[68lemans462]

I have been running a Mallory 140 pump with an aeromotive return regulator and -8an supply and return lines. RobbMC 1/2" pickup. I have a stock gas tank which I added some internal baffling to and the tank is relatively new.

The Mallory quit on me again and I need a new pump. I would like to move to an in tank pump. I have been looking at the Tanks INC EFI tanks. Also looking at the holley/fitech "retrofit" pumps. Ideally I would like to find a pump I can use with my current tank, regulator, etc. Which pump would meet my needs? Any suggestions are appreciated.

[Formulajones]

That's how I do all the fuel systems, Tanks Inc, in tank pump, a good regulator, and 1/2" feed and return lines.

With that said, you are basically set to run about any in tank pump you desire to support any HP need.

I generally size the pump for the HP the engine is making, and then go up one size for a little cushion.

For comparison sake, the Walbro 255 is a popular choice and will support about 600hp with a carb. So if you're making 500hp it's a solid choice.

You could do a 340 if you want more cushion or maybe plan EFI in the future. As long as you have enough pump, and you use a regulator that is capable of switching back and forth from carb to EFI (like an Aeromotive 13301 for instance) than the switch from carb to EFI is pretty effortless.

It's really up to you and what your power goals are

[GTOLou]

Interested to hear responses - not to steal the thread - but I run a holley inline 75gph (should be close to 300lph) and 8an and a return and it starves worse than a dead-head edelbrock 6an 140gph electric pump.

The holley is a 12-700, supposed to support way over 500hp carbureted.

[Tom Vaught]

I run a pair of the alcohol resistant E-85 Walbro mounted on a custom dual pump cover made by a company on the
southwest side of Chicago. Very high quality work.
Some modification of the factory TANKS,inc gas tank was required.

I use a check valve after each pump going to a "Y" for the feed line to the engine and return regulator.
A Simple 3 terminal Power Switch allows me to continue down the road IF on fuel pump ever had an issue.
Switch to the "left", one fuel pump will receive the power from the charging system. Switch to the "right",
and the OTHER fuel pump does the work and then we continue on down the road. I typically switch between
use both pumps on a trip to keep both of them active during a trip. Left pump on for a 100 miles then
switched to right pump for a hundred miles.

The cover could allow a pair of the new Walbro 525 LPH universal Fuel Pumps: (Gas, E-85, Methanol), not sure about their use with nitro as that has special requirements which Mike and Eric could describe for you.

Tom V.

[Formulajones]

My buddy is running a pair of the Walbro 450's in a Tanks Inc setup for his turbo application. Dual pump setups are pretty slick for the big power adder stuff and at the same time acts as a backup if one should fail.

[Scott Stoneburg]

I spoke to Tanks Inc about a pump/ tank for my firebird.. they wouldn't do a tank because I have a narrowed stock tank, they would not build me a "stock" style tank but narrowed 2" on each side. But did recommend their PA series in tank module pump kits. Several different kits based on power level required.

[AG]

Originally Posted by GTOLou

Interested to hear responses - not to steal the thread - but I run a holley inline 75gph (should be close to 300lph) and 8an and a return and it starves worse than a dead-head edelbrock 6an 140gph electric pump.

The holley is a 12-700, supposed to support way over 500hp carbureted.

I run a Mallory 140 gph deadheaded and run 10.0 without any fuel delivery issues. I know it's not ideal but it works. Next step will be a return regulator and return line.

[68lemans462]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

That's how I do all the fuel systems, Tanks Inc, in tank pump, a good regulator, and 1/2" feed and return lines.

With that said, you are basically set to run about any in tank pump you desire to support any HP need.

I generally size the pump for the HP the engine is making, and then go up one size for a little cushion.

For comparison sake, the Walbro 255 is a popular choice and will support about 600hp with a carb. So if you're making 500hp it's a solid choice.

You could do a 340 if you want more cushion or maybe plan EFI in the future. As long as you have enough pump, and you use a regulator that is capable of switching back and forth from carb to EFI (like an Aeromotive 13301 for instance) than the switch from carb to EFI is pretty effortless.

It's really up to you and what your power goals are

I have pretty much already met my power goals with this car so I shouldnt need too much headroom. I ran a 12.69 at almost 106 last week in the mile high air at Bandimere speedway. Best ever! The current fuel system is getting it done, or it was before my noisy Mallory 140 croaked. This engine probably makes about ~450-500HP/500TQ... I'm using the aeromotive 13301 regulator.

Is there a pump I can use with my existing factory tank (such as Holley sniper or fitech)? A couple years ago I bought a new tank and made a custom sump for it. Do any of the pumps work with the old school lock ring, or do I need to buy the tank/pickup/pump from tanks inc with provisions for the walboro pump? I was thinking of going with the GPA-4 (walboro 255) pump since it is only $20 more than the GPA-2 if I end up buying it from tanks inc...

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by 68lemans462

I have pretty much already met my power goals with this car so I shouldnt need too much headroom. I ran a 12.69 at almost 106 last week in the mile high air at Bandimere speedway. Best ever! The current fuel system is getting it done, or it was before my noisy Mallory 140 croaked. This engine probably makes about ~450-500HP/500TQ... I'm using the aeromotive 13301 regulator.

Is there a pump I can use with my existing factory tank (such as Holley sniper or fitech)? A couple years ago I bought a new tank and made a custom sump for it. Do any of the pumps work with the old school lock ring, or do I need to buy the tank/pickup/pump from tanks inc with provisions for the walboro pump? I was thinking of going with the GPA-4 (walboro 255) pump since it is only $20 more than the GPA-2 if I end up buying it from tanks inc...

There are kits that utilize the stock tank. I think a few on the market now, the first that I had a little experience with was an Aeromotive Stealth unit. It requires some hacking of the stock tank to fit, but without proper baffling the solution was the matting laid down inside the tank, which I'm not a huge fan of. That's what was available at that time. I don't know if they've gotten better because honestly it wasn't long after Tanks Inc started making these stock looking tanks to accept the modules. Before that I had a couple custom tanks made to accept internal fuel pumps and that got even more expensive.

In the end it was just better overall to use a dedicated tank that accepts the pump module as it's own piece with all the proper baffling to make it work as it should. The tanks from Tank Inc aren't too horribly expensive and just made this transition so much cheaper to do. There is however the added expense of using their fuel gauge sending unit so that's about another $90 for the ball float in the tube design. It's a separate piece that bolts in next to the fuel pump.

The GPA-4 pump setup with the 255lph Walbro would be perfect for what you're doing. Should last for many years without issue with OEM type reliability.

I used to run the mallory 140 setup on my Chevelle, and dad ran it on his GTO for probably 20 years. Both cars would run mid 11's with that setup and it worked well enough. My issue with it was replacing brushes in the pump every 4-5 years. I'd just plum wear those pumps out and frankly I got tired of rebuilding them.

Congrats on the best time. That's an 11 second car at a decent track with good air.

[78w72]

looks like some good advice from those that have used intank pumps, but a couple more suggestions to use your current tank- tanks inc makes separate modules that drop into stock tanks, or maybe requires a hole to be cut, i think the module drops into stock location but you need to cut a hole for the sender but would need to confirm that. they have a small baffle around the pump but if one would fit inside your baffle that would be even better. their website shows the separate modules with instructions how to install.

the aeromotive phanton units look pretty nice too, they use a big foam surround as a baffle that is supposed to work pretty well, especially if it will go inside your custom baffle... but their newest design actually has a short run of tube you cut & locate to the rear/side of the tank where fuel goes on launches or hard corners. they claim it cures any starvation issues. heres a video of it working...

https://aeromotiveinc.com/product/ca...antom-340-kit/

[Formulajones]

Looks like they've improved upon it since last time I played with those, but holy cow they are almost $1500 now

[78w72]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

Looks like they've improved upon it since last time I played with those, but holy cow they are almost $1500 now

yeah i didnt notice the price, its went up quite a bit... just like everything else since a certain date... but it is a full kit with a bunch of AN fittings, filters & nice regulator. they offer just the pump/baffle too i think or a smaller size pump, that kit is the 340.

here is the one i was looking at awhile back before deciding to go with tanks inc if/when i convert my robbmc set up, this is a returnless type that has the return in the unit inside the tank, can use any deadhead regulator to adjust psi, its only $500ish but no added hose, just the foam as a baffle. probably be fine for most street use or even drag use if not too fast.

https://aeromotiveinc.com/product/carbureted-phantom/

[OCMDGTO]

Another vote for the Tanks setup. I'm using their 340lph pump, their $100 sending unit, their tank with the cut corners, 8an feed and return. Get a good regulator, I'm using a Weldon now. Really good system, I wish I would have just started with it and saved a LOT of time, $, and aggravation.

[70GS455]

Wonder if you could use a G-body EFI hanger and sender in the A-body tank?

Sent from my SM-T817V using Tapatalk

[ZeGermanHam]

I have a Holley Sniper EFI tank in my '66 GTO, which is just a Tanks, Inc. tank with a Walbro 255 pump sold under the Holley name. I also use the Aeromotive 13301 bypass regulator.

[Ozzmann]

I run one of these, Phantom 200 Stealth Fuel System, faultless after 5-6 years.