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#41
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'Sanding' rear main seals to get a good fit? In this day and age? Come on ,there must be a better product out there, if not someone should be making it. A seal should drop in and be fit and forget.
I seem to remember that a 2 piece Ford Viton lip seal set up was used back in the day? I've got one somewhere in a pile of Pontiac parts I bought a few years back. I also still have half a dozen of the old asbestos type rope seals, maybe I'll try one of those -the Graphite rope seal I last used ,leaked a tiny bit. |
#42
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I've used the BOP 2 piece seal numerous times and I've never had to do anything to make it fit correctly. Went in and fit perfect every time, and never a leak.
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#43
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I think the one piece BOP seals only have issues on blocks that have been align bored. One you cut the cap it shrinks the seal part of it while the main bore is perfectly round. Hard to see a way around it. I have a one piece and a graphite on the way but would rather use the cancer causing stuff. |
#44
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Just to clarify, you don't sand the seal, you sand the crank.
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. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
#45
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both on 1960 389,s . 2 piece viton and one piece both plenty of miles and no leaks
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#46
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Otherwise the crank will sand the seal for you
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#47
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Quote:
Quote:
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#48
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The way I read it, I think they are talking about sanding 2 different things.
One talking about sanding the grooves on the crank, which is how I interpreted that, hence my comment quoting it, and the other is talking about sanding the back side of the 1 piece seal so it fits properly. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Formulajones For This Useful Post: | ||
#49
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Heck, might just sell the one piece, they are 50$. |
#50
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Rear seal choice for the engines I've done here was on a case-by-case basis. For each build I armed myself with a BOP and Best rope seal. I quick "mock-up" with the lip seal to see where it's going to be riding on the serrations on the crank push my decision whether to use it one way or the other.
Some factory cranks have pretty deep serrations and are NOT going to fair well with a lip seal that rides right in the middle of them. Been there a couple of times and ended up pulling those engines back out of the vehicle and going with a rope seal. For aftermarket cranks with a smooth sealing surface the lip seal is the only way to go. Some will need some minor custom fitting but will be 100 percent leak free if installed correctly. To avoid the "hit and miss" deal with stock cranks or any crank with serrations cut in them a correctly installed Best graphite rope seal will do the same. Never had one drop of oil get by one to date. Rest assured here IF you don't mock things up and make sure the lip seal you are installing is riding on a smooth surface some oil is going to get past it.......FWIW......Cliff
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If you can read this, thank a teacher. If you can read this in English, thank a Veteran! https://cliffshighperformance.com/ 73 Ventura, SOLD 455, 3740lbs, 11.30's at 120mph, 1977 Pontiac Q-jet, HO intake, HEI, 10" converter, 3.42 gears, DOT's, 7.20's at 96mph and still WAY under the roll bar rule. Best ET to date 7.18 at 97MPH (1/8th mile), |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Cliff R For This Useful Post: | ||
#51
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Dragncar, I've just checked and have 4 sets of the asbestos seals (I gave one to my nephew), I can spare you one pair - do you want 3/8" thick x 6 1/2" long , or 7/16" x 6 1/4" long? Pm me your address and I'll pop them in an envelope to you, no cost.
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#52
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You have a PM Taff, thanks. I really appreciate it.
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#53
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So refreshing after some of the bickering that has crept into the forum. |
The Following User Says Thank You to PDC For This Useful Post: | ||
#54
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I've had a few Pontiac guys on here help me out ,so I'm always willing to help back if I can.
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#55
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When installing the one piece BOP rear main seal I've heard that after the seal is on the crank before lowering it into the block some guys put a drop of super glue at the parting line and hold it in place until it sets, then continue on with the installation. Also I watched a you tube video of installing this seal and the during the video the guy said to put a small amount of silicone sealant in the the seal groove in the block before installing the seal. Anyone here used either of those techniques?
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Tim Corcoran |
#56
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No I haven't used those techniques. I've installed several and the parting line goes into the block side of the #5 main cap, not in the cap side which will be in the bottom when the motor is oriented correctly. No leaks with out any sealant or crazy glue.
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1967 Firechicken, 499", Edl heads, 262/266@0.050" duration and 0.627"/0.643 lift SR cam, 3.90 gear, 28" tire, 3550#. 10.01@134.3 mph with a 1.45 60'. Still WAY under the rollbar rule. |
#57
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If the seal has been properly fitted there is a bunch of compression pushing the ends together, and as AG said, the joint is at the top. While the anti-rotation holes need to be filled so there isn't a path for oil to get around the seal, additional sealant in the bottom of the groove could make the seal sit unevenly and bow out the lip of the seal on the crank.
I had one engine brought to me that had a lot of oil flow past the 2-piece Viton seal. When it was pulled apart the previous installer must have filled the groove and then pushed the seal in place. Seal was bent out of shape with the inner lip totally distorted.
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Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon in progress. |
#58
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Well this never dawned on me either, so glad I could read it and not live it. Thanks !
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