Pontiac - Street No question too basic here!

          
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Old 09-08-2008, 07:43 PM
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Default short blocks....

i see the dudes site and others as well and the price is close to 4K retail. especially by the time i have it delivered. i want to buy a short block capable of 550HP for closer to 3K. can it be done ? i dont care if some parts are used they just need to be PROFESSIONALLY installed. i dont even care if it has been run...save me the trouble of breaking it in and the worry if it was done right. i am talking about a stroker with stock crank (or eagle) and good rods/pistons plus the cam and a recomendation on heads. the goal is a MOSTLY street motor that will pass 99% of modern production cars on the road. bottom line is i dont want some ass in a dodge hemi truck taking me off the line at a stop light..........

educate me on the pricing. can an engine builder still make money on a 3K 550HP short block ? or am i going to have to look at used race motors to get my price ? options are cool...what if i supply the cores ? what if i leave off the oil pump, ect ? what about trades ?

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Old 09-08-2008, 10:58 PM
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i just came across this on racing junk and thought about this post.... they have peaked my interest...

http://www.racingjunk.com/post/12828...ORT-BLOCK.html

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Old 09-08-2008, 11:07 PM
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looks like this is there website....has anyone heard of these guys???

http://www.enrracing.com/

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66 GTO clone, 467 cubic inches of Turbocharged Multiport Fuel Injected fury twisting a TH400 into 3.90's wrapped in a 12 bolt posi.

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  #4  
Old 09-09-2008, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve View Post
just need to be PROFESSIONALLY installed. i dont even care if it has been run...save me the trouble of breaking it in and the worry if it was done right.
Have you priced out every little thing between Dudes and this other shops offering (which have value)?

Kens offers (not listed on other's build)...

** Select 400 2-bolt block w/ the Dude's conversion 455/400Main bearing kit
** Block & Lifer bore area deburred.
** Bottom hard filled below center freeze plug.
** ARP Main stud kit
** B.O.P. Viton or the NEW graphite rear main seal.

I don't see these items listed in that other shops build. Maybe you don't want block fill, or main studs (Ken would probably work with you though and get the $ down a little).....but maybe he suggests them so he can offer a better guarantee to his customers (stronger final product).

But the main thing is "is it done right"? Ken definately has a history here (as do others) and a rep to uphold here (as do others) and would be more likely to "do you right" if problems arise.

I don't see where the Eagle crank had is thrust surface prepped on that racing junk link......its my understanding that is critical on those. If that is needed but overlooked, that'd be a reason to turn away.........

If you could supply cores, might cost your more or less..........especially if you have to ship these large heavy items out of state, and back again. And if you junkyard shop, you may get a cracked lemon and lose out on time, cost of block, and magging cost.....(risk everywhere).....vs. whatever Ken or anyone else has "priced in" to their build (probably not that much)

Just seems that extra grand can be accounted for and likely justified, and is not ALL incremental $gravy in another builders pocket. One way or the other, you get what you pay for. At a quick read, sounds like with the racing junk post you get a $1700 balanced rotating assembly (like sold at SD), and all parts installed in a block with machining and assembly worth 1100 or so (but is it done right is still in the air?). Plus shipping.....

I am like you, trying to get the most for my $, and have priced out builds many many different ways, trying to beat the system (my core with local machine assy., rotating assy from here or there...)......only way it seems savings can found are by saving on shipping (building locally)......everything else seems to come out to close to the same (going rates for machining/assy.) at known competent shops.

Lastly, even if the $1K difference was all attributed to builder reputation and your ability to not grit your teeth and worry when you are hammering on you throttle, is that too high?? If is too high, then what is the premium/warranty worth???

  #5  
Old 09-09-2008, 02:24 PM
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thanks for the input. i am talking to Mr. Pbody beacuse of his sterling reputation and proximity to philly. spotts is closer but too busy (or at least very hard to get a hold of). i had come to that conclusion as well about shipping. dont want to pay 10-20% of the build cost to the frieght company.

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  #6  
Old 09-09-2008, 03:46 PM
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Default P-body

P-body seems super cool, and his feedback and advice sounds like someone cool to work with (and the work posted by him on his own car always looks top notch/detailed). I had gotten some parts from Spotts, really nice people as well (think I talked to his wife on the phone).

Sounds like you have some good options fairly close by! Shipping $ux, and they keep adding surcharges, and "rural" delivery fees etc......And on a block, you'd have to crate it and pray some dip$h!t doesn't ram a forklift thru it.

Always nice to deal with people face to face if at all possible anyway.

  #7  
Old 09-09-2008, 04:24 PM
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You could always buy my short block.

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  #8  
Old 09-09-2008, 04:30 PM
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speak up---what you got ?

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