket stock converter. The lower the stallspeed the happier you will be. Switch to a dualplane intake. That makes a noticeable difference in engine response. If it fits go for a performer RPM....if it hits the hood go for a Performer or a stock intake. The exhaust can stay because it will not make a noticeable difference in engine response. If it is too loud that is another story.

You may consider going als low as 2,73 on the rear gear if you have no overdrive and use the highway a lot. of no highway a 3.08 is the best compromise. Everything above that will get on your nerves if you are not driving only in the city.

[Johnny99]

Sorry for not responding, took a small vacation with the wife for a few days.

Based on some of your examples I think I know where to go regarding where to go. Once the suspension and brakes are complete I'll move to the convertor. I'll go with a stock unit at first and probably address the exhaust at the same time. They need to come off or at least be unbolted to get the trans down. Not sure what I'll go with there. Right now the 2" headers make it difficult to work on things like the tranny or even the mini-starter. Not sure what brand the headers are but they hang very low and take up quite a bit of room. I'm not even sure how they were installed. It looks like they were formed around the upper control arm.



Since the car is new to me cash to get it streetable is tight. An overdrive trans would be the way to go but it's not in the budget right now. Plus there is a lot more work the car needs.

[ponyakr]

"...Buick...GS 455 stage 1 wich was the fastest production muscle car in 1970..."


Never heard or read that before. Please post a link to articles which support your claim. Thanks !

https://autowise.com/the-7-fastest-cars-of-the-1970s/

https://www.zeroto60times.com/2015/0...c-muscle-cars/

I suppose it would depend on EXACTLY how the cars were equipped & tuned, and who did the testing. Engines like the 426 Hemi & 440 6-pack in small cars like Cuda & Challenger, come to mind. Then there was the bad 454 Chevelle. There was a Boss 429 Mustang. Would be interesting to see legitimate tests of all these cars, equally equipped with the best factory available performance options, & correctly tuned. I'm guessing that some of the cars tested were not really equipped to be the fastest they could be, while the factories sometimes provided specially equipped cars for testing, to show what they could do if equipped & tuned that way.

The only Stage 1 Buick I ever ran across, ran high 13's with sticky tires. He ran C/S. I ran 13.50's with my RA3 '69 GTO, in D/S. At the time, my engine was all original, except for the timing set. Had a little over 60k street miles on it, & 2 seasons of racing. And it only had 3.90 gears. Would have been quicker with the optional 4.33 gears. So, some of the Stage 1 cars may have been fast, But that particular one was definitely not the fastest '70 model production car.

[pastry_chef]

Originally Posted by ponyakr

"...Buick...GS 455 stage 1 wich was the fastest production muscle car in 1970..."

Among 1970 models 3 others were faster.
Hemi Cuda, Chevelle SS454 and Hemi Road Runner.

[HWYSTR455]

Think the Stage 1 was the highest factory rated tq than any other, but it could be argued it was the quickest 1/4. Most tests done were done with the 'regular' 455, since the Stage 1 was difficult to get one's hands on (low and possibly late production).

https://oldcarmemories.com/1970-buic...s-short-reign/

.

[PunchT37]

1`st things to come to mind for me is to lose the 2 inch headers and the gear. Go with 1 3/4 headers maybe 1 7/8. Go with a 3.23 to 3.55 gear. Leave the rest alone for now. See how it behaves. Then, make another move if you don`t like it.

[wovenweb]

Originally Posted by ponyakr

"...Buick...GS 455 stage 1 wich was the fastest production muscle car in 1970..."

Originally Posted by pastry_chef

Among 1970 models 3 others were faster.
Hemi Cuda, Chevelle SS454 and Hemi Road Runner.

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Think the Stage 1 was the highest factory rated tq than any other, but it could be argued it was the quickest 1/4. Most tests done were done with the 'regular' 455, since the Stage 1 was difficult to get one's hands on (low and possibly late production).

I'll just leave this right here:

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/hemi...ick-gs-vs-gtx/

[64speed]

Originally Posted by wovenweb

I'll just leave this right here:

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/hemi...ick-gs-vs-gtx/

I have also read in muscle car review and Hemings muscle machines that the GSX was the car to have in 1970. The only thing that kept Buick from ruling the roost was almost no marketing, very little press, and Buick’s atrocious oiling system tat leads to engine failure if left in stock form. The GSX really was the car to beat. Problem was you couldn’t find anyone to race cause no one had one. BUICK - Best Use Is Corvette Killing

[ponyakr]

"...Think the Stage 1 was the highest factory rated tq than any other..."



They were not "Muscle" cars, but the 1970 Cadillac 500 had a torque rating of 550 ! Hey, that would have been nice in a light body, huh ?

https://www.hemmings.com/magazine/hm...8/3727911.html

We saw a 500 Caddy bracket car, at the div 4 Bracket Finals, at Green Valley Race City, back in the late '70's. It ran mid 11's, if I remember correctly. I do remember that it was a red 2-door.

Guessing there were a lot of these engines raced in lighter bodies.

[Jonsey]

Originally Posted by i82much

I have a 10:1 505 with 87 cc e-heads, the old style chamber, 1 7/8 headers, 3.55 gears, and the old faithful cam. It runs fine with either a Torker II or an RPM and an 850 double pumper. I would start just by seeing what cam you have and maybe bump it down to something streetable if it is too big. After that, you probably should be fine.

I agree with this. I’ve run a torker II for years on my 455. 87 cc round port edlebrock heads. It idles at 800 rpm with a cam very similar to old faithful. A Pontiac 455 has plenty or torque for a street car.

I do understand getting rid of the big tube headers. They can be a pain to work around.