[15bhardwick]

More pics

[johnta1]

Do you have a pic of your triangulated 4 link?
I take it is not the factory setup?

[Mike S]

I would not preload any bars. Use the top bars to adjust pinion angle and centering the rear end. If you shorten just one upper bar you will pull the rear end off center. Use the lower bar to center the wheel in the wheel well just make sure the lower bars are the same length. Lower the car till the lower bars are almost parallel with the ground. You need some sort of anti roll bar in the rear. A good set of double adjustable shocks will help also.

Make sure your rear end is centered and square with the frame.

I have had a best 60' of 1.29 with factory mounting points.

[15bhardwick]

Originally Posted by johnta1

Do you have a pic of your triangulated 4 link?
I take it is not the factory setup?

Lowers are straight and parallel with the frame. Doesnt angle like the stock mounting location.
Shocks mounted to a crossmember above rear end.

I know an anti roll bar will make it launch level. Will this make it leave straight also?

[15bhardwick]

Originally Posted by 15bhardwick

Lowers are straight and parallel with the frame. Doesnt angle like the stock mounting location.
Shocks mounted to a crossmember above rear end.

I know an anti roll bar will make it launch level. Will this make it leave straight also?

Pics of rear

[sdbob]

I'm not an expert,however I'm thinking one tire is getting more traction and 'driving around the other'. Much like a bulldozer, you tighten one clutch to slow or stop one track the other side drives around it. So is brake tight on one side? Housing flexing,causing tightness? Tires different diameters? Remember you arent the first with this problem and probably wont be the last. I'd try the bags first. Or lower launch rpms to launch car straight, then raise launch rpms until car goes sideways. Take pics as you did.Youll get it right.

[johnta1]

15bhardwick,I have nothing for that setup.



The upper bars look like they would be a hindrence or bind on the suspension.

[lust4speed]

Several years ago I took the car in to a shop for an alignment. Afterwards the car would launch to the right as long as the front wheels were in the air. We put the car on the lift and measured everything and had to agree with the shop that the rear axle appeared to be correct when the triangulation points were used. Once the wheels were back down the car ran dead straight. The fix was to ignore the reference points and simply adjust the link bars bringing the passenger side forward a turn at a time until the car could be launched dead straight. Once the rearend was actually horizontal to the actual body it ran dead straight. Sometimes you just have to make adjustments to what it needs and not what the tape measure says. The rearend was simply pointing the car in the direction the tires were actually facing.

In the meantime I spent a lot of unnecessary money on shocks and such.

[younggto]

15b; that definitely looks fortified. Aftermarket upper A-boxes, triangulation to the crossmember; whose 12-bolt is that with two upper mounting holes? Look at the TRZ ARB made for early A-bodies; mine tucked up forward of the rearend on my 67 GTO nicely. Quality DA rear shocks certainly can’t hurt either if in your budget.

[15bhardwick]

Originally Posted by younggto

15b; that definitely looks fortified. Aftermarket upper A-boxes, triangulation to the crossmember; whose 12-bolt is that with two upper mounting holes? Look at the TRZ ARB made for early A-bodies; mine tucked up forward of the rearend on my 67 GTO nicely. Quality DA rear shocks certainly can’t hurt either if in your budget.

Homemade on the upper control mounting points. Pressed into the stock 12 bolt ears and tig welded. I’ve been looking at the TRZ bar. Did you go with the under axle one or regular one?

[younggto]

Interesting. Regular TRZ bar.

[cgeise]

Originally Posted by 15bhardwick

Can I put preload on a triangulated 4 link with upper passenger bar? Or does that just work for parallel 4 links.

Installed an air bag and put 12 lbs in it. The squat isn’t quite as bad but still goes right. Car had a 1.58 60ft

Is the LF adjustable?? your cross weights are not good , you need more on the right rear -- prob 50 more than the LR -- Never worked with triangulated stuff. adding to LF will pit it on RR.

[cgeise]

BTW If you are running a 12 bolt ot 10 , Make sure the tubes have not come loose in the pumpkin -- and are rotating, that causes all kinds of grief .

[younggto]

Just a reference point; zero personal experience doing this.