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PLAY400 · 02-05-2002, 04:45 PM

The 400 fits in my 88 bird but I must move the oil filter. I was thinking of getting a plate/adaptor made with 2- 45 degree fitting coming off it to replace the oil filter adaptor on the motor. I was thinking about mounting the filter on the firewall where the heater assembly was. Looking at my setup I don't think I have the room to use the stock oil filter adaptor with a filter relocation kit. I was also thinking of using this type of setup in my 68 Bird. Any problems with my thinking?

Alan

PLAY400 · 02-05-2002, 04:45 PM

The 400 fits in my 88 bird but I must move the oil filter. I was thinking of getting a plate/adaptor made with 2- 45 degree fitting coming off it to replace the oil filter adaptor on the motor. I was thinking about mounting the filter on the firewall where the heater assembly was. Looking at my setup I don't think I have the room to use the stock oil filter adaptor with a filter relocation kit. I was also thinking of using this type of setup in my 68 Bird. Any problems with my thinking?

Alan

Goatman · 02-05-2002, 04:55 PM

You could just tap the block and run your fittings right from the block instead of using an adapter.

Half-Inch Stud · 02-05-2002, 04:58 PM

Just do it.

My 69 Firebird oil filter sits on the Passenger inner fenderwell. Pretty easy to change.

Be sure to keep the In/Out hoses correct with the filter in/out. My Delco filter features a one-way valve to stop backflow...that means no flow if the hoses are swapped.

H.I. Stud

PLAY400 · 02-05-2002, 05:55 PM

I was thinking about tapping the block but I thought that I would have to use fittings with a smaller ID which I thought could reduce flow. I was going to use fittings that had the same ID as the ports on the block. Or should I use slightly larger fittings?

Alan

Goatman · 02-05-2002, 06:14 PM

Go with slightly larger ones. I see that they now have "wide mouth" fittings for fuel pumps and oil systems. Use those as thier inner diameter is sure to be enlarged.

larry davis · 02-05-2002, 07:50 PM

I assume you are going to remove, strip, & clean the block after you tap it?

Don't even think of not doing it! You'll be sorry.

PLAY400 · 02-06-2002, 10:18 AM

Thanks for the input. Since the motor is going to be variable in my case I will be making a bolt on adaptor. should make engine swaps easier.

Alan

WARPed · 02-07-2002, 02:42 AM

Make sure you use #10 lines and full flow fittings, no angled adapters stuff, example: #10 45degree to ½ pipe fittings. Any adapting is done with straight adapters only. This will cost more but it will be done right, the first time. Doing it any other way is a false economy and the Fram commercial pay me now or pay me later applies. BTW, dont use Fram filters, nice commercial, crappy filters nowadays.

PLAY400 · 02-07-2002, 10:31 AM

Hey WARPed, am I to make all my bends with just the hoses? I don't think I have enough room to come straight out of the block and make a graceful bend up. Frame is right there on the 88. I assume no hard bends are allowed with the hose. I was hoping that I could use 45 degree fitting on the block and filter adaptors

Alan

Cobrabill · 02-07-2002, 12:27 PM

Check out www.cmfilters.com

WARPed · 02-08-2002, 09:22 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by PLAY400:
Hey WARPed, am I to make all my bends with just the hoses? I don't think I have enough room to come straight out of the block and make a graceful bend up. Frame is right there on the 88. I assume no hard bends are allowed with the hose. I was hoping that I could use 45 degree fitting on the block and filter adaptors

Alan<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

What I mean is do not make your turns with an adapter. Look in Jegs and you will see flare-to-pipe adapters, you would not use say part (Russell #s)#799-660970 to do the job. You would use a #799-660500 (straight) to the block side and then use a 45 hose end #799-610110 to make the turn.

Maniac · 02-11-2002, 05:04 PM

I bought an oil filter relocation kit and couldn't stop the hoses from leaking. No matter how snug I got the hose clamps, both tubes leaked frequently from the end closes to the engine. My dad's friend recommended that I go have a hydraulics shop make me a pair of crimped hoses set up to handle 80lbs of line pressure. Said that would stop the problem. I ended up putting the original oil filter setup on since I'm planning on selling the car and didn't want to mess with it anymore.

PLAY400 · 02-12-2002, 01:34 PM

Hmmm Is there any reason I can't use 1/2" hydraulic hoses and fittings?

Alan

WARPed · 02-13-2002, 03:04 PM

If you are going to run the car at the track (NHRA or IHRA), and they see that setup they are not going to let you play.

Jack Blum · 02-14-2002, 02:11 AM

I bought the relocation kit as well, tossed the rubber hoses and 2 cent clamps in the trash, and as much as I hate the stuff, I used steel braid with #8AN to the filter (HP1 which are nice because you don't have to special order them} up to a cooler then back into the motor. I wanted a cooler for our 150 mph 90 mile runs in the 110 degree dessert. Works great, ran about 3 degrees cooler at 145mph than it did last time. Now I am also using the 80psi oil pump. I don't know what the pressure drop is but I have not had any measurable drop at the gauge. I also used an inside flaring (20 degree taper) tool to bore out the AN fittings and remove the 90 degree angles.

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